JAPAN PICS
Hiraizumi Town, Nishi-Iwai County, Iwate
岩手県西磐井郡平泉町
Table of Contents

  Spring Fujiwara Festival (春の藤原祭り)
  Kan-zan Chuson-ji Temple (関山 中尊寺)
  "Takkoku-no-Iwaya" or Kobu-san Seiko-ji Temple (達谷の窟/古峯山 西光寺)
  Io-zan Motsu-ji Temple (医王山 毛越寺)
  "En-nen no Mai," Motsu-ji Temple (毛越寺 延年の舞)
  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple (毛越寺 曲水の宴)
  Kanjizaio-in Temple Site (観自在王院跡)
  Hakusan-jinjya Shrine )(白山神社)
  Yanagi-no-Gosho Site (柳の御所跡)
  Muryo-Koin Temple Site (無量光院跡)
  Takadachi-Gikei-do Hall (高舘義経堂)
  Musashibo Benkei (武蔵坊弁慶)
  Kinkei-zan Hill (金鶏山)
JAPAN PICS GENERAL INDEX
Hokkaido District
  
Do-o (Hokkaido Central)
  
   Naganuma Town (The Tsuchinotomi Society Tour)
2006
   Otaru City (The Tsuchinotomi Society Tour)
2006
   Sapporo City (The Tsuchinotomi Society Tour)
2006
   Sapporo City ("Nihon-no-Matsuri" 2006)
2006
Iwate of the Tohoku District
  
   Esashi, Oshu City
2004-2011
   Hachimantai City
2006
   Hanamaki City
2005-2007
   Hiraizumi Town
2003-2007
   Ichinoseki City
2004-2010
   Iwaizumi Town
2005
   Kitakami City
2005
   Miyako City
2009-2011
   Mizusawa, Oshu City
2004-2012
   Morioka City
2004-2012
   Ninohe City
2007
   Rikuzentakata City
2008-2011
   Shizukuishi Town
2007
   Tono City
2003
Other Tohoku Regions
  
Aomori
  
   Hachinohe City (The Tsuchinotomi Society Tour)
2006
Miyagi
  
   Matsushima Town
2006
   Tome City
2005
Yamagata
  
   Yamadera, Yamagata City
2005
Kanto District
  
Ibaraki
  
   Joso City
2007
   Kashima City
2006
   Mito City
2008
   Shimotsuma City
2007
Kanagawa
  
   Kamakura City
2005-2007
Tochigi
  
   Nikko City
2002-2007
   Utsunomiya City
2007
Tokyo
  
   Tokyo Central
2002-2012
Yamanashi
  
   Kofu City
2007
Chubu District
  
Aichi
  
   Nagoya City
2008
   Toyokawa City
2009
Fukui
  
   Eiheiji Town
2009
   Fukui City
2009-2011
   Obama City
2009
   Tsuruga City
2009-2011
Gifu
  
   Gujo-Hachiman
2009
   Sekigahara Town
2008
Ishikawa
  
   Kanazawa City
2008
Nagano
  
   Nagano City
2007
   Matsumoto City
2007
Shizuoka
  
   Fuji City
2009-2010
Kansai (Kinki) District
  
Hyogo
  
   Ako City
2008
   Himeji City
2008
   Kobe City
2008-2012
   Nishinomiya City
2012
   Tamba City
2010
Kyoto
  
   Kyoto City Central
2005-2012
   Kyoto City East
2005-2012
   Kyoto City North
2005-2011
   Kyoto City South
2006-2012
   Kyoto City West
2005-2012
   Ayabe City
2010
   Maizuru City
2010
   Miyazu City
2012
   Uji City
2006
   Yahata City
2006
Mie
  
   Iga City
2011
   Ise City
2009
Nara
  
   Asuka Area
2006
   Ikaruga Town
2005
   Nara City Central
2006-2010
   Nishinokyo, Nara City
2005-2010
   Sakurai City
2011
   Tenri City
2011-2012
   Yoshino Town
2010
Osaka
  
   Hirakata City
2005-2012
   Osaka City Central
2007-2011
   Sakai City
2010
Shiga
  
   Azuchi-cho, Omihachiman City
2008-2010
   Hikone City
2008
   Koka City
2011
   Nagahama City
2008-2011
   Otsu City
2006-2009
Wakayama
  
   Koya Town
2009
   Wakayama City
2011
Chugoku District
  
Hiroshima
  
   Hiroshima City
2002-2012
   Miyajima, Hatsukaichi City
2002-2012
   Onomichi City
2002
Okayama
  
   Kurashiki City
2008
   Okayama City
2008
Shimane
  
   Izumo City
2011
   Oda City
2012
   Tsuwano Town
2012
Yamaguchi
  
   Hagi City
2012
   Iwakuni City
2012
   Shimonoseki City
2010-2012
   Yamaguchi City
2010-2012
Shikoku District
  
Ehime
  
   Matsuyama City
2011
Kagawa
  
   Kotohira Town
2011
   Takamatsu City
2011
Kochi
  
   Kochi City
2011
Kyushu District
  
Fukuoka
  
   Dazaifu City
2010
   Fukuoka City
2010
   Kitakyushu City
2010-2012
Kagoshima
  
   Hioki City
2010
   Kagoshima City
2010
Nagasaki
  
   Nagasaki City
2010
Oita
  
   Oita City
2010

Hiraizumi Town, Nishi-Iwai-gun, Iwate
2003 - 2007

  Hiraizumi (平泉) is a town extending up the Hiraizumi Hill on the west bank of the Kitakami River in the southwestern part of Iwate Prefecture, that prospered for one hundred years from 1089-1189 as the political and cultural center of the Tohoku region (the northeastern region of the Main Island).  Hiraizumi at the height of the Heian Period (794-1192) was said to rival "Heian-kyo" (平安京; Kyoto) under the rule of the Oshu-Fujiwara family (奥州藤原氏).  On June 26, 2011 the five sites of Hiraizumi, representing the Buddhist Pure Land, was inscribed on the list of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage: the heritage includes the sacred hill of Kinkei-san (金鶏山, 98.6 m), Chuson-ji Temple (中尊寺), Motsu-ji Temple (毛越寺), the site of Kanjizaio-in Temple (観自在王院跡) and the site of Muryoko-in Temple (無量光院跡).   The population in the golden age was said to have been over 100,000 (the second biggest city next to Kyoto at that time) but now underpopulated to about 9,000 (2005).
  Over 3,000 national treasures and historical sites still remain, telling of the 0shu-Fujiwara family that reigned over the area in the zenith of its prosperity.  The splendid culture that appeared during the reign of the 0shu-Fujiwaras lasted for three generations and has been preserved in the area to this day.  This page features the major three historical sites of Hiraizumi -- Chuson-ji Temple (中尊寺), Takkoku-no-Iwaya (達谷の窟; Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple;達谷 西光寺) and Motsu-ji Temple (毛越寺).  Takkoku-no-Iwaya is a temple constructed partially in a cave at the foot of a cliff.  It was built and dedicated to the god of warriors in the 9th century, when the Japanese expanded their territory northern wards and fought battles with the Emishi (蝦夷; Ezo) people in the region.
  The Konjiki-do Hall (金色堂) of Chuson-ji Temple, built by the Fujiwaras, is decorated inside and out with lacquer containing gold foil and studded with gold and silver, a symbol of the gold culture of Hiraizumi.  The historical artifacts and Buddhist statues found in the Konjiki-do are stored in the Sankozo storehouse and displayed to the public, reminding all who see them of the very high level of artistic achievement in these earlier times.  It is commonly assumed that when Marco Polo (1254-1324) wrote in Travels (or known as "Tales of the Orient"; 『東方見聞録』) of his travels to extravagant places in "Zipangu," as he called Japan, where even the roofs were covered with gold bars, that he was referring to the Golden Hall.  In fact the Oshu-Fujiwara family was engaged in trade with Sung (宋; China between 960-1279), so it is not surprising that news of the Golden Hall would have reached the ears of Marco Polo.  Likewise, tales of the riches of the Orient prompted Christopher Columbus to set out for the "Island of Gold," a voyage that led instead to his landing on one of the Bahama Islands in 1492.
  The haiku poet Basho Matsuo (松尾 芭蕉) and his disciple Sora Kawai (河合 曽良) left the hermitage "Basho-an" in Edo (now Tokyo), in March 27, 1689 in the Chinese lunar calendar (May 16 in the Western solar calendar) to have a five-month-trip to the Tohoku District.  There are four temples founded by Jikaku Daishi Ennin (慈覚大師円仁, 794-864) for Emperor Seiwa (清和天皇)'s petition of maintaining peace and order in the Tohoku District on their route: Empuku-ji Temple (延福寺; now Zuigan-ji Temple; 瑞巌寺), Matsushima (828), Kasho-ji Temple (嘉祥寺; now Motsu-ji Temple; 毛越寺), Hiraizumi (850), Kodaijyu-in Temple (弘台寿院; now Chuson-ji Temple; 中尊寺), Hiraizumi (850) and Risshaku-ji Temple (立石寺; or Yamadera; 山寺), Yamagata (860).  Born in Mibu, Tochigi, Ennin entered the Buddhist priesthood at the age of nine and became a disciple of Saint Saicho (最澄) in Hiei-zan Enryaku-ji Temple (比叡山 延暦寺), Kyoto.  In 835 he went to Tang [唐; now China] to study the esoteric Buddhism (密教) for nine and half years.*  As he returned from China, he became the third abbot of Hieizan-Enryaku-ji Temple and greatly contributed to diffusion of the Tendai Sect (天台宗) all over Japan.  Two years after his death he was canonized and received the title of "Daishi" (大師; Great Teacher) for the first time in Japan.  Matsuo's journey to the Tohoku District was probably greatly inspired by Saint Jikaku's Buddhist world which centered the ancient Tagajo Government (多賀城) with his four temples surrounded.
  
