JAPAN PICS
Nagano City, Nagano
長野県長野市
Table of Contents

  JR Nagano Station (長野駅)
  Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple (定額山 善光寺)
  Saijyo-zan Hill (妻女山)
  Battles of Kawanakajima (川中島の戦い)
  Doai-bashi Bridge (胴合橋)
  Tenkyu-ji Temple (典厩寺)
  Nakamura Apple Farm (中村農園)
  "Toge-no-Kama-meshi" (「峠の釜めし」)
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Nagano City, Nagano
18 November 2007

  Nagano City is located in the central part of Nagano Prefecture.  It has the prefectural seat of Nagano Prefecture, situated in the northern part of the prefecture near the junction of the Chikuma River (千曲川) and the Sai River (犀川).  Nagano is most famous for Zenko-ji Temple (善光寺), a 7th-century Buddhist temple which overlooks the city.
  Since the foundation (moving) of the Zenko-ji Temple in AD 642 (or 644), this area had developed as its temple town.  Just before the Battles of Kawanakajima (川中島の戦い, 1553-1564) between Shingen Takeda (武田信玄, 1521-1573)'s army and Kenshin Uesugi (上杉 謙信, 1530-1578)'s army, the famous tactician Kansuke Yamamoto (山本勘助, c.1493-c.1561) built a fort/castle named Kaizu-jo (海津城) for Shingen Takeda's troops in 1650 for preparing the battles.  After the decline of the Takeda clan, many lords owned this castle in turn until Nobuyuki Sanada (真田 信之, 1566-1658) came to Matsushiro to rule this area in 1622.  Since then, the Sanada clan owned Kaizu-jo Castle (renamed as Matsushiro Castle [松代城] in 1711) until the Meiji Restoration (明治維新) in 1867.
  In 1889, Nagano Town (長野町) was born and promoted to Nagano City (長野市) in 1897.  In 1966 Matsushiro Town (松代町) and Nagano City merged to form the new Nagano City.  . The total land area is 730.83 sq. km and the population of 378,035 (October 1, 2007).
  The historic site of the Battles of Kawanakajima (川中島の戦い) has been retained as parkland, with a municipal museum of the history of the Zenkoji Plain (善光寺平).  Matsushiro-cho (松代町), the former castle town of the Sanada clan (真田氏), is located in the southern part of the city.  The town retains an historical atmosphere, preserving many old samurai residences, temples, and gardens of the feudal period, including the remains of the castle and mansion of the feudal lord Sanada family.  Sporting venues built for the XVIII Winter Olympics 1998 include the M-Wave speed-skating arena (with the world's largest wooden suspension roof), Big Hat Arena, and the Aqua Wing Arena.  To north of the city is Iizuna Village (飯塚村).  A popular destination in both summer and winter, it includes an Olympic ski resort, campsite, onsen, 10 ponds, and a mountain slide ride.   Northeast of the city is Japan's largest ski resort, Shiga Kogen (志賀高原), with the nearby Jigokudani Monkey Park (地獄谷野猿公苑), famous for the wild Japanese Snow Monkeys (ユキサル) often found bathing in its hot springs.


  For further information of Shingen Takeda and the Battles of Kawanakajima, go to the Kofu page.

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JR Nagano Station
     
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(Sunday 18 November) JR Nagano Station (長野駅), Kurita, Nagano City (長野市大字栗田) is the largest railway station of Nagano Prefecture, having nine platforms for nine lines including Shinkansen (the Japanese super express train) from JR Tokyo Station.  It had a temple-style building (仏閣駅舎) until 1996 when the station was reconstructed in modern style for Hokuriku [Nagano] Shinkansen line.  Currently this station is the terminal of Hokuriku Shinkansen.
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(Sunday 18 November) The memorial poster of hosting Nagano Olympic Games (the XVIII Winter Olympics 1998), JR Nagano Station
  
