JOYCEAN PICS 2005
Belfast
Contents of This Page

  Belfast Central Railway Station, Bridge Street
  River Lagan
  Royal Courts of Justice, Chichester Street
  City Hall, Donegall Sq.
  Donegall Sq.
  Howard St.
  The Grand Opera House
  The Europe Hotel (Belfast's best hotel; 4-star)
  The Crown Liquor Saloon, 46 Great Victoria St.
  Great Victoria Street Baptist Church
  Crescent Church
  "Four Seasons" (Chinese restaurant), Dublin Rd.
  BBC Belfast Building
  The Queen's University of Belfast
  Botanic Gardens Park
  Ulster Museum
CONTENTS 2005
   1  Prague IASIL 2005
   2  Prague, Jews and Joyce
   3  Prague: miscellanea
   4  Ceske Budejovice (Post-Conference Tour)
   5  Cesky Krumlov (Post-Conference Tour)
   6  Trebon (Post-Conference Tour)
   7  Jindrichuv Hradec (Post-Conference Tour)
   8  Cervena Lhota (Post-Conference Tour)
   9  Dublin and Joyce
  10  Dublin: miscellanea
  11  Limerick
  12  Galway
  13  Inis Oirr, the Aran Islands
  14  Cork
  15  Blarney
  16  Belfast

Belfast

8 August 2005

  
  Belfast is quite unlike any other city, Irish or British.  Its unique charisma derives from a curious mixture of identities, it sense of separateness, and, of course, the notoriety it has received as a center of conflict.  Belfast combines the hard-headed proletarian quality of a large industrial town with the dignified self-confidence of a respectable and well-to-do provincial capital.  It was a great Victorian success story, a boom town whose prosperity was built on trade: Linen and shipbuilding brought in most of the wealth.  Now Belfast struggles against decline; linen is no longer a major industry here, and shipbuilding has suffered severe setbacks.  The quaysides along the River Lagan, however, are still impressively active, and the dry dock is one of the world's largest.
  The city's central district, lying west of the docks, extends from the City Hall to St. Anne's Cathedral.  The area is alive with commerce, shops, cafes, pubs, and historic (but now modernized) streets.  Large redbrick or white Portland stone Victorian banks, as well as offices and department stores, occupy this old heart, symbols of Belfast's high standing before the creation of the Irish Free State.  Now the whole of this district is pedestrian for security reasons; the roads are closed to traffic by sturdy green railings with police checkpoints.
  Perhaps the most astonishing thing about Belfast is its setting -- high wild heath-green slopes rise abruptly at the end of the city-center streets.  Until the Plantation period at the beginning of the 17th century, Belfast was an insignificant village called Beal Feirste (meaning "Sandback Ford").  In the 1600s the district, formerly belonging to Ulster's ancient O'Neill clan, was granted to Sir Arthur Chichester, who was from Devon in southwest England.  Chichester's son was made earl of Donegall, and he initiated the building of the town; he is remembered in many of the street names.  A century later, French Huguenots (i.e., Protestants) fleeing persecution settled here, bringing their valuable skills in linen work.  In the 18th century, Belfast saw a phenomenal expansion, with the population doubling in size every ten years.  The sectarian divide appeared during the 19th century when Presbyterian ministers began to preach bitterly against the town's Catholic residents.  But the town's growth continued, factories were built, and industry expanded.  In 1849, Queen Victoria paid a visit, and she is recalled in the names of buildings, streets, bars, monuments, and other places around the city.  In the same year, the university opened and took the name Queen's College.  Victoria granted Belfast full city status in 1888.  Today its population is over 600,000 (1999)--- more than one-third of all Northern Ireland's citizens. (Cf. Ed. Caroline V. Haberfeld, Fodor's Ireland 1995, New York: Fodor's Travel Publications, Inc., 1994)
  
  

  
  There are many references to Belfast in Joyce's works:
  