  Zuigan-ji Temple, Matsushima:
    Clear voiced cuckoo,
    Even you will need
    The silver wings of a crane
    To span the islands of Matsushima. (Sora Kawai)


  Chuson-ji Temple and Motsu-ji Temple, Hiraizumi:
    A thicket of summer grass
    Is all that remains
    Of the dreams and ambitions
    Of ancient warriors.
  
    I caught a glimpse
    Of the frosty hair of Kanefusa
    Wavering among
    The white blossoms of unohana (Sora Kawai)
  
    Even the long rain of May
    Has left it untouched -
    This Gold Chapel
    Aglow in the sombre shade.


  Risshaku-ji Temple, Yamagata:
    In the utter silence
    Of a temple,
    A cicada's voice alone
    Penetrates the rocks.
          (haikus translated by Nobuyuki Yuasa)
    
  *Saint Jikaku's record of his journey, Nittou Guhou Junrei Kouki (The Record of a Pilgrimage to China in Search of the Law) is Japan's first real travel diary.  Edwin O. Reischauer (1910-1990; former US ambassador to Japan), is also famous for his research on Ennin.  He published his English translation titled Ennin's Diary: The Record of a Pilgrimage to China in Search of the Law (New York: The Ronald Press Company, 1955).  Reischauer rated Ennin's Diary extremely highly.  In his thesis, he even went so far as to state that of the world's three great travel books--Hsuan-tsang (or San-tsang: In Japanese pronunciation, "Genjo" or "Sanzo")'s (602-664) Journey to the West, Marco Polo's Travels and Ennin's Diary has incomparable historical value.

 
  For further studying Hiraizumi, one good English book available:

Yiengpruksawan, Mimi Hall.  Hiraizumi: Buddhist Art and Regional Politics
   in Twelfth-Century Japan (Harvard East Asian Monographs, 171). 
  
Cambridge, MA and London: Harvard University Press, 1998.



CHRONOLOGY
AD 776 First reference to "Isawa" in the official record of Japan
789 First Invasion.   Battle of Subuse (now east of Mizusawa, Oshu City), along River Kitakami: "Aterui" (first reported) beats the Chotei army.
794 Second Invasion
801 Third Invasion.   Tamuramaro Sakanoue leads the Chotei army.
802 Begins to build Isawa-jo Castle.  Aterui and More surrender and are beheaded in Kawachi.
808 Isawa-jo Castle becomes the "Chinjyu-fu" (the military base or office).
862 "Yakushinyorai-zazo" of Kokuseki-ji Temple was made.
1053 "Earlier Nine Years' War" (-1062)
1056 The "Akurigawa" Incident
1057 Yoritoki Abe dies.  Sadato Abe wins at the Battle of Kinomi.
1062 "Earlier Nine Years' War" ends with the decline of the Abe clan. family.
1083 "Latter Three Years' War" begins (-1085).
1105 Kiyohira Fujiwara starts building Chuson-ji Temple.
1124 "Konjiki-do" (Golden Hall) of Chuson-ji Temple completes.
1128 Kiyohira Fujiwara dies at 73.
1135 Built Kosho-ji Temple, Inase Village, Esashi County.
1170 Hidehira Fujiwara becomes "Chinjyu-fu-shogun" (the generalissimo of the military base).
1189 Yoritomo Minamoto's invasion: the decline of Hiraizumi.


IMAGE
IMAGE NO.
DATA
Fujiwara Festival
     Spring Fujiwara Festival (春の藤原祭り): May 1 to 5.
  May 1: The memorial service for the Oshu-Fujiwara family (奥州 藤原氏) is held at Chuson-ji Temple and Motsu-ji Temple.  35,000 visitors
  May 2: "Kaisan Goma Hoyo / Kyodo Geino" (開山記念護摩法要/郷土芸能; The Fire-offering memorial service at the Founder's Hall of Chuson-ji Temple / The Provincial Art Performances)  26,000 visitors
  May 3: "Minamoto Yoshitsune-ko Azuma-kudari Gyoretsu" (源義経公東下り行列; The historical pageant of Lord Yoshitsune Minamoto's coming down to the east): Starts at Motsu-ji Temple and ends at Chuson-ji Temple.  250,000 visitors
  May 4: Hakusan-jinjya Festival (白山神社祭礼) held at Chuson-ji Temple.  50,000 visitors
  May 5: Noh (能) performances at Chuson-ji Temple, "En-nen no Mai" (延年の舞) Dance held at Motsu-ji Temple and "Benkei Chikara-mochi Kyogi Taikai" (弁慶力持ち競技大会; Strength Games for Benkei Cup of Strength-giving Rice-cake )  44,000 visitors
          Total visitors: 405,000 (2005)
  
  The most popular event of them is "Minamoto Yoshitsune-ko Azuma-kudari Gyoretsu" which gathered about 250,000 people from all over Japan in 2005: It is probably because NHK broadcasts "Yoshitsune" the Samurai drama since January, starring the top idol Hideaki Takizawa (23) as Yoshitsune, who came Hiraizumi to perform the same character in the procession on May 3.
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(Tuesday 3 May) Katsumi Nagano (the chairman of Iwate Bank) acts Lord Hidehira Fujiwara in the ox-cart
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(Tuesday 3 May) As Kichiji Kaneuri or Nobutaka Kichiji Sanjo, the negotiator and gold salesman on horseback
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(Tuesday 3 May) Hideaki Takizawa (23) as Yoshitsune Minamoto on horseback: As he performed Yoshitsune on the TV drama, he has a noble face, looking so distinguished that spectators (the majority of them are women) could be satisfied with a glimpse of him and taking one or two photos with their camera-attached mobile phones, despite of a tremendous crowd.
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(Tuesday 3 May) Hideaki Takizawa (23) as Yoshitsune Minamoto on horseback
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(Tuesday 3 May) Junko Hamaguchi (19) as Kita-no-kata (Yoshitsune's Lady) on the ox-cart: She seems to have felt uneasy in sitting the traditional ox-cart and often tried to change her legs' position nervously.
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(Tuesday 3 May) As Kiyoshige Jiro Suruga under the guise of a monk
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(Tuesday 3 May) The procession
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(Tuesday 3 May) As Saburo Akita on horseback
  