     
Zenko-ji Temple
     Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple (定額山 善光寺) or Shinshu Zenko-ji Temple (信州 善光寺), 491 Motoyoshi-cho, Nagano City (長野市元善町491) was reportedly founded by Yoshimitsu Honda (本田 善光) in AD 642.  Honda originally lived in Omi-no-sato (麻績の里; now Zakoji Iida City, Nagano [長野県飯田市座光寺]) and found a Korean [Paekche; 百済] Buddhist image later called "Ikko-Sanzon Amida Nyorai-zo" (一光三尊阿弥陀如来像; the Respected Triad Statues of the Amitabha Buddha Sharing One Halo) in Horie, Naniwa (難波の堀江; now Osaka) in the 10th year of Empress Suiko (推古天皇, 554-628; r.592-628)'s reign or AD 602.  Honda brought it back home in Omi-no-sato and deified it on the "usu" (臼; mortar) which began to shine radiantly.  Thus he remodeled his house as a temple called Zako-ji Temple (座光寺).  At the 35th Empress Kogyoku (第35代 皇極天皇/第37代 斉明天皇, 594-661; r.642-645/655-661)'s order, the image was moved to the present site which was then called "Imoi-no-sato" (芋井の里) in 642.  The present nagano City (長野市) had initially developed as the temple town.   Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple belongs to any particular sect of Buddhism since the foundation in the 4th year of the 35th Empress Kogyoku-tenno's first reign or AD 644.  (The 35th Empress Kogyoku and the 37th Empress Saimei were the same person.)  However, this temple was treated as the "Bekkaku-honzan" (別格本山; an extra-status [associate head] temple) of the Tendai-shu sect (天台宗) and the Jodo-shu sect (浄土宗) of Buddhism.  It is because this temple was founded before Japanese Buddhism disparted into numerous sects.  The whole temple is divided into two sects and organized: The "Daikanjin" (大勧進) and its 25 halls (25院) belonging to the Tendai-shu sect, and The "Daihongan" Nunnery (大本願 [尼寺]) and its 14 halls (14坊) belonging to the Jodo-shu sect.
  This temple has four gates, each of which has a temple building: This system is called "Shimon-Shigaku" (四門四額).  The East Gate (東門) is called Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple (定額山 善光寺), the South Gate (南門) is called Nanmyo-san Muryojyu-ji Temple (南命山 無量寿寺), the North Gate (北門) is called Hokuku-san Unjo-ji Temple (北空山 雲上寺), and the West Gate is called Fusha-san Jodo-ji Temple (不捨山 浄土寺).
  The principal image of Zenko-ji Temple is "Ikko-Sanzon Amida Nyorai-zo" (一光三尊阿弥陀如来像; the Respected Triad Statues of the Amitabha Buddha Sharing One Halo), which later became the origin of the Senko-ji Temple Style of the Respected Triad Statues of the Amitabha Buddha which can be seen in many temples across the country.  However, the treasured image has been strictly "private" and even the head priest of the temple cannot directly watch it.
  The main hall (本堂) of the Zenko-ji Temple was designated as a national treasure in March 1953.  With a small amount of donation, you can experience a special tour in the dark down to the ordination platform called "O Kaidan-meguri" (お戒壇巡り).  Tourists go down stairs to descent into the dark under the treasured principal image, feel your way along the dark and winding corridor and find the lucky latch to heaven (極楽の錠前) which is somewhere waist-high on your right.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Nio-mon" (仁王門; the Deva Gate), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  The original Nio-mon gate was burnt down at the earthquake called "Zenko-ji Jishin" (善光寺地震) in the 4th year of Koka (弘化4年) or 1847 and reconstructed in the 1st year of Keio (慶応元年) or AD 1865.  The gate was reburnt down on June 2 in the 24th year of Meiji or 1891 and restored in the 7th year of Taisho or 1918.
  A deva is the guardian deity of a Buddhist temple.  Deva means god in Sanskrit.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Nio-mon" (仁王門; the Deva Gate), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) The right wing of ""Nio-mon" (仁王門; the Deva Gate), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  The two sculptures were made by Koun Takamura (高村光雲, 1852-1934; the father of Kotaro Takamura [高村 光太郎, 1883-1956]) and his disciple Unkai Yonehara (米原雲海, 1869-1925).
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(Sunday 18 November) The left wing of "Nio-mon" (仁王門; the Deva Gate), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  The two sculptures were made by Koun Takamura (高村光雲, 1852-1934; the father of Kotaro Takamura [高村 光太郎, 1883-1956]) and his disciple Unkai Yonehara (米原雲海, 1869-1925).
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(Sunday 18 November) "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) Shaka-do Hall (釈迦堂; Hall of Shakyamuni), Seson-in (世尊院), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  It enshrines "Shaka Nehan-zo" (釈迦涅槃座像; A recumbent image of the Buddha, found in the seaside in Echigo [now Niigata] in 973), "Bishamon-ten" (毘沙門天; God of Victory), one of the Seven Zenko-ji Gods of Good Fortune, Fudo-myo-o (不動明王; Acala; the God of Fire) and "Ikko-Sanzon Amida Nyorai-zo" (一光三尊阿弥陀如来像; the Respected Triad Statues of the Amitabha Buddha Sharing One Halo).
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(Sunday 18 November) Inside of Shaka-do Hall (釈迦堂; Hall of Shakyamuni), Seson-in (世尊院), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  Courtesy of Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) "San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  This is the view from "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Zenko-ji Temple.
  "San-mon" (三門/山門) is the gate of a Zen Buddhist temple, which symbolizes the three gates or three stages for emancipation of souls; "ku-mon" (空門; the first stage of meditation on the non-substantiality of self), "muso-mon" (無相門; the second stage of meditation on the fact that visible phenomena do not really exist, because they are non-substantial, so there are no essential differences among them) and "musaku-mon" (無作門; the third and final stage of meditation on the fact that there is nothing to be desired, because of the unreality of phenomena).
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(Sunday 18 November) San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  This is the view from "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Zenko-ji Temple.  It was built in the third year of Kan-en (寛延3年) or AD 1750 and now under reconstruction.
  "San-mon" (三門/山門) is the gate of a Zen Buddhist temple, which symbolizes the three gates or three stages for emancipation of souls; "ku-mon" (空門; the first stage of meditation on the non-substantiality of self), "muso-mon" (無相門; the second stage of meditation on the fact that visible phenomena do not really exist, because they are non-substantial, so there are no essential differences among them) and "musaku-mon" (無作門; the third and final stage of meditation on the fact that there is nothing to be desired, because of the unreality of phenomena).
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(Sunday 18 November) San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  The Chinese letter "善" looks like a cow, which reminds us of the famous haiku by Issa Kobayashi (小林 一茶, 1763-1827):
  
  春風や (Harukaze ya)
  牛に引かれて (Ushi ni Hikarete)
  善光寺 (Zenko-ji)
  The spring breeze induced
  My cow to take me
  To visit Zenko-ji Temple.
    
