Obama-shi (小浜市) is located in the western part of Fukui Prefecture.  Facing Wakasa Bay due north of Kyoto, the city is about four to five hours by train from Tokyo, and is served by the Obama Line of West Japan Railway Company (JR West).  As of April 1, 2009, the city had an estimated population of 31,160 and a density of 134 persons per sq. km.  The total area is 232.87 sq. km.
  Obama means "little beach" in Japanese.  In the Ritsuryo Period (律令時代) between late 7th and 10th centuries, Obama was the capital of Wakasa Province, one of entrance of continental culture.  Many temples related to the Yamato Dynasty (大和朝廷) are located in Obama, and the city is called "Nara by the sea".  In the Edo Period, Obama was the capital of the Obama Domain and was the starting point of the Mackerel Road to Kyoto.  The area was municipalized as a city in March 30, 1951, although the area has been inhabited for centuries.
  I have longed for "Yaki-saba" (焼き鯖: broiled mackerel) produced and cooked in Obama since I watched the NHK morning drama "Chiritotechin" (『ちりとてちん』) broadcasted between October 2007 - March 2008.  In the drama, Toru Kugasawa (久ヶ沢 徹) as Kosuke Noguchi (野口 幸助), owner of the fish restaurant Sakanaya-shokudo (魚屋食堂), likes to mediate between the disputants like "Doran-no-Kosuke" (胴乱の幸助) whose story has been told as a popular number of Kamigata-rakugo (上方落語).  Wherever it is a quarrel, Kosuke goes there to settle it giving his broiled mackerel to both sides.  Although the real (greasy) mackerel is too big to be eaten by one person (normally one for four persons according to a local fish restaurant), it looks very delicious in the drama.  Honestly, my main purpose to come here was to eat "Yaki-saba."

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JR Obama Station

JR Obama Station (JR小浜駅) is located at 1-1 Ekimae-cho, Obama City (小浜市駅前町1-1).

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(Monday 16 March) JR Obama Station, 1-1 Ekimae-cho, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) JR Obama Station, 1-1 Ekimae-cho, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Tourist Information Office, JR Obama Station, 1-1 Ekimae-cho, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) A red post in front of JR Obama Station, 1-1 Ekimae-cho, Obama City: It has a bronze statuette of a mermaid on top. See "Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple" below.

Hamakaze-dori

Hamakaze-dori Street (はまかぜ通り)

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(Monday 16 March) Oshita-shikki-ten (大下漆器店; Oshita Lacquerware Store), 1-1 Hiromine, Obama City (小浜市広峰1-1) along Hamakaze-dori Street

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(Monday 16 March) Oshita-shikki-ten (大下漆器店; Oshita Lacquerware Store), 1-1 Hiromine, Obama City (小浜市広峰1-1) along Hamakaze-dori Street: It displays a collection of the local lacquered chopsticks called "Wakasa-nuribashi."

Izumi-cho Arcade

Izumi-cho Arcade (いづみ町アーケード), which is also known as the "Saba-kaido" Arcade. Obama has been famous for "saba," mackerel. There is a highway called "Saba-kaido" between Obama and Kyoto.

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(Monday 16 March) Izumi-cho Arcade

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(Monday 16 March) Izumi-cho Arcade

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(Monday 16 March) Otani-shokudo (大谷食堂; Otani's Diner), Izumi-cho Arcade, or more precisely, 24 Obama-Hiromine, Obama City (小浜市小浜広峰24). Famous for seafood. Very popular among locals.

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(Monday 16 March) Otani-shokudo (Otani's Diner), Izumi-cho Arcade (24 Obama-Hiromine, Obama City)

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(Monday 16 March) Otani-shokudo (Otani's Diner), Izumi-cho Arcade (24 Obama-Hiromine, Obama City)

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(Monday 16 March) Otani-shokudo (Otani's Diner), Izumi-cho Arcade (24 Obama-Hiromine, Obama City)

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(Monday 16 March) Otani-shokudo (Otani's Diner), Izumi-cho Arcade (24 Obama-Hiromine, Obama City)

Obama-Kashima

Obama-Kashima (小浜鹿島) is a street lined with a neat row of old stores and houses. Obama Machinami-hozon Shiryo-kan (小浜町並保存資料館; the Obama Museum for Old Street Rows of Houses) stands at 40 Obama-Kashima, Obama City.