     
Chuson-ji Temple
     Kan-zan Chuson-ji Temple (関山 中尊寺) was founded by Jikaku-Daishi Ennin (慈覚大師円仁) in the 3rd year of Kasho (嘉祥3年) or AD 850 for Emperor Seiwa (清和天皇, 850-880; reign 858-876)'s petition of maintaining peace and order in the Tohoku and the Northern Kanto Districts.  It belongs to the Tendai-shu sect of Buddhism.  Chuson-ji Temple was named by Emperor Seiwa in 860s.
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(Thursday 14 August) Information board of Chuson-ji Temple
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(Thursday 14 August) "Benkeido" (弁慶堂; Benkei Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  Named after Lord Yoshitsune Minamoto's faithful servant Musashibo-Benkei the Buddhist monk
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(Thursday 14 August) "Jizodo" (地蔵堂; Jizo Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  "Jizo" Bodhisattva (Sanskrit Ksitegarbha or Ksitigarbha) is the Guardian of Deceased Children, Expectant Mothers, Firemen, Travelers, and Pilgrims.  One of the most beloved of all Japanese divinities, Jizo works to ease the suffering and shorten the sentence of those serving time in hell.  Jizo statues can be found everywhere in Japan, most especially in graveyards.  He is the only Bodhisattiva in Japan depicted as a monk.  Among some translators, Jizo is known as "Womb of the Earth."
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(Thursday 14 August) "Yakushi-do" (薬師堂; Medical Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  Yakushi Nyorai (薬師如来; literally "Great Teacher of Medicine") is the Buddha of Medicine and Healing (Skt. Bhaisaya, Bhaisajya, Bhaishajya, Bhaisajyaguru).  Yakushi, the Buddha of healing and medicine, is often shown holding a small jar of medicine in his left hand, while his right hand is in the mudra position meaning "No Fear."  When Buddhism came to Japan in the 6th century from Korean Peninsula and China, Yakushi was among the first to arrive, and he quickly became revered throughout Japan as a powerful god who could cure earthly suffering.  Even today, he is one of the most cherished Buddhist figures.  So many Buddhist temples have the same kind of Yakushi-do in their yard.
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(Thursday 14 August) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  A ten-minute walk up the slope of the Tsukimi Zaka (literally "Moon-watching Slope") brings visitors to the Hon-do, or main hall, where many of the traditional religious ceremonies take place.
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(Thursday 14 August) The interior of "Hon-do" (Main Hall), Chuson-ji Temple
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(Thursday 14 August) "Hon-do" (Main Hall), Chuson-ji Temple
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(Thursday 14 August) The pond near the Hon-do (Main Hall), Chuson-ji Temple
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(Thursday 14 August) "Fudo-do" (不動堂; Fudo Hall) with a statue of Jizo.  Fudo or Fudo Myo-o (不動明王) is a personification of Dainichi Nyorai, the Cosmic Buddha or the Great Buddha (Sanskrit: Vairocana or Mahavairocana Tathagata).  He is said to convert anger into salvation; furious, glaring face, as Fudo seeks to frighten people into accepting the teachings of Dainichi; carries "kurikara" or devil-subduing sword in right hand (also represents wisdom cutting through ignorance); holds rope in left hand (to catch and bind up demons); often has third eye in forehead; often seated or standing on rock (because Fudo is "immovable" in his faith).
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(Thursday 14 August) "Mine-Yakushi-do" (峰薬師堂; Ridge Medical Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  Probably this Yakushi-do is related to mountain worship.
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&


Interior of the Konjikido

(Thursday 14 August) "Konjiki-do" Hall (金色堂; Golden Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  Built in 1124 by Lord Kiyohara at his wife's request, the Amida-do of the Konjiki-do is known as the symbolization of the Oshu-Fujiwara family culture.  The Sanskrit meaning of Amida (Amita) is "never-ending."  Thus, the Buddhist land of Amita is the "pure land," where light and life are eternal, and the truth will save all people.  The building of Konjiki-do was intended as the realization of that utopia as imagined by the ancient Indians.  Lacquer has been applied to the entire temple, and the wood decorated with gold leaf and lacquer.  The four pillars sparkle with the blue and white of mother-of-pearl inlay.  Inside, there are several Buddhist images, including that of Kannon Bosatsu, the Goddess of Mercy, and Jizo Bosatsu, the Buddhist guardian of children.  There are also three altars, which contain the mummified bodies of Kiyohara and his son, Motohira, his grandson, Hidehira, and his great-grandson, Yasuhira: the only such preservation in the world of four generations.
  *The Interior of the Konjiki-do pic-- courtesy of the official homepage of Iwate Prefecture
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(Thursday 14 August) The monument board of the poem "Chuson-ji Temple" by Kenji Miyazawa (宮沢 賢治)
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(Thursday 14 August) The monument of the poem "Chuson-ji Temple" by Kenji Miyazawa
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(Thursday 14 August) "Kyozo" (経蔵; Sutra Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  The Kyozo houses over 5,300 sacred scrolls -- one of the largest sutra collections in Japan.  These sutras were written in gold and silver ink on indigo paper and were requisitioned by Lord Kiyohara.  Designated as national treasures, most of them are housed on Mt. Koya, but a few are on display at the treasure house.
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(Thursday 14 August) "Tenman-gu" Hall (天満宮) , Chuson-ji Temple.  Worshipping Michizane Sugawara, an influential scholar and politician of the Heian Period (798-1192), who has been identified with Tenjin, the kami ("Shinto god") of learning and studying.
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(Thursday 14 August) Statue of Matsuo Basho (松尾 芭蕉), author of the famous traveling journal, Oku-no-Hosomichi (『奥の細道』; Narrow Road to the Deep North).  He visted Hiraizumi in 1689:

Station 23 - Hiraizumi

  It was here that the glory of three generations of the Fujiwara family passed away like a snatch of empty dream.  The ruins of the main gate greeted my eyes a mile before I came upon Lord Hidehira's mansion, which had been utterly reduced to rice-paddies. Mount Kinkei alone retained its original shape.  As I climbed one of the foothills called Takadachi, where Lord Yoshitsune met his death, I saw the River Kitakami running through the plains of Nambu in its full force, and its tributary, Koromogawa, winding along the site of the Izumigashiro castle and pouring into the big river directly below my eyes.  The ruined house of Lord Yasuhira was located to the north of the barrier-gate of Koromogaseki, thus blocking the entrance from the Nambu area and forming a protection against barbarous intruders from the north.  Indeed, many a feat of chivalrous valor was repeated here during the short span of the three generations, but both the actors and the deeds have long been dead and passed into oblivion.  When a country is defeated, there remain only mountains and rivers, and on a ruined castle in spring only grasses thrive.  I sat down on my hat and wept bitterly till I almost forgot time.

  A thicket of summer grass
  Is all that remains
  Of the dreams and ambitions
  Of ancient warriors.

  I caught a glimpse
  Of the frosty hair of Kanefusa
  Wavering among
  The white blossoms of unohana
      - written by Sora


  The interiors of the two sacred buildings of whose wonders I had often heard with astonishment were at last revealed to me.  In the library of sutras were placed the statues of the three nobles who governed this area, and enshrined in the so called Gold Chapel were the coffins containing their bodies, and under the all-devouring grass, their treasures scattered, their jeweled doors broken and their gold pillars crushed, but thanks to the outer frame and a covering of tiles added for protection, they had survived to be a monument of at least a thousand years.

  Even the long rain of May
  Has left it untouched -
  This Gold Chapel
  Aglow in the sombre shade.