  (trans. Eishiro Ito)
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(Sunday 18 November) San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  This is the view from "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Zenko-ji Temple.  It was built in the third year of Kan-en (寛延3年) or AD 1750 and now under reconstruction.
  "San-mon" (三門/山門) is the gate of a Zen Buddhist temple, which symbolizes the three gates or three stages for emancipation of souls; "ku-mon" (空門; the first stage of meditation on the non-substantiality of self), "muso-mon" (無相門; the second stage of meditation on the fact that visible phenomena do not really exist, because they are non-substantial, so there are no essential differences among them) and "musaku-mon" (無作門; the third and final stage of meditation on the fact that there is nothing to be desired, because of the unreality of phenomena).
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(Sunday 18 November) San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  This is the view from "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Zenko-ji Temple.  It was built in the third year of Kan-en (寛延3年) or AD 1750 and now under reconstruction.
  "San-mon" (三門/山門) is the gate of a Zen Buddhist temple, which symbolizes the three gates or three stages for emancipation of souls; "ku-mon" (空門; the first stage of meditation on the non-substantiality of self), "muso-mon" (無相門; the second stage of meditation on the fact that visible phenomena do not really exist, because they are non-substantial, so there are no essential differences among them) and "musaku-mon" (無作門; the third and final stage of meditation on the fact that there is nothing to be desired, because of the unreality of phenomena).
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(Sunday 18 November) San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  This is the view from "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Zenko-ji Temple.  It was built in the third year of Kan-en (寛延3年) or AD 1750 and now under reconstruction.
  "San-mon" (三門/山門) is the gate of a Zen Buddhist temple, which symbolizes the three gates or three stages for emancipation of souls; "ku-mon" (空門; the first stage of meditation on the non-substantiality of self), "muso-mon" (無相門; the second stage of meditation on the fact that visible phenomena do not really exist, because they are non-substantial, so there are no essential differences among them) and "musaku-mon" (無作門; the third and final stage of meditation on the fact that there is nothing to be desired, because of the unreality of phenomena).
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(Sunday 18 November) San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  This is the view from "Nakamise" (仲見世) or shops lining a passageway in the precincts of Zenko-ji Temple.  It was built in the third year of Kan-en (寛延3年) or AD 1750 and now under reconstruction.
  "San-mon" (三門/山門) is the gate of a Zen Buddhist temple, which symbolizes the three gates or three stages for emancipation of souls; "ku-mon" (空門; the first stage of meditation on the non-substantiality of self), "muso-mon" (無相門; the second stage of meditation on the fact that visible phenomena do not really exist, because they are non-substantial, so there are no essential differences among them) and "musaku-mon" (無作門; the third and final stage of meditation on the fact that there is nothing to be desired, because of the unreality of phenomena).
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(Sunday 18 November) Inside of San-mon" (三門; Gate of the Three Buddhist Enlightenments/Three Stages of Buddhist Emancipation), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) "Roku-jizo" (六地蔵; Jizo [Skt. Ksitigarbha-bodhisattva; a guardian deity of children] of the Six States of Existence), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  They are Buddhist psychopomps of the six worlds of Buddhism: heaven, human beings, carnage, breasts, eternally famished devils and hell.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Roku-jizo" (六地蔵; Jizo [Skt. Ksitigarbha-bodhisattva; a guardian deity of children] of the Six States of Existence), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  They are Buddhist psychopomps of the six worlds of Buddhism: heaven, human beings, carnage, breasts, eternally famished devils and hell.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Nure Botoke" (濡仏; Wet Jizo), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  This statue was erected by High Monk Enshin (法誉 円信) in the 7th year of Kyoho (享保7年) or 1722.  The Wet Jizo was built to protect the main hall from fire, because the hall was burnt down 11 times so far.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Sho-ro" (鐘楼; Belfry), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  It was founded in the 6th year of Kaei (嘉永6年) or 1853.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  
  It enshrines the founder Yoshimitsu Honda (本田 善光), his son Yoshisuke (善佐), his wife Yayoi (弥生) and the principal image of Zenko-ji Temple is "Ikko-Sanzon Amida Nyorai-zo" (一光三尊阿弥陀如来像; the Respected Triad Statues of the Amitabha Buddha Sharing One Halo), which later became the origin of the Senko-ji Temple Style of the Respected Triad Statues of the Amitabha Buddha which can be seen in many temples across the country.  However, the treasured image has been strictly "private" and even the head priest of the temple cannot directly watch it.
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(Sunday 18 November) A group photo in front of "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) In front of "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple, viewed from the 2nd parking lot
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(Sunday 18 November) "Rekidai Eko-bashira" (歴代回向柱; the succession of the pillars for memorial service), west part of Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.
  The "Eko-bashira" has been stood on the occasion of "Go Kaicho" (御開帳), the ceremony of exhibiting the Buddhist image called "Maetachi Honzon" (前立本尊; the Second Principal image of Zenko-ji Temple next to the private treasured image) for 56 days every seven years.  Worshippers rush to touch the these old pillars on "Go Kaicho" because it is believed that a touch with the pillar is equivalent to a touch with "Maetachi Honzon."
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(Sunday 18 November) "Rekidai Eko-bashira" (歴代回向柱; the succession of the pillars for memorial service), west part of Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.
  The "Eko-bashira" has been stood on the occasion of "Go Kaicho" (御開帳), the ceremony of exhibiting the Buddhist image called "Maetachi Honzon" (前立本尊; the Second Principal image of Zenko-ji Temple next to the private treasured image) for 56 days every seven years.  Worshippers rush to touch the these old pillars on "Go Kaicho" because it is believed that a touch with the pillar is equivalent to a touch with "Maetachi Honzon."
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(Sunday 18 November) "Rekidai Eko-bashira" (歴代回向柱; the succession of the pillars for memorial service), west part of Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.
  The "Eko-bashira" has been stood on the occasion of "Go Kaicho" (御開帳), the ceremony of exhibiting the Buddhist image called "Maetachi Honzon" (前立本尊; the Second Principal image of Zenko-ji Temple next to the private treasured image) for 56 days every seven years.  Worshippers rush to touch the these old pillars on "Go Kaicho" because it is believed that a touch with the pillar is equivalent to a touch with "Maetachi Honzon."
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(Sunday 18 November) "Kyo-zo" (経蔵; scripture house), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  It keeps numerous Buddhist scriptures including "Issai-kyo" (一切経), which is a collection of all the sacred writings of Buddhism (三蔵; Tripitaka).  However, it is very difficult to read it.  This hall has a spinning-top-shaped stack called "Rinzo" (輪蔵).  People believe that one complete spinning "Rinzo" is equivalent to reading "Issai-kyo."
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(Sunday 18 November) "Kyo-zo" (経蔵; scripture house), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  It keeps numerous Buddhist scriptures including "Issai-kyo" (一切経), which is a collection of all the sacred writings of Buddhism (三蔵; Tripitaka).  However, it is very difficult to read it.  This hall has a spinning-top-shaped stack called "Rinzo" (輪蔵).  People believe that one complete spinning "Rinzo" is equivalent to reading "Issai-kyo."
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(Sunday 18 November) "Rinne-to" (輪廻塔; the stone monument of metempsychosis [Skt. samsara]) in front of "Kyo-zo" (経蔵; scripture house), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  If you spin the wheel of metempsychosis, you can overcome lusts and afflictions.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Fudo-do" (不動堂; Hall of Acala; the God of Fire) of Dai-kanjin (大勧進), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  Another name is "Goma-do" (護摩堂; Hall of Homa), the hall of a holy fire for invocation; the Buddhist rite of burning cedar sticks on the altar.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Mizuko Kannon" (水子観音; Kuan Yin Statue of Miscarriage) of Dai-kanjin (大勧進), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) Mizuko Kannon" (水子観音; Kuan Yin Statue of Miscarriage) of Dai-kanjin (大勧進), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) "Bussoku-seki" (佛足石; Stone of the Gautama Buddha's Footprint), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
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(Sunday 18 November) Statue of Saint Shinran (親鸞上人, 1173-1262), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  Shinran is a disciple of Honen (法然; 1133-1212) and the founder of Jodo-shinshu sect (浄土真宗) of Buddhism .
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(Sunday 18 November) Statue of Saint Shinran (親鸞上人, 1173-1262), Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple.  Shinran is a disciple of Honen (法然; 1133-1212) and the founder of Jodo-shinshu sect (浄土真宗) of Buddhism .
  