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(Monday 16 March) Obama-Kashima

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(Monday 16 March) Obama-Kashima

Hachiman-jinjya

Hachiman-jinjya Shrine (八幡神社) is located at 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City (小浜市小浜男山 9). As legend tells, it was founded in the 3rd year of Jingokeiun (神護景雲) or AD 769, enshrining the objects of worship (Emperor Ojin [応神天皇;or Homutawake; 誉田別] and his mother Empress Jingu [神功皇后]; or Okinagatarashi-hime; 息長足媛]) from Usa-jingu Shrine (宇佐神宮; 宇佐八幡宮), Oita in the Kyushu District. Since then, the shrine has been the tutelary deity (guardian god) of Obama. The annual ritual festival is held on September 15.

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(Monday 16 March) First Stone Shrine Gate to Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Second Wood Shrine Gate to the Worshippers' Hall of Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Statue of the Sacred Horse, Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) "Hai-den" (拝殿; the Worshippers' Hall), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) "Hai-den" (拝殿; the Worshippers' Hall), Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) One of the two long-paw foo dogs of Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Inari-jinjya Shrine (稲荷神社) in the precincts of Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Small shrines in the precincts of Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) A view from "Hai-den" Hall of Hachiman-jinjya Shrine, 9 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple

Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple (建康山 空印寺) is a temple founded by Lord Tadataka Kyogoku (京極 忠高) in c. 1600, belonging to the Soto-shu sect (曹洞宗). It is located at 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City (小浜市男山 2). After the Kyogoku clan moved to Izumo-Oki (出雲隠岐) after the Battles of Osaka (大阪の役, 1614-15), it became the family temple for the Sakai family (酒井家) who ruled Obama. However, this temple is much more famous for the legend of "Happyaku-bikuni" (八百比丘尼; lit. the 800-year-old Buddhist Nun) who gained immortal youth and life after eating flesh of ningyo (人魚; lit. human fish; often translated as mermaid). There is a cave by the temple gate where, as legend tells, the 800-year-old Buddhist Nun finally entered Nirvana by fasting off. Ningyo (人魚; lit. human fish), often translated as "mermaid," is a fish-like creature from Japanese folklore. Anciently, it was described with a mouth like a monkey's, small teeth like a fish's, shining golden scales, and a quiet voice like a skylark or a flute. Its flesh is pleasant-tasting, and anyone who eats it will attain remarkable longevity. However, catching a ningyo was believed to bring storms and misfortune, so fishermen who caught these creatures were said to throw them back into the sea. A ningyo washed onto the beach was an omen of war or calamity. One of the most famous folk stories concerning ningyo is called "Happyaku-bikuni" (八百比丘尼; lit. the 800-year-old Buddhist Nun). The story tells how a fisherman who lived in Wakasa Province (若狭国) once caught an unusual fish. In all his years fishing, he had never seen anything like it, so he invited his friends over to sample its meat. One of the guests, however, peeked into the kitchen, noticed that the head of this fish had a human face, and warned the others not to eat it. So when the fisherman finished cooking and offered his guests the ningyo's grilled flesh, they secretly wrapped it in paper and hid it on their persons so that it could be discarded on the way home. But one man, drunk on sake, forgot to throw the strange fish away. This man had a little daughter, who demanded a present when her father arrived home, and he carelessly gave her the fish. Coming to his senses, the father tried to stop her from eating it, fearing she would be poisoned, but he was too late and she finished it all. But as nothing particularly bad seemed to happen to the girl afterwards, the man did not worry about it for long. Years passed, and the girl grew up and was married. But after that she did not age any more: She kept the same youthful appearance while her husband grew old and died. After many years of perpetual youth and being widowed again and again, the woman became a nun and wandered through various countries. Finally she returned to her hometown in Wakasa, where she ended her life in the cave by the sea (see below) at an age of 800 years. (Main Reference: the site of "Ningyo-- Wikipedia"). Recently, as time goes by, some Japanese women gradually adore "Happyaku-bikuni" (八百比丘尼) as the symbol of eternal youth and beauty. So Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, especially "Happyaku-bikuni"'s cave become a popular tourist spot for women now.