  It is true that in recent months there were two violent deaths in Ireland, but at the hands of British troops in Belfast, where the soldiers fired without warning on an unarmed crowd and killed a man and woman.  There were attacks on cattle; but not even these were in Ireland, where the crowd was content to open the stalls and chase the cattle through several miles of streets, but at Great Wyrley in England, where for six years bestial, maddened criminals have ravaged the cattle to such an extent that the English companies will no longer insure them. ("39. Ireland at the Bar," [Il Piccolo della Sera, September 16, 1907], Critical Writings, p.200)
  
  
... Then a man from Belfast bought the field and built houses in it - not like their little brown houses, but bright brick houses with shining roofs. ("Eveline, "009-11; Dubliners, Gabler & Hettche 1991)
  
... She [Maria] took out her purse with the silver clasps and read again the words A Present from Belfast.  She was very fond of that purse because Joe had brought it to her five years before when he and Alphy had gone to Belfast on a Whit-Monday trip.  In the purse were two half-crowns and some coppers.  She would have five shillings clear after paying the tram fare.  What a nice evening they would have, all the children singing!  Only she hoped that Joe wouldn't come in drunk.  He was so different when he took any drink. ("Clay," 025-33; Dubliners, Gabler & Hettche 1991)
  
... Her [Mrs Kernan] two eldest sons were launched. One was in a draper's shop in Glasgow and the other was clerk to a tea-merchant in Belfast. They were good sons, wrote regularly and sometimes sent home money. The other children were still at school. ("Grace," 201-4; Dubliners, Gabler & Hettche 1991)
  
  
  Stephen looked coldly on the oblong Skull beneath him overgrown with tangled twine-coloured hair.  The voice, the accent, the mind of the questioner offended him and he allowed the offence to carry him towards wilful unkindness, bidding his mind think that the student's father would have done better had he sent his son to Belfast to study and have saved something on the train fare by so doing. (A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, Gabler & Hettche 1993, V.0692-98)
  
  
05.017.    In Westland row he halted before the window of the Belfast and
05.018.  Oriental Tea Company and read the legends of leadpapered packets: choice
05.019.  blend, finest quality, family tea.  Rather warm.  Tea.  Must get some from
05.020.  Tom Kernan [See "Grace"].  Couldn't ask him at a funeral, though. While his eyes still (Ulysses)
  
5.151.  -- My wife [Molly] too, he [Bloom] said.  She's going to sing at a swagger affair in the Ulster
5.152.  Hall, Belfast, on the twentyfifth. (Ulysses)
  
05.188.  Thought that Belfast would fetch him.  I hope that smallpox up there
05.189.  doesn't get worse.  Suppose she wouldn't let herself be vaccinated again.
05.190.  Your wife and my wife. (Ulysses)
  
10.0389.  --Hello.  Yes, sir.  No, sir.  Yes, sir.  I [Miss Dunne]'ll ring them up after five.  Only those
10.0390.  two, sir, for Belfast and Liverpool.  All right, sir.  Then I can go after six if
10.0391.  you're not back.  A quarter after.  Yes, sir.  Twentyseven and six.  I'll tell him [Boylan].
10.0392.  Yes: one, seven, six. (Ulysses)
  
13.1274.    Short snooze now if I [Bloom] had.  Must be near nine.  Liverpool boat long
13.1275.  gone..   Not even the smoke.  And she [Molly] can do the other.  Did too.  And Belfast.
13.1276.  I won't go.  Race there, race back to Ennis.  Let him [Boylan].  Just close my eyes a
13.1277.  moment.  Won't sleep, though.  Half dream.  It never comes the same.  Bat
13.1278.  again.  No harm in him.  Just a few. (Ulysses)
  
  
17.1973.  In Ireland?
  
17.1974.  The cliffs of Moher, the windy wilds of Connemara, lough Neagh with
17.1975.  submerged petrified city, the Giant's Causeway, Fort Camden and Fort
17.1976.  Carlisle, the Golden Vale of Tipperary, the islands of Aran, the pastures of
17.1977.  royal Meath, Brigid's elm in Kildare, the Queen's Island shipyard in
17.1978.  Belfast, the Salmon Leap, the lakes of Killarney. (Ulysses)
  