     
Saijyo-zan Hill
     Saijyo-zan Hill (妻女山, 411 m) where Kenshin Uesugi (上杉 謙信)'s fort stood during the Fourth (and Hardest) Battle of Kawanakajima in August in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) or 1561.  He had a troop of 13,000 soldiers at that time.  The summit commands a panoramic view of the whole area of Kawanakajima known as "Zenkoji-daira" (善光寺平).
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(Sunday 18 November) Saijyo-zan Hill, viewed from Jogaku-san Zenko-ji Temple
  
     
Battles of Kawanakajima
   The Battles of Kawanakajima (川中島の戦い) were fought in the Age of Civil Wars (戦国時代, 1477/1493-1573) between Shingen Takeda (武田 信玄, 1521-1573) of Kai Province (甲斐国) and Kenshin Uesugi (1530-1578) of Echigo Province (越後国) in the plain of Kawanakajima, in the north of Shinano Province (信濃国), located in the southern part of the present Nagano City.  The five major battles took place in 1553, 1555, 1557, 1561 and 1564.  The best known and severest among them was fought on September 9 in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) [in the lunar calendar, or in the solar calendar on October 17, 1561].  The battles started after Shingen conquered Shinano Province, expelling Yoshiharu Murakami (村上義清, 1501-1473) and Nagatoki Ogasawara (小笠原長時, 1514-1583) who subsequently turned to Kenshin for help.
  In the First Battle of Kawanakajima, also known as the Battle of Fuse (布施の戦い), in the 22nd year of Tembun (天文22年) or 1553, Shingen Takeda penetrated far into the Kawanakajima plain, his vanguard encountering the forces of Kenshin Uesugi at a shrine to Hachiman/Fuse (八幡/布施).  They disengaged, and met up again a few kilometers away, but no decisive battle was fought.
  In the 24th year of Tembun (天文24年) or 1555, the Second Battle of Kawanakajima, also known as the Battle of Saigawa (犀川の戦い), began when Shingen Takeda returned to Kawanakajima, advancing up to the Sai River (犀川).  He made camp on a hill to the south of the river, while Kenshin Uesugi was camped just east of Zenko-ji Temple (善光寺), which provided him an excellent view of the plain.  However, the Kurita clan (栗田氏), allies of the Takeda, held Asahiyama Fortress (旭山城) a few kilometers to the west; they menaced the Uesugi right flank.  KakujuKurita (栗田鶴寿, 1551-1581)'s defenses were bolstered by 3000 Takeda warriors.  Kenshin launched a number of attacks against the Asahiyama Fortress (旭山城), but all were repulsed.  Eventually he moved his army onto the plain, redirecting his attention on Takeda's main force.  However, rather than attacking, both armies waited, for months, for the other to make a move.  Finally, battle was avoided as both leaders retired to deal with domestic affairs in their home provinces.
  The Third Battle, also known as the Battle of Uenohara (上野原の戦い), took place in the 3rd year of Koji (弘治3年) or 1557 when Shingen Takeda captured a fortress called Katsurayama (葛山城), overlooking the Zenko-ji Temple from the northwest.  He then attempted to take Iiyama Castle (飯山城), but withdrew after Kenshin Uesugi led an army out of Zenko-ji Temple.
  The Fourth Battle in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) or 1561, also known as the Battle of Hachimampara (八幡原の戦い), resulted in greater casualties for both sides, as a percentage of total forces, than any other battle in the Age of Civil Wars (戦国時代, 1477/1493-1573), and is one of the most tactically interesting battles of the period as well.  In October of 1561, Uesugi Kenshin left his Kasugayama fortress with 18,000 warriors, determined to destroy Shingen Takeda.  He left some of his forces at Zenko-ji Temple, but took up a position on Saijo-zan Hill (妻女山), a mountain to the west of, and looking down upon, Shingen's Kaizu Castle (海津城).  Unbeknownst to Kenshin, Kaizu Castle (海津城) contained no more than 150 samurai, and their followers, and he had taken them completely by surprise.  However, the general in command of the castle, Masanobu Kosaka (高坂 昌信, 1527-1578), through a system of signal fires, informed his lord, in Tsutsujigasaki Fortress (躑躅ヶ崎館), 130 km away in Kofu, of Kenshin's move.
  Shingen left Kofu (甲府) with 16,000 men, acquiring 4000 more as he traveled through Shinano Province, approaching Kawanakajima on the west bank of the Chikuma River (千曲川), keeping the river between him and Saijo-zan Hill (妻女山).  Neither army made a move, knowing that victory would require the element of surprise, to throw the enemy off-balance; Shingen was allowed into his fortress at Kaizu (海津城).  Along with his legendary "gun-shi" (軍師; army commissioner), Kansuke Yamamoto (山本 勘助, 1493?-1561?), a strategy was conceived.
  Masanobu Kosaka (高坂 昌信, 1527-1578) left Kaizu (海津城) with 8000 men, advancing up Saijo-zan Hill (妻女山) under cover of night, intending to drive Kenshin's army down to the plain where Shingen Takeda would be waiting with another 8000 men in "kaku-yoku" (鶴翼の陣), or "crane's wing," formation.  However, whether via spies in Kaizu (海津城) or scouts looking down from Saijo-zan Hill (妻女山), Kenshin guessed Shingen's intentions, and led his own men down to the plain.  Kenshin descended from Saijo-zan Hill (妻女山) by its western flanks.  Instead of fleeing Masanobu Kosaka (高坂 昌信, 1527-1578)'s dawn attack, Kenshin Uesugi's army crept down the mountain quietly; Using bits of cloth to deaden the noise of the horse's hooves and crossed the Chikuma River (千曲川).  Later Sanyo Rai (頼 山陽, 1780-1832) wrote a Chinese poem titled "Kawanakajima" (「川中島」) in which this scene is described in a solemn tone:「鞭声粛々夜河を渡る」("Bensei Shukushuku Yoru Kawa wo Wataru" [Paying attention to the sounds made by whips, they are crossing the river at night])  As dawn broke, Shingen's men found Kenshin's army ready to charge at them, not fleeing from the mountain.
  Uesugi's forces attacked in waves, in a 'Kuruma-gakari-no-Jin' formation (車懸りの陣), in which every unit is replaced by another as it becomes weary or destroyed.  Leading the Uesugi vanguard was one of Uesugi's 'Twenty-Eight Generals, Kageie Kakizaki (柿崎 景家, 1513-1575).  Kakizaki's unit of mounted samurai clashed into Nobushige Takeda (武田 信繁, 1525-1561; Shingen's younger brother)'s unit; Nobushige died following in fierce hand-to-hand combat.  While the "Kaku-yoku-no-jin" (鶴翼の陣) formation held surprisingly strongly, the Takeda commanders eventually fell, one by one.  Seeing that his pincer operations called "Kitsutsuki-sempo" (啄木鳥戦法; lit. the "woodpecker strategy") had failed, Kansuke Yamamoto (山本 勘助, 1493?-1561?) charged alone into the mass of Uesugi samurai, suffering upwards of 80 bullet wounds before retiring to a nearby hill and committing seppuku (suicide by disembowelment).
  Eventually, the Uesugi forces reached the Takeda command post, and one of the most famous single combats in Japanese history ensued.  Kenshin Uesugi himself burst into the headquarters, attacking Shingen Takeda who, unprepared for such an event, parried with his signaling fan as best as he could, and held Kenshin off long enough for one of his retainers, Masatane Hara (原 昌胤, 1531-1575), to spear Kenshin's mount and drive him off.  The Takeda main body held firm, despite fierce rotating attacks by the Uesugi.  Nobukimi Anayama (穴山 信君, 1541-1582) destroyed Harutoki Shibata (新発田 治時, ?-1587) of Echigo, and forced the Uesugi main force back to the Chikuma River (千曲川).