          (trans. Nobuyuki Yuasa)

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(Thursday 14 August) "Daichojyu-in" (Great Macrobiosis Hall), Chuson-ji Temple.  Or Hari-kyu Saikokubo (Acupuncture Clinic Saikokubo)
  
     
Takkoku-Seiko-ji
     "Takkoku-no-Iwaya" (達谷の窟) or "Bishamon-do" (毘沙門堂; Bishamon Hall) is formally called "Kobu-san Seiko-ji" Temple (古峯山 西光寺) which was founded in the 20th year of Enryaku (延暦20年) or AD 801 by Lord General Tamuramaro Sakanoue (坂上 田村麻呂) to pray for his victory over Great "Emishi" (蝦夷; Ezo or Ainu) Chief Aterui: It was one year before his conquest.  The stage structure of the building followed that of Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto which was also founded by Tamuramaro Sakanoue.   See the Kyoto East page.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Ichi-no-Torii" (First Shrine Gate), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple and "Takkoku-no-Iwaya" (Takkoku Cave)
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(Sunday 27 May) "Ni-no-Torii" (Second Shrine Gate), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple and "Takkoku-no-Iwaya" (Takkoku Cave)
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(Sunday 27 May) The inscription stone reading "Kobu-san" (古峯山), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple.  There are numerous Shinto shrines which have the inscription stone reading "Kobu-san" (古峯山) in this area.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Takkoku-no-Iwaya" or "Bishamon-do" (Bishamon Hall), founded in 802 by Lord General Tamuramaro Sakanoue after his conquest over Great "Emishi" (Ezo or Ainu) Chief Aterui.  The stage structure of the building followed that of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto which was also founded by Tamuramaro Sakanoue.   See the Kyoto East page.
  "Bishamon-ten" (毘沙門天) is derived from the Indian God of War and Warriors (Sanskrit: Vaishravana or Vaisravana).  The small pagoda he often carries symbolizes the divine treasure house.  He is both a protector of and dispenser of its treasure -- he shares the pagoda's vast treasures with only "the worthy."  Also called "Tamon-ten" (多聞天; Listens to Many Teachings), for he protects the places where Buddha preaches and listens always to Buddha's teachings.  Said to live halfway down the north side of Mount Sumeru, Bishamon protects the north, and is accompanied by two classes of mythical beings -- "Yasha" (夜叉; Yaksa) and "Rasetsu" (羅刹; Rakshasa).
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(Sunday 27 May) "Takkoku-no-Iwaya" or "Bishamon-do" (Bishamon Hall), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple
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(Thursday 14 August) Information board of Takkoku-no-Iwaya or "Bishamon-do" (Bishamon Hall), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple
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(Thursday 14 August) Viewed from the stage of "Bishamon-do," Takkoku-no-Iwaya
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(Thursday 14 August) The stage of "Bishamon-do," Takkoku-no-Iwaya
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(Sunday 27 May) "Gammen Daibutsu" (岩面大仏; Great Amida Buddha's Face on the Rock), Takkoku-no-Iwaya.  Said to be carved by Lord Yoshiie Minamoto after "Earlier Nine Years' War (1051-1062) and "Latter Three Years' War (1083-1087) for comforting the souls of the fallens.  Height of the face: 16.5 m, Width of the face: 3.6 m; of the shoulders: 9.9 m.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Gammen Daibutsu" (Great Amida Buddha's Face on the Rock), Takkoku-no-Iwaya
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(Thursday 14 August) "Hokora" (祠; small shrine) for worshipping mountain gods
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(Thursday 14 August) "Benten-do" (弁天堂; Benten Hall) and Takkoku-no-Iwaya or "Bishamon-do" (Bishamon Hall) viewed from the small bridge over Gamagaike Pond.  "Benten" (弁天) or "Benzaiten" (弁財天) is Goddess of Art and Music (Sanskrit: Sarasvati).  However, this hall is known as "Enkiri-dera" (縁切寺; temple where a woman, especially wife desperately comes for help to get a breakup or divorce from her lover or husband).  So a warning is in front of the hall: "Do not come here with your lover or husband together."
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(Thursday 14 August) "Himemachi-Fudo-do" (姫待不動堂; Waiting-for-ladies Fudo Hall), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple
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(Thursday 14 August) Information board of Himemachi-Fudo-do (Waiting-for-ladies Fudo Hall), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple.  It suggests a dubious legend disrespecting "Acro-o," the bad avatar of Aterui, the legendary lord of the Emishi people:
  
  According to the dubious legend, "Acro-o" (悪路王) and his followers often kidnapped high-born maidens from Kyoto, confined them in "Kagohime" (籠姫; lit. Maidens' Cage) upstream and enjoyed cherry-blossom-viewing with them in "Sakurano" (桜野; lit. Cherry FIeld) repeatedly.  They called a fall nearby "Himemachi-no-Taki" (姫待ちの滝; lit. Fall of Waylaying Escaping Maidens").  They also called the stone near the cave "Katsura-Ishi " (鬘石; lit. [Maidens'] Wig Stone) because they cut the maiden's beautiful black hair as a warning to other kidnapped maidens.
  
  Probably the Japanese people in later generations blindly wanted to believe Tamuramaro Sakanoue as a most respectable hero and "Aterui" or "Acro-o" who fought with Sakanoue as an evil figure.   Kenji Miyazawa wrote a poem about "Acro-o" taking hint from this legend, titled "Haratai Kenbai Ren" (原体剣舞連; lit. "A Verse for Haratai [Village] Sword Dance," dated August 31, 1922) in Spring and Ashura.
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(Thursday 14 August) "Kon-do" (Golden Hall), Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple (originally built in 802 but burnt out in 1490; the present building completed in 1996)
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(Thursday 14 August) Garden of Takkoku-Seiko-ji Temple
  
     
Motsu-ji Temple
     Kasho-ji/Enryu-ji/Motsu-ji (嘉祥寺 / 円隆寺 / 毛越寺) Temple was founded by a great Buddhist monk Jikaku-Daishi Ennin (慈覚大師 円仁) or Saint Jikaku in the 3rd year of Kasho (嘉祥3年) or AD 850 for Emperor Seiwa (清和天皇, 850-880; reign 858-876)'s petition of maintaining peace and order in the Tohoku and the Northern Kanto Districts.
  It is formally called "Io-zan Motsu-ji" Temple (医王山 毛越寺) which belongs to the Tendai-shu sect (天台宗) as a special head temple (別格本山).  It still maintains one of the oldest Japanese gardens with an elegant pond which has kept the vestige of the late Heian Period since the early twelfth century.  It is called "Jodo-teien" (浄土庭園; the Garden of the Buddhist Pure Land).  Although the temple had experienced many severe times for centuries after the decline of their guardian/financial supporter lords of the Oshu-Fujiwara family, it still conveys traditional performing arts such as "Ennen-no-mai" (延年の舞; the Serial Dances of Longevity) and "Gokusui no En" (曲水の宴; the Tanka Party by the Winding Stream) as well as numerous cultural assets.  As for the detail, see the pics below.
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(Sunday 22 May) Picture of Motsu-ji Temple in the late twelfth century
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(Monday 16 August) Motsu-ji Temple Information Board
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(Monday 16 August) Mom in front of Entrance Gate to Motsu-ji Temple
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(Monday 16 August) A haiku monument of Matsuo Basho, built in 1689, Motsu-ji Temple:
  
  夏草や (Natsukusa ya)
  兵どもが (Tsuwamono-domo ga)
  夢の跡 (Yume no Ato)
  Grass in summer
  Is all that remains of the utopia
  Of great samurai.
    (trans. Eishiro Ito)