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(Monday 16 March) San-mon Gate (山門), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Hon-do Hall (本堂; the main hall), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Seated statue of Hakusan-zenji (白山禅師), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The altar of Hon-do Hall (本堂; the main hall), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The altar for "Happyaku-bikuni" in Hon-do Hall (本堂; the main hall), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The picture "Happyaku-bikuni" in Hon-do Hall (本堂; the main hall), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The small image of "Happyaku-bikuni" in Hon-do Hall (本堂; the main hall), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) A replica of the imaginary flesh of Ningyo, Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) A Kokeshi doll of "Happyaku-bikuni," Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) A news story "Once Upon a Time: Nanjo's Nihon: Mermaid's gift or curse?" by Asami Nagai (appeared in the Daily Yomiuri, presumably dated Jan. 12, 1998), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The list of the places related to "Happyaku-bikuni" edited by the head priest of Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) White ume trees, Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) A small shrine of Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The cave of "Happyaku-bikuni" entering Nirvana (八百比丘尼入定の地), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The cave of "Happyaku-bikuni" entering Nirvana (八百比丘尼入定洞), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The cave of "Happyaku-bikuni" entering Nirvana (八百比丘尼入定洞), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The cave of "Happyaku-bikuni" entering Nirvana (八百比丘尼入定洞), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The cave of "Happyaku-bikuni" entering Nirvana (八百比丘尼入定洞), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) The cave of "Happyaku-bikuni" entering Nirvana (八百比丘尼入定洞), Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple, 2 Obama-Otokoyama, Obama City

Taki-no-Tenman-gu

Taki-no-Tenman-gu Shrine (瀧の天満宮) near Taki-no-mizu (瀧の水; lit. the Water of the Cascade) and Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple (凌霄山常高寺). The exact foundation date is unknown, although it enshrines Michizane Sugawara (菅原道真, 845-903) as the shrine name indicates. Sugawara rose to high positions of the imperial court under the grace of 59th Emperor Uda (宇多天皇, 867-931; r.887-897), but in 901 he fell into a trap of his rival Tokihira Fujiwara (藤原 時平, 871-909) and was demoted to a minor official of Dazaifu (太宰府), in Kyushu(九州)'s Chikuzen Province (筑前国). After his lonely death, plague and drought spread and sons of Emperor Daigo died in succession. The "Shishin-den" (紫宸殿; Imperial Palace's Great Audience Hall) was struck repeatedly by lightning, and the city experienced weeks of rainstorms and floods. Attributing this to the angry spirit of the exiled Sugawara, the imperial court built a Shinto shrine called Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine (北野天満宮) in Kyoto, and dedicated it to him. They posthumously restored his title and office, and struck from the record any mention of his exile. Sugawara was deified as Tenjin-sama (天神様), or kami of scholarship. Today many Shinto shrines in Japan are dedicated to him. This shrine is one of them. There is a shrine record which tells an episode. In 1568 Yoshikage Asakura (朝倉 義景, 1533-1573) of Echizen Province attacked Wakasa (若狭) ruled by Lord Motoaki Takeda (武田 元明, 1552-1582), he took back the image of Michizane Sugawara from this shrine. Since then bad things happened several times to Yoshikage until the Battle of Ichijodani (一条谷の戦い) occurred in September 1573. So Yoshikage confusedly placed back the image according to the shrine record. However, it was too late. He was killed during the battle.

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(Monday 16 March) Two small shrines near Taki-no-Tenman-gu Shrine

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(Monday 16 March) Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple, vewed from Taki-no-Tenman-gu Shrine

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(Monday 16 March) Taki-no-Tenman-gu Shrine

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(Monday 16 March) Hai-den Hall (拝殿; Worshippers' Hall), Taki-no-Tenman-gu Shrine

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(Monday 16 March) "Taki-no-mizu" (滝の水; the water of the fall), Taki-no-Tenman-gu Shrine

Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple (凌霄山常高寺) is located at 2 Ohara, Obama City (小浜市小浜大原2). It belongs to the Rinzei-shu sect (臨済宗) of Buddhism. It was founded in the 1th year of Bummei (文明15年) or AD 1482 by Nobuchika Takeda (武田信親) inviting Shugyoku Jyumho (潤甫周玉) from Ken-nin-ji Temple (建仁寺), Kyoto.Originally it was called Seiun-ji Temple (栖雲寺). After Shugyoku's death in the 17th year of Tembun (天文17年) or AD 1548, new lords Nagamasa Asano (浅野長政) and Takatsugu Kyogoku (京極高次, 1563-1609) supported the temple, which was later moved to a new place. Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple was built in the site of Seiun-ji Temple in the 7th year of Kan-ei (寛永7年) or AD 1630, inviting the local Zen priest Shuko Kaido (槐堂周虎). It was named after O-Hatsu-no-kata (お初の方, 1570-1633), also known as Joko-in (常高院) after her husband's death in 1609. Joko-in was born as the 2nd daughter between Nagamasa Asai 浅井 長政, 1545-1573() and O-Ichi-no-kata (お市の方, 1547-1583). She married Takatsugu Kyogoku in the 15th year of Tensho (天正15年) or AD 1587. She played an important role in negotiations between the Tokugawa family and the Toyotomi family because her elder sister was a concubine of Hideyoshi Toyotomi and her younger sister married 2nd Tokugawa Shogun Hidetada. Although the Kyogoku clan moved to Izumo-Matsu (出雲松江) in 1634, one year after her death, her grave remained here in Obama at her will. After that the temple was supported not only by the Kyogoku family but also the new ruling Sakai family (酒井家).