  Meanwhile, Masanobu Kosaka (高坂 昌信, 1527-1578)'s stealth force reached the top of Saijo-zan Hill (妻女山) and, finding the Uesugi position deserted, hurried down the mountain to the ford, taking the same path they had expected the fleeing Uesugi to take.  After desperate fighting, they punched their way through the 3000 Uesugi warriors defending the ford ( under the command of Uesugi general, Kagemochi Amakazu [甘粕 景持, ?-1604]), and pressed on to aid Takeda's main force.  Masanobu Kosaka (高坂 昌信, 1527-1578)'s force then attacked the retreating Uesugi from the rear.  Shingen Takeda's many great generals including his younger brother Nobushige Takeda (武田 信繁, 1525-1561) and great uncle Murozumi Torasada (諸角 虎定, ?-1561) were killed in the field.
  In the end, the Uesugi army suffered 72% losses, while the Takeda had 62% casualties.  The chronicles seem to indicate that the Takeda made no effort to stop the Uesugi from retreating after the battle, burning the encampment at Saijo-zan Hill (妻女山), returning to Zenko-ji Temple, and then to Echigo Province.
  In the 7th year of Eiroku (永禄7年) or 1564, Shingen and Kenshin met at the Fifth and the Final Battle of kawanakajima, also known as the Battle of Shiozaki (塩崎の対陣).  Their forces skirmished for 60 days, and then both withdrew.  (Quoted edited from "Wikipedia" with additional information)
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(Sunday 18 November) Bus stop "Kawanakajima Kosen-jo" (川中島古戦場; The Ancient Battlefield Kawanakajima), Nagano City.  Kawanakajima is located in the southern suburbs of Nagano City: It is called "Kawanakajima" which means "the land between the [two] rivers."  It is the triangular area between the Sai River (犀川) and the Chikuma River (千曲川) in the Nagano Basin (長野盆地).
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(Sunday 18 November) Signposts of "Kawanakajima Kosenjo" (川中島古戦場; The Ancient Battlefield Kawanakajima), Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park), Nagano-shiritsu Hakubutsu-kan (長野市立博物館; Nagano City Museum), Nagano-shi Rika-Kyoiku center (長野市理科教育センター; Nagano CIty Science Education Center) and a restaurant and a direct sales depot of chicken and farm produce, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Ad for the 2007 special exhibition of the Battles of Kawanakajima at Nagano City Museum, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Ads for the 2007 special exhibition of the Battles of Kawanakajima (left) and the 2007 NHK Taiga-drama Furin Kazan (『風林火山』) (right) at Nagano City Museum Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The figure of the formations at the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima on September 10 in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) [in the lunar calendar, or in the solar calendar on October 17, 1561], Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Signpost of "Shiseki Kawanakajima-kosenjo Hachiman-sha" (史跡川中島古戦場 八幡社; Historic Site Kawanakajima Old Battlefield Hachiman-jinjya Shrine), Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Shrine Gate to Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine (川中島八幡社), Kawanakajima, Nagano City.  The exact fooundation date is unknown but it was built by Akikiyo Murakami (村上 顕清) of the Genji clan (源氏) who was a "kurodo" (蔵人; a palace officer) of Ex-Emperor Shirakawa (白川院; 1053-1129; r.1072-1086) but was exiled from Kyoto for some political struggle during the Kanji Eara (寛治年間, 1087-1094).  After the foundation Murakami named this area Hachimampara after enshrining the God "Hachiman" (八幡; the Japanese God of War).  It enshrines "Hondawake-no-mikoto" (誉田別尊) and "Takeminakata-no-mikoto" (建御名方命).
  At the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima, Shingen Takeda placed the headquarters here and he managed to survive as he prayed for "Hachiman."
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(Sunday 18 November) The sacred 700-year-old "Keyaki" (欅; Zelkova serrata) and the preserved original hall (元宮), Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The sacred 700-year-old "Keyaki" (欅; Zelkova serrata) which witnessed the Battles of Kawanakajima, Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The original hall in the front and the present worshipper's hall (拝殿) in the back, Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The present worshipper's hall (拝殿), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "Sakasa-enjyu (逆槐; The Upside-down Enjyu Tree) with the present worshipper's hall (拝殿) in the background, Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.
  When Shingen Takeda located his forces in Hachimanbara, he built his headquarters here and fortified it with earthen embarkments.  In order to reinforce these embarkments, he used local "enjyu" tree (Japanese pagoda trees) by driving them into the ground with their roots in the air.  It is said that some of the trees formed buds, however, and grew for several hundred years.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Mi-tachi-Nana-tachi-no-Ato" (三太刀七太刀之跡; Three Strikes-Seven Marks ), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.
  On September 9 in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) [in the lunar calendar, or in the solar calendar on October 17, 1561], the most severe battle took place here.  Kenshin Uesugi found Shingen Takeda and attacked him from horseback.  Without time to prepare, Shingen could only defend himself with his "gun-bai" (軍配; the baton of command).  Kenshin struck three times, but Shingen managed to deflect each blow with his fan.
  After the battle was inspected, and it said to have had seven sword marks in it.  Thus this battle memorial is called "Mi-tachi-Nana-tachi," or "Three Strikes-Seven Marks."
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(Sunday 18 November) "Mi-tachi-Nana-tachi-no-Ato" (三太刀七太刀之跡; Three Strikes-Seven Marks ) with "Hai-den" (Worshippers' Hall) in the background, Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Shingen & Kenshin Ikkiuchi-no-zo" (信玄・謙信一騎討ちの像; Statues of Shingen and Kenshin in a Man-to-Man Fight), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.  This is a delineation of their legendary single combat based on Ko-Estu-Shin Sen-roku (『甲越信戦録』(8 vols.), anonymous, Edo [Tokyo], after 1810 ).  Produced and donated to Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine by Yasuhiro Kasuga (春日 靖広), president of Green Stamp, Inc. (グリーンスタンプ株式会社) and Shinki (?) Aoki (青木 神木), president of Aoki Denki, Inc. (青木電気工事株式会社) in the 44th year of Showa or 1969 to commemorate the NHK Taiga drama "Ten to Chi to" (『天と地と』 in 1969).  This is the highlight of the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima in 1561, and this masterpiece conveys both lords' characters; Kenshin is noted for his dauntless courage and energies while Shingen is a self-possessed man even at the crucial moment.