  The haiku is said to have been dedicated to Yoshitsune Minamoto and his retainers.  Cf. "hrz2005-006."
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(Monday 16 August) "Hon-do" (Main Hall) of Motsu-ji Temple
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(Monday 16 August) "Tsuki-yama" (築山; Rocks arranged in the shape of craggy coast) and Oizumi-ga-ike Pond (大泉が池), Motsu-ji Temple
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(Saturday 5 May) "Tsuki-yama" (築山; Rocks arranged in the shape of craggy coast) and Oizumi-ga-ike Pond (大泉が池), Motsu-ji Temple
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(Saturday 5 May) "Tsuki-yama" (築山; Rocks arranged in the shape of craggy coast) and Oizumi-ga-ike Pond (大泉が池), Motsu-ji Temple
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(Monday 16 August) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond, Motsu-ji Temple
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(Monday 16 August) "Kaisan-do" Hall (開山堂; Founder's Hall), Motsu-ji Temple.  Motsu-ji Temple was founded by Buddhist monk Jikaku-Daishi Ennin or Saint Jikaku in AD 850.  This hall houses his statue, the images of Ryokai Dainich-Nyorai (両界大日如来像) and three lords of the Oshu-Fujiwara family (Kiyohira, Motohira and Hidehira).  "Ryokai Dainichi Nyorai" is Mahavairocana or the Cosmic Buddha Vairocana in the Mandala of the Two Worlds ("Ryokai").
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(Monday 16 August) "Yari-mizu" (遣水; the stream flowing into Oizumi-ga-ike Pond), Motsu-ji Temple.  "Yari-mizu" is a gently murmuring stream, usually flowing from east to southwest but in the case of Motsu-ji Temple, the stream flows from north to south; it is an extremely old garden form and usually appears as a very winding, narrow stream.  It is the only surviving "Yari-mizu" entirely made in the Heian Period (798-1192).
  This "Yari-mizu" is used for an annual tanka gathering called "Gokusui no En" (曲水の宴) held on the fourth Sunday of May.  See below.
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(Monday 16 August) "Jogyo-do" Hall (常行堂), Motsu-ji Temple.  "Jogyo-do" means "Hall of Perpetual Practice."  The Jogyodo Hall enshrines Amida-Nyorai (Buddha Amitabha) and four image of the Buddha.  Matarajin or Yaksha (a Hindu Demon) is also enshrined in the innermost.  This hall was a seminary for disciplinants.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jogyo-do" Hall (常行堂), Motsu-ji Temple.  "Jogyo-do" means "Hall of Perpetual Practice."  The Jogyodo Hall enshrines Amida-Nyorai (Buddha Amitabha) and four image of the Buddha.  Matara-jin (摩多羅神) or Yaksha (夜叉; a Hindu Demon) is also enshrined in the innermost.  This hall was a seminary for disciplinants.
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(Saturday 5 May) A tree behind the "Jogyo-do" Hall (常行堂), Motsu-ji Temple
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(Monday 16 August) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall) and Oizumi-ga-ike Pond, Motsu-ji Temple.  The two boats called "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; lit. "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat"; "Geki" (鷁) is an imaginary water bird).  In the Heian Period (798-1192), the noble people enjoyed music played on the two boats.
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(Saturday 5 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond, Motsu-ji Temple.  The two boats called "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; lit. "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat"; "Geki" (鷁) is an imaginary water bird).  In the Heian Period (798-1192), the noble people enjoyed music played on the two boats.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall) and Oizumi-ga-ike Pond, Motsu-ji Temple.  The two boats called "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; lit. "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat"; "Geki" (鷁) is an imaginary water bird).  In the Heian Period (798-1192), the noble people enjoyed music played on the two boats.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall) and Oizumi-ga-ike Pond, Motsu-ji Temple.  The two boats called "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; lit. "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat"; "Geki" (鷁) is an imaginary water bird).  In the Heian Period (798-1192), the noble people enjoyed music played on the two boats.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hon-do" (本堂; Main Hall) and Oizumi-ga-ike Pond, Motsu-ji Temple.  The two boats called "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; lit. "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat"; "Geki" (鷁) is an imaginary water bird).  In the Heian Period (798-1192), the noble people enjoyed music played on the two boats.
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(Saturday 5 May) A hall with a tree in bloom, Motsu-ji Temple
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(Saturday 5 May) Site of the Ko-do Hall (講堂), Motsu-ji Temple
  
     
"En-nen no Mai,"
Motsu-ji Temple
  
  "En-nen" (延年) means "longevity" in Japanese.  "En-nen no Mai" (延年の舞; the Serial Dances of Longevity) is the general term of a series of sacred dances after a Buddhist service.  It is said that Jikaku-Daishi Ennin (慈覚大師 円仁; , 794-864), the founder who learned Buddhism at "Tendai-san" [天台山; Ch. Tian Tai Shan], Tang [a China dynasty, 618-907], initiated the monks into the mysteries of the dances.  This series of the dances is very important cultural immaterial property for researching the traditional dances in the Middle Ages from "Bu-gaku" (music & dance) to "Noh": There are several temples preserving "En-nen no Mai" including Nikko-san Rinno-ji Temple (日光山輪王寺) which also annually holds the Buddhist procession including "En-nen no Mai" starting at 8:00 a.m. on May 17.  Probably Motsu-ji Temple's dance is the best one which well-preserved the original style in the late Heian Period since the mid-twelfth century.
  Motsu-ji Temple presents "En-nen no Mai" in January ("Hatsuka-ya-sai" [二十日夜祭; the Twentieth Night Festival]), in May ("Haru no Fujiwara Matsuri" [the Spring Fujiwara Festival]), in June ("Ayame Matsuri" [あやめ祭り; The Iris Festival]), and in September ("Hagi Matsuri" [萩の祭り; The Bush-clover Festival]).  It starts with "Yobitate" (呼立; the Summon) which are, in regular order, followed by "Dengaku-odori" (田楽躍; the Rice-planter's Dance), Ro-mai" (路舞; the Welcome Dance), "Notto" (祝詞; the Congratulations) ""Ro-jo" (老女; the Old Woman's Dance), "Jyaku-jo" (若女; The Young Woman's Dance [performed with a Shinto priest]), "Chigo-mai" (児舞; the Boys' Dance) and "Chokushi-mai" (勅使舞; the Imperial Messenger's Dance).  The "En-nen no Mai" of Motsu-ji Temple has been originally performed at "Jyogyo-do" Hall, but recently it is performed in the new dance hall near "Hon-do" (Main Hall) on January 20th every year.  
  The main reference: the official booklet of Motsu-ji no En-nen no Mai (『毛越寺の延年の舞』) written by Yasuji Honda (本田 安次 1986).
  It is also said among local people that to watch "En-nen no Mai" is to add to your natural term of existence.
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(Saturday 5 May) Prologue of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) by the monk at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) Prologue of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) by the monk at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-mai" (路舞; the Welcome Dance) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.  "Ro-mai" is also called "Kara-byoshi" (唐拍子; the Dance with a Chinese [the Tang Dynasty-styled] Cadence).  Presumably it is derived from "Dengaku-mai" (田楽舞; the ritual music and dancing performed in Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples).  It is said that this dance expresses Saint Jikaku's experience that he was welcomed by two boys' dance on arrival in China, and that the same boys suddenly appeared before him when he founded this temple and trained himself here.  It is performed with the "ji-yo" (地謡; a chorus in utai singing) by five monks (normally by 3-5 monks).
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-mai" (路舞; the Welcome Dance) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-mai" (路舞; the Welcome Dance) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.  It is also called "Bando-mai" (板東舞; the Dance from the Kanto District).  It convey the anecdote that long ago a virgin consecrated to a deity came here from Bando (the Kanto District), or precisely from Kamakura (鎌倉) and performed a ritual dance.
  In the latter half of the performance, a Shinto priest (禰宜) appears, and they performed together, although they never touch or dance together.  No music but only the woman's mysterious bell ringing continuously from the beginning to the end.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (Dance of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Jyaku-jo, Negi" (若女、禰宜; A Young Woman and a Shinto Priest) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-jo" (老女; An Old Woman) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.  This is the highlight of the "En-nen no Mai."
  Supposedly," the 100-year-old woman," once a beautiful virgin consecrated to the deity who could perform the sacred dace very well, tried hard to express her gratitude for longevity before a God called "Matara-jin" (摩多羅神; the guardian saint of the Buddhist trainings in the Tendai-shu sect of Buddhism).
  However, she cannot perform anymore in the same way as she could when she was young.  Bent [bowed, stooping] with age, she managed to dance to express for her gratitude of longevity.  It is said that this is the most difficult dance of "En-nen no Mai."
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-jo" (老女; An Old Woman) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-jo" (老女; An Old Woman) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.  She prays for a God called "Matara-jin" (摩多羅神; the guardian saint of the Buddhist trainings in the Tendai-shu sect of Buddhism) three times.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-jo" (老女; An Old Woman) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
  After praying for "Matara-jin" three times, she began her dance.  She meant to dance as she used to in her prime time.  Bent with age, however, she cannot dance very well.  Still, she never stops the dance of gratitude before the God.
  Her dance is far from the kind of what we usually associate with the word "dance."  If you grasp the concept of the longevity, however, you can never take your eyes off this supposedly 100-year-old woman's performance.  She is still hale and hearty at one hundred!
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-jo" (老女; An Old Woman) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-jo" (老女; An Old Woman) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Ro-jo" (老女; An Old Woman) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hanaori" (花折; Breaking off a Spray of Flowers) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.  "Hanaori" is one song of "Chigo-mai" (the Boys' Dance); the other is "Obo-ga-seki?" (王母ヶ昔).  "Chigo-mai" is also called "Tachiai" (立合; Face to Face) because two boys dance in both of the "Chigo-mai."
  Each of two boys, bringing a spray of cherry blossoms (桜) in hand, appears and stand face to face.  Then they offer the flowers to the altar, and go back al little singing a hymn and perform the dance of "Senshu-banzei" (千秋万歳; the longevity and prosperity over tens of thousands years).  In the shorter version of "En-nen no Mai" this performance often culminated the serial dance.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hanaori" (花折; Breaking off a Spray of Flowers) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hanaori" (花折; Breaking off a Spray of Flowers) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.  This is one of the "Chigo-mai" (児舞; the Boys' Dance)
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hanaori" (花折; Breaking off a Spray of Flowers) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.  Five monks sing "Jiyo" (地謡; a chorus in utai singing).
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hanaori" (花折; Breaking off a Spray of Flowers) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hanaori" (花折; Breaking off a Spray of Flowers) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
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(Saturday 5 May) "Hanaori" (花折; Breaking off a Spray of Flowers) of "En-nen no Mai" (the Serial Dances of Longevity) at Motsu-ji Dance Hall.
  