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(Monday 16 March) A shrine in the precinct of Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) San-mon Gate (山門), Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) Hon-do (本堂; the main hall), Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) Inside of Hon-do (本堂; the main hall), Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) A Jizo statue of Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) "Shoro" (鐘楼; the belfry), Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) The garden of Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) The garden of Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple

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(Monday 16 March) The memorial stone of the haiku poet Hosai Ozaki (尾崎 放哉, 1885-1926), Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple. Hosai worked here as a "tera-otoko" (寺男; sexton) between May to July, 1925.

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(Monday 16 March) Hosai Ozaki's haiku monument, Nozen-zan Joko-ji Temple: Nami-oto Sabishiku Shami ya Men-sasete iru (浪音淋しく三味や免させて居る) (The lonely sound of waves Now subrogate The tune of samisen.) (trans. Eishiro Ito)

Ningyo-no-hama

"Ningyo-no-hama Kaisui-yokujo" (人魚の浜海水浴場) or the Mermaid Beach Watering Place, Obama City. It was named after the legend of Happyaku-bikuni" (八百比丘尼; lit. the 800-year-old Buddhist Nun) who gained immortal youth and life after eating flesh of "Ningyo" (人魚; lit. human fish; often translated as mermaid). See "Kenko-zan Kuin-ji Temple" above.

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(Monday 16 March) Ningyo-no-hama Beach, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Ningyo-no-hama Beach, Obama City

Obama Fishing Port

Obama Fishing Port (小浜漁港), Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Obama Fishing Port (小浜漁港), Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Obama Fishing Port (小浜漁港), Obama City

Obama Public Hospital

Gempaku Sugita Memorial Obama Municipal Hospital (杉田玄白記念小浜公立病院) is located at 2-2 Ote-machi, Obama City (小浜市大手町2番2号). Born at the "Shimo-yashiki" (下屋敷; villa) of the Obama-Sakai clan (小浜酒井家) in Ushigome (牛込), Edo [江戸; now Tokyo], Gempaku Sugita (杉田 玄白, 1733-1817) was a Japanese doctor/scholar who was known for his translation of Ontleedkundige Tafelen, often known in Japan as Tafel Anatomie (『ターヘル・アナトミア 』), of Kulmus’ German Anatomische Tabellen (1722), which was published as Kaitai Shinsho (『解体新書』; New Book of Anatomy). Besides Kaitai Shinsho, he also authored Rangaku Kotohajime (『蘭学事始』; Our Beginning of Dutch Studies). In the 8th year of Weiwa (明和8年) or AD 1765, Sugita assembled a team of Japanese translators and doctors to translate a Dutch book of anatomy: Kulmus' Ontleedkundige Tafelen. He did so because he found out, after an autopsy, that the western drawings of human organs were much more accurate than the ones in his Chinese handbooks. If the drawings were better, the text must be very interesting too, so they tried very hard to understand every single word and to make a Japanese translation. At a rate of one page a week/month, this work was finished and published in 1774. As an example of how difficult this work was, the collaborators had to study and discuss several days before they were able to find out that the Dutch "neus" (nose), being a bulb on the front meant the Japanese "hana" (鼻).

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(Monday 16 March) Gempaku Sugita Memorial Obama Public Hospital, 2-2 Ote-machi, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) Statue of Gempaku Sugita in front of Gempaku Sugita Memorial Obama Municipal Hospital, 2-2 Ote-machi, Obama City

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(Monday 16 March) "Sugita Gempaku Kensho-hi" (過ぎた玄白 顕彰碑; the monument in honor of Gempaku Sugita), Chuo-koen (中央公園; Central Park), 12-1 Ote-machi, Obama City. It is located in the opposite side of the street of Gempaku Sugita Memorial Obama Municipal Hospital

        

Copyright (c) 2009 Eishiro Ito.  All rights reserved.