  According to Ko-Estu-Shin Sen-roku (『甲越信戦録』(8 vols.): "Lord Kenshin rode single-handed against Lord Shingen's campstool and cut at him with a three-feet-and-one-point-two-inch Japanese sword (三尺一寸の太刀).  Lord Shingen, remaining at stool, received his attack with the baton of command."  On the other hand, the famous Koyo Gun-kan (『甲陽軍鑑』, reportedly written by Masanobu Kosaka [高坂 昌信, 1527-1568]), the book written for the Takeda clan, notes that Shingen stood up to receive Kenshin's attack from on his horse with the baton of command.  In addition, Kawanakajima Go-Sen-ki (『川中島五戦記』; The Five Battles of Kawanakajima (10 vols.); publication data unknown), the historical record viewed from the Uesugi clan, describes that they fought man-to-man with their swords in the Gohei River (御幣川).   
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(Sunday 18 November) "Shingen & Kenshin Ikkiuchi-no-zo" (信玄・謙信一騎討ちの像; Statues of Shingen and Kenshin in a Man-to-Man Fight), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.  This is a delineation of their legendary single combat based on Ko-Estu-Shin Sen-roku (『甲越信戦録』(8 vols.), anonymous, Edo [Tokyo], after 1810).  Produced and donated to Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine by Yasuhiro Kasuga (春日 靖広), president of Green Stamp, Inc. (グリーンスタンプ株式会社) and Shinki (?) Aoki (青木 神木), president of Aoki Denki, Inc. (青木電気工事株式会社) in the 44th year of Showa or 1969 to commemorate the NHK Taiga drama "Ten to Chi to" (『天と地と』 in 1969).  This is the highlight of the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima in 1561, and this masterpiece conveys both lords' characters; Kenshin is noted for his dauntless courage and energies while Shingen is a self-possessed man even at the crucial moment.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Shingen & Kenshin Ikkiuchi-no-zo" (信玄・謙信一騎討ちの像; Statues of Shingen and Kenshin in a Man-to-Man Fight), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.  This is a delineation of their legendary single combat based on Ko-Estu-Shin Sen-roku (『甲越信戦録』(8 vols.), anonymous, Edo [Tokyo], after 1810 ).  Produced and donated to Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine by Yasuhiro Kasuga (春日 靖広), president of Green Stamp, Inc. (グリーンスタンプ株式会社) and Shinki (?) Aoki (青木 神木), president of Aoki Denki, Inc. (青木電気工事株式会社) in the 44th year of Showa or 1969 to commemorate the NHK Taiga drama "Ten to Chi to" (『天と地と』 in 1969).  This is the highlight of the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima in 1561, and this masterpiece conveys both lords' characters; Kenshin is noted for his dauntless courage and energies while Shingen is a self-possessed man even at the crucial moment.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Shingen & Kenshin Ikkiuchi-no-zo" (信玄・謙信一騎討ちの像; Statues of Shingen and Kenshin in a Man-to-Man Fight), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.  This is a delineation of their legendary single combat based on Ko-Estu-Shin Sen-roku (『甲越信戦録』(8 vols.), anonymous, Edo [Tokyo], after 1810 ).  Produced and donated to Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine by Yasuhiro Kasuga (春日 靖広), president of Green Stamp, Inc. (グリーンスタンプ株式会社) and Shinki (?) Aoki (青木 神木), president of Aoki Denki, Inc. (青木電気工事株式会社) in the 44th year of Showa or 1969 to commemorate the NHK Taiga drama "Ten to Chi to" (『天と地と』 in 1969).  This is the highlight of the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima in 1561, and this masterpiece conveys both lords' characters; Kenshin is noted for his dauntless courage and energies while Shingen is a self-possessed man even at the crucial moment.
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(Sunday 18 November) The stone monument titled "Ryu-Ko" (龍虎) by Shinki(?) Aoki (青木 神木, former president of Aoki Denki, Inc.) dated October 10, 1969, Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "Shunen-no-Ishi" (執念の石; The Rock of Regret), Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.
  During the fierce 30,000 man battle here, known as the Fourth Battle of kawanakajima in 1561, Kenshin Uesugi found Shingen Takeda and attacked him from horseback.  Osumi Hara (原 大隅). who was at Shingen's side, took up his master's spear and attacked the Kenshin on horseback.  Osumi's attack missed but caused Kenshin to flee.  Osumi, whose mistake allowed the enemy leader to escape, was furious with himself.  He drove the spear down upon a neaby rock, which remains to this day.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Shunen-no-Ishi" (執念の石; The Rock of Regret), Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.
  During the fierce 30,000 man battle here, known as the Fourth Battle of kawanakajima in 1561, Kenshin Uesugi found Shingen Takeda and attacked him from horseback.  Osumi Hara (原 大隅). who was at Shingen's side, took up his master's spear and attacked the Kenshin on horseback.  Osumi's attack missed but caused Kenshin to flee.  Osumi, whose mistake allowed the enemy leader to escape, was furious with himself.  He drove the spear down upon a nearby rock, which remains to this day.
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(Sunday 18 November) Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "Kubi-zuka" (首塚; Burial Mounds), Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.
  This mound, formerly called "Kabane-tsuka" (屍塚), was one of those constructed by Danjo Masanobu Kosaka (高坂 弾正 昌信, 1527-1578), the owner of Kaizu Castle and also known as one of bisexual Shingen's male lovers.  After the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima on September 9 in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) [in the lunar calendar, or in the solar calendar on October 17, 1561], he gathered the bodies of 6,000 fallen soldiers from both Takeda and Uesugi, and had them respectfully interred in the mound.  Kenshin was so much impressed with Danjo's deed that he sent salt to the Takeda camp in the mountain area, which had been suffering from the shortage because of the conspiracy of the Imagawa clan (今川氏) and Hojo clan (北条氏) along the coast of the Pacific Ocean.  From this reciprocation of kindness comes the common Japanese expression, "Teki ni Shio wo Okuru" (「敵に塩を送る」; literally, "Send salt to the enemy") which means "To show humanity even to one's enemy."  About 180 m southeast of this site lies another similar burial mound in this size.  There were several in this vicinity, but only two remain today, although smaller burial mounds can be found here and there.
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(Sunday 18 November) A monument of the Battles of Kawanakajima, Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine
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(Sunday 18 November) A poetical monument recalling the Battles of Kawanakajima made by Gekki Tanaka Father and Son (田中月亀翁父子), Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City.
  The poem on the font of this marker recalls the hectic fighting that occurred here, while the poem on the back describes Hachimampara after the conflict was over.
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(Sunday 18 November) Basho Matsuo (松尾 芭蕉, 1644-1694)'s haiku monument, Kawanakajima, Nagano City:
  十六夜も (Izayoi mo)
  まだ更科の (Mada Sarashina no)
  郡かな (Kori kana)
    (貞享5年8月16日、信州坂城)
  Tonight is the Sixteenth Night already,
  But the moonscape still makes me
  Linger in Sarashina County.
    (September 1, 1688 in Sakaki, Shin-shu)
    