     
"Gokusui no En,"
Motsu-ji Temple
  
  "Gokusui no En" (曲水の宴; the Tanka Party by the Winding Stream) annually held in the fourth Sunday of May: It is the revival of the Tanka Party which was very popular among the nobility in the Heian Period (794-1191).  In 2007, six poets including Masaki Kudo (工藤 雅樹, president of Iwate Cultural Properties Protection Council) participated in the party held on Sunday 27 May.  All of them wore the Heian noble costumes [women: "jyuni-hitoe" (十二単): 12-layered female noble kimono (more than 20 kg) worn by court ladies; men: "Ikan-sokutai" (衣冠束帯): ceremonial full court dress worn by court gentlemen] and made a Tanka following the 2007 subject given for composition "Tabi" (旅; travel, tour) before receiving the cup on the "Usho" (羽觴; cormorant-shaped small boat) flowing on the stream.  Then each poet wrote a tanka poem on the "tanzaku" (短冊; strip of fancy paper) drinking the Japanese sake.  Finally the authorized lecturer announced loud (using the microphone now) all of the Tankas.   The "Gokusui no En" has been annually hosted by Motsu-ji Temple for more than twenty years since the "Yarimizu" (the ancient winding stream) reconstructed as it were in the Heian Period.  About 3,000 people including some international tourists came to see this festival in 2007.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  In 2007, Naomi Kumagai (熊谷 直美, age 25), Morioka, plays a chairwoman wearing a beautiful 12-layered noble costume of the Medieval Japan and announces that "tabi" (旅; travel, tour) is the theme of the 2007 tanka gathering.
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(Sunday 27 May) Naomi Kumagai, Morioka, a chairwoman wearing a beautiful 12-layered noble costume of the Medieval Japan calls the 2007 "Gokusui no En" to order.
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(Sunday 27 May) Opening Address by the head priest of Moktsu-ji Temple Raikyo Nando-kansu (南洞頼教 貫主) at "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple
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(Sunday 27 May) Poets at "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple
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(Sunday 27 May) Poets at "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple
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(Sunday 27 May) Naomi Kumagai (熊谷 直美), Morioka, a chairwoman wearing a beautiful 12-layered noble costume of the Medieval Japan, announces that "tabi" (旅; travel, tour) is the theme of the 2007 tanka gathering.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Jyakujo's Mai" (若女の舞; The Young Woman's Dance from "En-nen no Mai": see above) to the tune of "Saibara" (催馬楽; a traditional Japanese palace music).  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Jyakujo's Mai" (若女の舞; The Young Woman's Dance from "En-nen no Mai": see above) to the tune of "Saibara" (催馬楽; a traditional Japanese palace music).  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Jyakujo's Mai" (若女の舞; The Young Woman's Dance from "En-nen no Mai": see above) to the tune of "Saibara" (催馬楽; a traditional Japanese palace music).  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Jyakujo's Mai" (若女の舞; The Young Woman's Dance from "En-nen no Mai": see above) to the tune of "Saibara" (催馬楽; a traditional Japanese palace music).  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple
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(Sunday 27 May) "Gokusui no En" starts at Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Chigo" (稚児; the infant servants) bring "Usho" (羽觴; cormorant-shaped small boats) to flow on the stream and handle them to flow down neatly.  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Chigo" (稚児; the infant servants) bring "Usho" (羽觴; cormorant-shaped small boats) to flow on the stream and handle them to flow down neatly.  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) "Chigo" (稚児; the infant servants) bring "Usho" (羽觴; cormorant-shaped small boats) to flow on the stream and handle them to flow down neatly.  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) Chigo" (稚児; the infant servants) bring "Usho" (羽觴; cormorant-shaped small boats) to flow on the stream) and each poet are writing a tanka poem on the "tanzaku" (短冊; strip of fancy paper), drinking the Japanese sake.  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) Chigo" (稚児; the infant servants) bring "Usho" (羽觴; cormorant-shaped small boats) to flow on the stream) and each poet are writing a tanka poem on the "tanzaku" (短冊; strip of fancy paper), drinking the Japanese sake.  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) Chigo" (稚児; the infant servants) bring "Usho" (羽觴; cormorant-shaped small boats) to flow on the stream) and each poet are writing a tanka poem on the "tanzaku" (短冊; strip of fancy paper), drinking the Japanese sake.  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) All "Usho" boats have flowed down.  Now it is time for every poet to submit the tanka on the "tanzaku."  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) Toshikane Bojo (坊城 俊周), president of "Kyuchu Uta-kai-hajime Hiko-kai" (宮中歌会始めの会; the Organizing Committee of the Imperial New Year 's Poetry Reading), announces all the six poets' poems in the traditional tone.  "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.
  Among them, Masaki Kudo (工藤 雅樹) writes:
  
  旅寝する (Tabine suru)
  束稲山の (Tabashine-yama no)
  木のもとに (Ki no moto ni)
  花のふすまを (Hana no Fusuma wo)
  着する春風 (Kisuru Harukaze)
  (Passing a night on its journey
  Under the greenwood tree
  Of Tabashine Hill*
  The spring breeze is draped with
  The sliding shawl [fusuma] of flowers.)
    (trans. Eishiro Ito)
  
  *Tabashine Hill (束稲山, 596 m), located east of Hiraizumi, had been noted for its cherry blossoms (sakura) by the famous tanka poet Saigyo-hoshi (西行法師, 1118-1190).  Now it is famous for "tsutsuji" (azalea).
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(Sunday 27 May) After "Gokusui no En" the poets are leaving.  Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) After "Gokusui no En," Chairwoman Naomi Kumagai exits gracefully.  Motsu-ji Temple.
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Raikyo Nando-kansu (南洞頼教 貫主), Toshikane Bojo (坊城 俊周) and three musicians are boarding on the boat called "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat."  "Geki" (鷁) is an imaginary water bird.
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Three musicians are performing ancient elegant music on the boat.
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Three musicians are performing ancient elegant music on the boat.
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Three musicians are performing ancient elegant music on the boat.
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Naomi Kumagai and four "Chigo" (the infant servants) are boarding on the "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat."
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Naomi Kumagai and four "Chigo" (the infant servants) are boarding on the "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat."
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Two poets and three musicians are boarding on the "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat."
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  Two poets and three musicians are boarding on the "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat."
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  The other four poets are boarding on the "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat."
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(Sunday 27 May) Oizumi-ga-ike Pond after "Gokusui no En," Motsu-ji Temple.  The other four poets are boarding on the "Ryuto-Gekishu-no-fune" (龍頭鷁首の舟; "Dragon-Head-Carved Boat with and Geki-Head Carved Boat."
  
     
Kanjizaio-in Site
     The Kanjizaio-in (観自在王院) temple complex is situated at the eastern end of the Motsu-ji Special Historic Site.  Its date of construction is unclear, but it was sponsored by the second Fujiwara lord Motohira (基衡)'s wife who was reportedly a daughter of Muneto Abe (阿倍 宗任).
  Maizuru-ga-Ike, the Pond of Dancing Cranes, bears particular note.  Like Motsu-ji's Oizumi-ga-Ike pond, this restored Pure Land pond conforms to the gardening standards laid out in the great treatise Sakuteiki.  The white sand, green pines motif on the east side is contrasted with a rock formation on the west end known as the Dragon's Head, which calls to mind Japan's rugged shoreline.  There was an island in the middle of the pond, but the remains of connecting bridges have yet to be discovered.  The feeder stream for Maizuru ga Ike appears to have drawn water from Motsu-ji's Benten-Ike Pond, which would have meant that water flowed west to east.  In the Sakuteiki, this construction was only permitted to temples.
  On the western edge of Kanjizaio-in's grounds at their border with the Motsu-ji Temple complex, the remains of a 30-meter-long pebble floor has been unearthed.  There is evidence that this was a post-supported building, most likely a sort of garage for the cow-drawn carts of the elite.  The Azuma Kagami inventory of 1189 Hiraizumi records such a structure, and notes that this area was also filled with craftsperson's dwellings and tall mansions (hypothesized to be treasure storehouses).  Recalling that Kanjizaio-in was right along the entrance into Hiraizumi on the great outback road from the south, it is easy to understand the psychological value of placing this impressive urban commerce center here.
      (Quoted from: "Kanjizaio-in Temple Ruins" of the "For The World Heritage-- Hiraizumi's Cultural Heritage" site)
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(Sunday 22 May) Information Board of Kanjizaio-in Temple Site
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(Sunday 22 May) Kanjizaio-in Temple Site
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(Sunday 22 May) Maizuru ga Ike Pond (舞鶴が池), Kanjizaio-in Temple
  
     
Hakusan-jinjya Shrine
     There are so many "Hakusan-jinjya" (白山神社) shrines all over Japan: "Hakusan" literally means a "white [high] mountain" which has been worshipped by the Japanese people since the ancient times.
  The following description is quoted from "Hakusan at Hiraizumi and the Geopolitics of Mandate in the Eastern Provinces" by Mimi Hall Yiengpruksawan, Yale University in the "1996 AAS Abstracts: Japan Session 194" site:
  
  That a Hakusan Shrine stands at the heart of Hiraizumi, as domain and as culture, is not well known.  But long before Hiraizumi became what it was, a strange and powerful presence on the edge of the mainstream Japanese world, the three Hakusan kami were worshipped on the mountain around which the city was built.  And long after the fall of Hiraizumi to Minamoto soldiers in 1189, the Hakusan Shrine was maintained and cherished by the descendants of those once under the purview of warlords now dead and buried in a hall not far from the original location of Hakusan Gongen on that mountain.
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(Tuesday 3 May) Hakusan-jinjya Shrine site, Hiraizumi.  The present building has been recently reconstructed in the original site.
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(Tuesday 3 May) Sign of Hakusan-jinjya Shrine, Hiraizumi, which reads "Hiyoshi [日吉; Sunshine]-Hakusan-gu"
  
     
Yanagi-no-Gosho Site
     "Yanagi-no-Gosho" (柳の御所; literally the Willow Palace) is though to have held the residence of the first lord of the Oshu-Fujiwara family, Kiyohira and the second lord, Motohira.  Despite of the continuous archeological surveys since 1969, the state of the ruins remained unclear and it was believed that a large portion had been washed away by the neighboring Kitakami River.  Full-scale excavation did not begin until 1988, when construction of a flood prevention levee and the Route 4 Bypass scheduled to run along its top threatened to encroach upon the site.  This fever-pitched archeological survey unearthed the remains of numerous twelfth century buildings and evidence of moats, bridge remains, and a great quantity of imported ceramic bowls.  This evidence indicates that the "Yanagi-no-Gosho" site was at its peak during the third quarter of the twelfth century, corresponding to the era of the third lord, Hidehira.  This also proved an opportunity to bring scholarly skepticism to bear on the tradition claiming the site as belonging to Kiyohira and Motohira.
  Among the many items retrieved from this site are Chinese ceramics, a plethora of disposal clay ritual utensils, earthenware trays, cloth, and wood items.  Some of these have been found nowhere else in Japan but Kyoto.  Evidence has also been found of pillars and a spring-fed pond.  It is surmised from this evidence that the "Yanagi-no-Gosho" site was the governmental center of Hiraizumi, "Hiraizumi-no-Tachi" (sometimes translated "Hiraizumi Mansion), while the southerly adjoining "Kara-no-Gosho" site was Hidehira's evidence.
      (Quoted from: "Yanagi no Gosho Site" of the "For The World Heritage-- Hiraizumi's Cultural Heritage" site)
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(Tuesday 3 May) Information Board of the "Yanagi-no-Gosho" site near the Kitakami River
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(Tuesday 3 May) "Yanagi-no-Gosho" site near the Kitakami River
  
     
Muryo-Koin Site
     Muryo-Koin Temple (無量光院) was built by the third Oshu-Fujiwara lord, Hidehira.  It is recorded as having illustrations of the Visualization Sutra on all four interior walls.  Hidehira himself took brush in hand for hunting scenes therein.  These ornate walls surrounded a monumental Amida Buddha statue, the main hall's principal image.  It was a massive and beautiful temple, said by the Azuma Kagami (the Record of the East 1180-1166, 53 vols.) to be "in its entirety a copy of Uji-Byodo-in," location of the famous Phoenix Hall.  However, on close examination, it is clear that though the Phoenix Hall was undoubtedly the inspiration for Muryo-Koin Temple, Hidehira did more than simply copy the Byodo-in.  Historical materials support the conclusion of archeological surveys that Muryo-Koin was larger than the Byodo-in.  Additionally, an island unearthed from the temple's pond remains suggests that Muryo-Koin was built on a similar configuration to Motsu-ji Temple and Kanjizaio-in Temple.
    (Quoted from: "Muryokoin Temple Ruins" of the "For The World Heritage-- Hiraizumi's Cultural Heritage" site)
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(Tuesday 3 May) Information Board of Muryo-Koin Temple, off old Route 4
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(Tuesday 3 May) Picture of Muryo-Koin Temple, off old Route 4
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(Tuesday 3 May) Muryo-Koin Temple remains, off old Route 4
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(Tuesday 3 May) Muryo-Koin Temple remains, off old Route 4
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(Tuesday 3 May) Muryo-Koin Temple remains, off old Route 4
  