    (trans. Eishiro Ito)
    
  This poem was made when Matsuo was 45.
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(Sunday 18 November) A small stone shrine in the precincts of Kawanakajima Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, Kawanakajima, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) A pond in front of Nagano City Museum (長野市立公園), Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) A pond in front of Nagano City Museum (長野市立公園), Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) A mound in Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Statue of Shozan Sakuma (佐久間象山, 1811-1864), Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City.
  Shozan Sakuma, (March 22, 1811-August 12, 1864) was a Japanese politician and scholar of the late Edo Period .  He was the son of a samurai of the Matsushiro [or Sanada; 真田] clan [松代藩], and a native of Shinshu (信州) in today's Nagano City.
  At the age of 23, he went to Edo and studied Chinese science and then Western science through the Dutch translations of numerous books.  In 1849, he learned about electricity, through the book of the Dutch scientist Van den Bergh, and created Japan's first telegraph, 5 years before the gift of such a telegraph by Commodore Matthew Calbraith Perry (1794-1858) of USA in 1854.  He also invented electric machines derived from the Elekiter.
  He wrote some books to enlighten both the government and the general public to learn Western science keeping the Eastern ethics: Sakuma coined the still used phrase, "[Keeping] Japanese Ethics, [Learn] Western Science" (和魂洋才) as an illustration to the way Japan ought to handle modernization.   He taught several future leaders of modernization like Shoin Yoshida (吉田 松陰, 1830-1859), Kaishu Katsu (勝 海舟, 1823-1899), Ryoma Sakamoto (坂本 竜馬, 1835-1867), although he was assassinated in 1864 for his opinions by some radical anti-foreigner groups (尊皇攘夷).  The groups hired an assassin, or named Gensai Kawakami (河上 彦斎, 1834-1871) who felled Shozan with one strike in broad daylight along the Takase River in Central Kyoto.  Cf. the pic "kyc2006-016" of the Kyoto Central page.
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(Sunday 18 November) Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The riverside of the Chikuma River (千曲川), viewed from the side of Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park),Nagano City
  
     
Doai-bashi Bridge
     Doai-bashi Bridge (胴合橋), Masubuchi, Shinonoi (篠ノ井 杵淵) or 2328-2 Akagawa, Nishi-Terao, Shinonoi, Nagano City (長野市篠ノ井西寺尾字赤川2328-2) is on the side of Ogino-ya Nagano-ten (おぎのや長野店; restaurant and souvenir shop) by the Chikuma River and Hachimampara Shiseki-koen (八幡原史跡公園; Hachimampara Historic Park).
  This is the place where the body and the head of the legendary army commissioner Kansuke Yamamoto (山本勘助, 1493?-1561?) were pieced together by his retainers after he was fallen from his horse and beheaded by Isohachi Sakaki (坂木 磯八), a retainer of Kageie Kakizaki (柿崎 景家, 1513?-1573?) of the Uesugi clan in the middle of the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima on September 9 in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) [in the lunar calendar, or in the solar calendar on October 17, 1561].  "Doai-bashi" (胴合橋) literally means the bridge of meeting the body and the head.
  Kansuke Yamamoto has been one of the most popular army commissioners in Japan since the Edo Period (1603-1867).  The Japanese expression "Yama-kan" (山勘)meaning "by guesswork"; "by [at a] guess," is derived from the shorter form of his name.  The 2007 NHK Takga-drama Furin Kazan (『風林火山』)
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(Sunday 18 November) Doai-bashi Bridge (胴合橋), Masubuchi, Shinonoi (篠ノ井 杵淵) or 2328-2 Akagawa, Nishi-Terao, Shinonoi, Nagano City (長野市篠ノ井西寺尾字赤川2328-2).  The memorial script for the repose of Kansuke Yamamoto (山本勘助, 1493?-1561?) was made by the local people on march 23, 2007 with the donation of c. 4,000,000 yen.
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(Sunday 18 November) Doai-bashi Bridge (胴合橋), Masubuchi, Shinonoi (篠ノ井 杵淵) or 2328-2 Akagawa, Nishi-Terao, Shinonoi, Nagano City (長野市篠ノ井西寺尾字赤川2328-2)
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(Sunday 18 November) Doai-bashi Bridge (胴合橋), Masubuchi, Shinonoi (篠ノ井 杵淵) or 2328-2 Akagawa, Nishi-Terao, Shinonoi, Nagano City (長野市篠ノ井西寺尾字赤川2328-2)
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(Sunday 18 November) Doai-bashi Bridge (胴合橋), Masubuchi, Shinonoi (篠ノ井 杵淵) or 2328-2 Akagawa, Nishi-Terao, Shinonoi, Nagano City (長野市篠ノ井西寺尾字赤川2328-2)
  
     
Tenkyu-ji Temple
     Tenjyu-ji Temple (典厩寺) is located at 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City (長野市篠ノ井杵淵1000).  It belongs to the Soto-shu sect (曹洞宗) of Buddhism.
  It was originally called Kakuso-ji Temple (鶴巣寺).  During the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima on September 10 in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) [in the lunar calendar, or in the solar calendar on October 17, 1561].  Shingen Takeda's younger brother Nobushige Tenkyu Takeda (武田典廐信繁, 1525-1561) In the 8th year of Genna (元和8年) or 1622, about 60 years after the battle,
  Nobuyuki Sanada (真田 信之, 1566-1658), the first lord of the Shinano-Matsushiro clan (信濃松代藩) who lived at Matsushiro Castle (松代城), formally called Kaizo Castle (海津城) reportedly built by Kansuke Yamamoto (山本勘助, 1493?-1561?) at the order of Shingen Takeda.  During the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima, Nobushige pitched a camp in the temple and fought with the Uesugi clan until his glorious death.  People buried his corpse in this temple.  After renaming, this temple has been reposing the souls of the victims of the Battles of Kawanakajima.
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(Sunday 18 November) Signpost of Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "Roku-jizo" (六地蔵; Jizo [Skt. Ksitigarbha-bodhisattva; a guardian deity of children] of the Six States of Existence), outside of Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  They are Buddhist psychopomps of the six worlds of Buddhism: heaven, human beings, carnage, breasts, eternally famished devils and hell.
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(Sunday 18 November) "San-mon" (山門; the Front Gate), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "San-mon" (山門; the Front Gate), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Another "Roku-jizo" (六地蔵; Jizo [Skt. Ksitigarbha-bodhisattva; a guardian deity of children] of the Six States of Existence), inside of Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  They are Buddhist psychopomps of the six worlds of Buddhism: heaven, human beings, carnage, breasts, eternally famished devils and hell.  Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "Takeda & Uesugi Ryoyu no Ikki-uchi no hi" (武田・上杉両雄の一騎打ちの碑; the memorial stone of the Man-to-Man Fight between Lord Shingen Takeda and Lord Kenshin Uesugi), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  This stone was donated in the 44th year of Showa or 1969 when the NHK Taiga-drama Ten to Chi to (『天と地と』) was broadcasted.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell], built in the 1st year of Man-en [万延元年] or 1860), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  It was built in the 300th anniversary of the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima to pray for the souls of the victims.
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(Sunday 18 November) The image of "Smiling" Yama (閻魔; the Indian King of Hell), "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell], Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  This is the biggest image of Yama in Japan (over 6 m high).  Courtesy of Tenkyu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) The image of "Smiling" Yama (閻魔; the Indian King of Hell), "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell], Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  This is the biggest image of Yama in Japan (over 6 m high).  Courtesy of Tenkyu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) The image of "Smiling" Yama (閻魔; the Indian King of Hell), "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell], Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  This is the biggest image of Yama in Japan (over 6 m high).  Courtesy of Tenkyu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) A picture of the Fourth Battle of Kawanakajima on September 10 in the 4th year of Eiroku (永禄4年) [in the lunar calendar, or in the solar calendar on October 17, 1561], "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell].  Anonymous and date unknown (presumably around 1860).    Courtesy of Tenkyu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) Two humorous pictures of the imaginary judgment in Hell, "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell], Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  Courtesy of Tenkyu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) Some of the 33 pictures of "Kannon-bosatsu" (観音菩薩; the Merciful Goddess; Skt. Avalokitesvara; Ch. Kuan-Yin), "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell], Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  Courtesy of Tenkyu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) Some of the 33 pictures of "Kannon-bosatsu" (観音菩薩; the Merciful Goddess; Skt. Avalokitesvara; Ch. Kuan-Yin), "Enma-do" (閻魔堂; Hall of Yama [the Indian King of Hell], Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  Courtesy of Tenkyu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  This hall is dedicated for both the Takeda warriors and the Uesugi warriors.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  This hall is dedicated for both the Takeda warriors and the Uesugi warriors.
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(Sunday 18 November) "Tenjyu Nobushige Kubi-kiyome Ido" (典廐信繁首清め井戸; the Well Used to Purify the Head of Tenkyu Nobushige in 1561), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "Tenjyu Nobushige Kubi-kiyome Ido" (典廐信繁首清め井戸; the Well Used to Purify the Head of Tenkyu Nobushige in 1561), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) The grave of Tenkyu Nomushige Takeda (武田 典廐信繁, 1525-1561), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  It was erected by Nobuyuki Sanada (真田 信之, 1566-1658), the first lord of the Shinano-Matsushiro clan (信濃松代藩) who respected Tenkyu Takeda very much like numerous retainers of the former Takeda clan.
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(Sunday 18 November) The grave of Tenkyu Nomushige Takeda (武田 典廐信繁, 1525-1561), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  It was erected by Nobuyuki Sanada (真田 信之, 1566-1658), the first lord of the Shinano-Matsushiro clan (信濃松代藩) who respected Tenkyu Takeda very much like numerous retainers of the former Takeda clan.
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(Sunday 18 November) The grave of Tenkyu Nomushige Takeda (武田 典廐信繁, 1525-1561), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  It was erected by Nobuyuki Sanada (真田 信之, 1566-1658), the first lord of the Shinano-Matsushiro clan (信濃松代藩) who respected Tenkyu Takeda very much like numerous retainers of the former Takeda clan.
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(Sunday 18 November) An old stone lantern, Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) "Ko-Etsu Chokon-hi" (甲越弔魂碑; the Monument of Condolence for both the Takeda Clan and the Uesugi Clan, built in the 39th year of Meiji or 1906), Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  This was built in the 350th anniversary of the Battles of Kawanakajima with the handwriting of the Navy Admiral Sukeyuki Ito (伊東 祐亨, 1843-1914).
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(Sunday 18 November) Another stone lantern, Tenkyu-ji Temple, 1000 Masubuchi, Shinonoi, Nagano City.  The boulder on the left is called "Boke-fuji-no-Ishi" (ボケ封じの石; Stone for Sealing up the [Future] Dementia): Touch the stone first, and then touch your head!
  
     
Nakamura Apple Farm
     Nakamura-noen (中村農園; Nakamura Apple Farm), 1378 Oshimada-machi, Nagano City (長野市小島田町1378) where you can enjoy apple gathering.
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(Sunday 18 November) Nakamura-noen (Nakamura Apple Farm), 1378 Oshimada-machi, Nagano City
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(Sunday 18 November) Nakamura-noen (Nakamura Apple Farm), 1378 Oshimada-machi, Nagano City
  
     
Kama-meshi
     "Toge-no-Kama-meshi" (「峠の釜めし」; lit. the "Potted Lunch of the Pass"), Ogino-ya (おぎのや)
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(Sunday 18 November) Oginoya's (「峠の釜めし」; lit. the "Potted Lunch of the Pass") on Shinkansen train on the way back to Omiya.  In fact, I ate this twice for lunch and for dinner on the same day!



        


Copyright (c) 2007 Eishiro Ito.  All rights reserved.