     
Takadachi-Gikei-do
     Takadachi-Gikei-do (Takadachi Hall of Yoshitsune Minamoto).  This hall was built for the memory of Yoshitsune Minamoto by the order of Tsunamura Date, the fourth lord of Sendai in 1683.
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(Thursday 6 January) Takadachi-Gikei-do (高舘義経堂; Takadachi Hall of Yoshitsune Minamoto).  Yoshitsune Minamoto (源義経, 1159-1189) was the ninth son of Yoshitomo Minamoto (源 義朝), the leader of the Minamoto clan in the time of the Heiji War (平治の乱, 1159) and a youngest brother of Yoritomo Minamoto (源頼朝) who founded the Kamakura Shorunate (鎌倉幕府) in Kamakura in 1192.  Yoshitsune lived here in Takadachi (高舘; lit. High Hall [of Yoshitsune].  He was attacked here by Yasuhira Fujiwara (藤原泰衡), the fourth lord of the Oshu-Fujiwara family in1189 following the order of Yoritomo Minamoto who feared his brother's potential to threat his Shogunate: Yoshitsune was said to kill himself here to avoid the shame of being captured and executed while many other legends tell his hairbreadth escape out of Hiraizumi for the North.
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(Thursday 6 January) Takadachi-Gikei-do (Takadachi Hall of Yoshitsune Minamoto).
  Yoshitsune Minamoto was born slightly before the Heiji War in 1159 when the Minamoto clan (Gen-ji) of Eastern Japan and the Taira clan (Hei-shi) of Western Japan, the two powerful samurai clans related by blood to Tenno, struggled for leadership:, the Taira (Hei-shi) clan won, and his father Yoshitomo, his two oldest brothers and other members of the clan were killed during the war.  Yoshitsune's life was spared by his mother Tokiwa's suppliance to Kiyomori Taira, and put under the care of Kurama-dera, a temple in the northern suburb of Kyoto while Yoritomo, his elder brother born of a different mother, was banished to the Izu Province.  Eventually Yoshitsune and his legendary retainer Musashibo-Benkei were put under the protection of Hidehira Fujiwara, head of the powerful regional Fujiwara family in Hiraizumi.
  In 1180, Yoshitsune heard that Yoritomo, the present head of the Minamoto clan, had raised an army at the request of Prince Mochihito to fight against the Taira clan which had usurped the power of the emperor.  Soon Yoshitsune joined Yoritomo along with his uncle Noriyuri Minamoto and other members of the Minamoto clan that had met never before , in the last of three conflicts between the rival Minamoto and Taira samurai clans in the Gempei Wars.
  Yoshitsune defeated and killed his rival cousin Yoshinaka Minamoto in Awazu of Omi Province [now Otsu, Shiga] in January 1184 and in the next month defeated the Taira clan at Battle of Ichi-no-Tani (now Kobe).  In 1185, Yoshitsune defeated the Taira clan again at Battle of Yashima [now Takamatsu, Kagawa], and conquered them at Battle of Dan-no-Ura (now Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi).   It is doubtlessly Yoshitsune that best conduced to the Minamoto clan's victory.
  After the Gempei Wars, Yoshitsune joined the cloistered Emperor Go-Shirakawa against his brother Yoritomo, but he ended up fleeing for the temporary protection of Hidehira Fujiwara in Hiraizumi again.  Two years after Hidehira's death, however, Yoshitomo was betrayed and killed by Hidehira's son Yasuhira who greatly feared Yoritomo.  Musashibo-Benkei was also killed by Yasuhira's army around here.  Soon Yoritomo's army came to destroy Hiraizumi and the Oshu-Fujiwara family to establish the Kamakura Shogunate in 1192.
   Yoshitsune's tragic life has been treated as a most popular subject in many Japanese folklores.   The various stories of Yoshitsune Minamoto and Musashibo-Benkei have been described in a number of works of Japanese literature for centuries.
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(Thursday 6 January) Takadachi-Gikei-do (Takadachi Hall of Yoshitsune Minamoto) with the view of River Kitakami and Hill of Tabashine
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(Thursday 6 January) A haiku monument of Matsuo Basho, Takadachi-Gikei-do (Takadachi Hall of Yoshitsune Minamoto):
  
  夏草や (Natsukusa ya)
  兵どもが (Tsuwamono-domo ga)
  夢の跡 (Yume no Ato)
  Grass in summer
  Is all that remains of the utopia
  Of great samurai.
    (trans. Eishiro Ito)

  The haiku is said to have been dedicated to Yoshitsune Minamoto and his retainers.  Cf. "hrz2004-003."
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(Thursday 6 January) A monument of Mikisaburo Rai's long poem titled "Song of Hiraizumi" (1846), Takadachi-Gikei-do (Takadachi Hall of Yoshitsune Minamoto)
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(Thursday 6 January) A view of River Kitakami and Hill of Tabashine, Takadachi-Gikei-do (Takadachi Hall of Yoshitsune Minamoto)
  
     
Musashibo Benkei
     Musashibo-Benkei (武蔵坊弁慶)'s Grave near Chuson-ji Temple.  He was a very faithful retainer of Yoshitsune Minamoto: When his master was attacked by the 500 troops of Yasuhira Fujiwara who was persistently threatened by Yoshitsune's brother Yoritomo Minamoto, only 10 retainers including Benkei, Kanefusa Juro Mashinoo (増尾十郎兼房), Kisanta (喜三太), Hachiro Kataoka (片岡八郎), Saburo Suzuki (鈴木三郎) tried to guard Yoshitsune and his family until their end in his mansion at Takadachi.  He was said to have been dead standing in front of the Japanese pine tree (see below) in 1189.  People buried his body (first in the mansion site and then moved it here) and erected the five storied pagoda for the repose of his soul.   Later the stone monument of Socho (素鳥), a monk of Chuson-ji Temple's haiku poem, writes:
    
  色かえぬ (Irokaenu)
  松のあるじや (Matsu no Aruji ya)
  武蔵坊 (Musashibo)
  Musashibo, the faithful retainer,
  Is the master of the pine tree
  Which never changes the color.
    (trans. Eishiro Ito)
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(Tuesday 3 May) Musashibo-Benkei's Grave near Chuson-ji Temple
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(Tuesday 3 May) Musashibo-Benkei's Grave near Chuson-ji Temple
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(Tuesday 3 May) Musashibo-Benkei's Grave near Chuson-ji Temple
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(Tuesday 3 May) Musashibo-Benkei's Grave near Chuson-ji Temple
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(Tuesday 3 May) Musashibo-Benkei's death place in the backyard of the restaurant "Rest House" near Chuson-ji Temple (the opposite side across the route 4).  According to the legend, after serving his master and his family till their end, Benkei continued to fight until his strength failed him.  He was told to be dead standing here, wounded by many arrows and stabbed by some swords.
  
     
Kinkei-zan Hill
     Kinkei-zan (金鶏山, 98.6 m) is a small hill to the west of Muryoko-in (無量光院), the temple complex of Hidehira Fujiwara.  The toponym Kinkei-zan is written with the ideographs for "gold chicken mountain [hill]," but contrary to the legends supporting this choice of appellation there is no golden chicken statue buried at the peak.  Kinkei-zan's other name gives a much greater hint to the hill's true identity.  Kyozuka-yama, or "hill of sutra mound," refers to the Buddhist sutra canons buried at the peak of this hill.
  The Azuma Kagami (『吾妻鏡』) entry cataloguing 1189 Hiraizumi relates that there was a gate between Muryoko-in and Kara-no-Gosho.  Before the fall of Hiraizumi, walking in a straight line eastward from this gate one would first cross a long bridge over Muryoko-in's pond to the central island.  The island was connected to Muryoko-in's Amida (Skt. Amitabha) Hall by another, shorter bridge.  And along this same westward trajectory, the extraordinary Amida Hall is clearly set against the background of Kinkei-zan.  Thus, it was possible to worship both the resplendent Amida and the magnificent setting sun simultaneously.  This is a perfect iteration of the Pure Land faith (浄土信仰) placing Amida's realm in the west.
  Thus, Kinkei-zan is not merely a borrowed scenic backdrop for Muryoko-in, but a spiritual object in itself, an appropriate resting place for the sutras.
    (Quoted from: "Mt. Kinkeizan" of the "For The World Heritage-- Hiraizumi's Cultural Heritage" site)
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(Sunday 22 May) Senjyu-in (千手院) Site, a branch temple of Motsu-ji Temple, is known as Kinkei-zan, the sacred hill where the Oshu-Fujiwara family worshipped and reportedly buried their infinite treasures including the chicken
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(Sunday 22 May) Senjyu-do Hall at the foot of Kinkei-zan Hill
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(Sunday 22 May) Entrance Gate of Kinkei-zan Hill
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(Sunday 22 May) Information Board of the grave of Lord Yoshitsune Minamoto and his family, at the entrance gate of Kinkei-zan Hill: On April 30, 1189 when he and his family were attacked by the troops of the fourth Hiraizumi lord Yasuhira Fujiwara who was threatened by Yoshitsune's brother Yoritomo Minamoto, the leader of Kamakura, Yoshitsune reportedly thought that the time had come.  Soon he killed his wife and his child, and then killed himself at his mansion known as Takadachi near the Kitakami River.  The original site of the gravestones was in the precincts of Senjyu-in Temple at the foot of Kinkei-zan Hill, about 300 meters northwest from the present place.  Even now people never forget to hold a memorial service for Yoshitsune and his family regularly.
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(Sunday 22 May) Grave of Lord Yoshitsune Minamoto and his family, at the entrance gate of Kinkei-zan Hill
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(Sunday 22 May) Grave of Lord Yoshitsune Minamoto and his family, at the entrance gate of Kinkei-zan Hill
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(Sunday 22 May) Near the top of Kinkei-zan Hill
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(Sunday 22 May) Inner Red Gate of Kinkei-zan Hill, viewed from the inside of the gate: the eastern view towards the town center
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(Sunday 22 May) Inner Red Gate of Kinkei-zan Hill
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(Sunday 22 May) Small shrine at the top of Kinkei-zan Hill
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(Sunday 22 May) A northwest view (towards Koromokawa) from the top of Kinkei-zan Hill



        


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