18.0347.  England home and beauty when I was whistling there is a charming girl I
18.0348.  love and I hadnt even put on my clean shift or powdered myself or a thing
18.0349.  then this day week were to go to Belfast just as well he has to go to Ennis
18.0350.  his fathers anniversary the 27th it wouldnt be pleasant if he did suppose our
18.0351.  rooms at the hotel were beside each other and any fooling went on in the
18.0352.  new bed I couldnt tell him to stop and not bother me with him in the next
18.0353.  room or perhaps some protestant clergyman with a cough knocking on the
18.0354.  wall then hed never believe the next day we didnt do something its all very
18.0355.  well a husband but you cant fool a lover after me telling him we never did
18.0356.  anything of course he didnt believe me no its better hes going where he is (Ulysses)
  
18.0403.  Tugela his father made his money over selling the horses for the cavalry
18.0404.  well he could buy me a nice present up in Belfast after what I gave him
18.0405.  theyve lovely linen up there or one of those nice kimono things I must buy a
18.0406.  mothball like I had before to keep in the drawer with them it would be
18.0407.  exciting going round with him shopping buying those things in a new city
18.0408.  better leave this ring behind want to keep turning and turning to get it over (Ulysses)
  
  

IMAGE
IMAGE NO.
DATA
Central Station
  
  Belfast Central Railway Station, Bridge Street
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(Monday 8 August) Belfast Central Railway Station, Bridge Street
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(Monday 8 August) Belfast Central Railway Station, Bridge Street
  
  
  
River Lagan
  
  
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(Monday 8 August) River Lagan; a southern view from Albert Bridge (near Central Station)
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(Monday 8 August) River Lagan; a northern view from Albert Bridge
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(Monday 8 August) Inscription of Albert Bridge over River Lagan
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(Monday 8 August) Albert Bridge over River Lagan
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(Monday 8 August) Newtownards Road
  
  
  
Royal Courts of Justice
  
  Royal Courts of Justice, Chichester Street
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(Monday 8 August) Royal Courts of Justice, Chichester Street
  
  
  
City Hall
  
  City Hall, Donegall Sq. was built in 1906.  It dominates Belfast's central Donegall Square with its columns and the dome.
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(Monday 8 August) City Hall, Donegall Sq.
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(Monday 8 August) Statue of Queen Victoria, City Hall
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(Monday 8 August) A monument commemorating the unlucky ocean liner Titanic, City Hall: The ship was made in Belfast and collided with an iceberg off Newfoundland and went down during its maiden trip in 1912; 1,513 people died.
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(Monday 8 August) A monument commemorating the unlucky ocean liner Titanic, City Hall
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(Monday 8 August) A monument commemorating the unlucky ocean liner Titanic, City Hall
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(Monday 8 August) A monument commemorating the unlucky ocean liner Titanic, City Hall
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(Monday 8 August) A monument commemorating the unlucky ocean liner Titanic, City Hall
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(Monday 8 August) A monument commemorating the unlucky ocean liner Titanic, City Hall
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(Monday 8 August) A monument commemorating the unlucky ocean liner Titanic, City Hall
  
  
  
Donegall Sq.
  
  Donegall Sq.
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(Monday 8 August) Scottish Provident Institute, Donegall Sq. W.
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(Monday 8 August) A branch of Northern Bank, Donegall Sq. N.
  
  
  
Howard St.
  
  Howard St.
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(Monday 8 August) Howard St.
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(Monday 8 August) A building, Howard St.
  
  
  
Grand Opera House
  
  The Grand Opera House, Great Victoria St.  This typical Victorian theatre, built in 1895, retains its original, richly decorated auditorium, where heavy gilt moldings, ornamental plasterwork, and frescoes depict Asian themes.  It reopened in 1980.
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(Monday 8 August) The Grand Opera House, Great Victoria St.  This typical Victorian theatre, built in 1895, retains its original, richly decorated auditorium, where heavy gilt moldings, ornamental plasterwork, and frescoes depict Asian themes.  It reopened in 1980.
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(Monday 8 August) The Grand Opera House, Great Victoria St.
  
  
  
Europe Hotel
  
  The Europe Hotel (Belfast's best hotel; 4-star), Great Victoria St.
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(Monday 8 August) The Europe Hotel (Belfast's best hotel; 4-star), Great Victoria St.
  
  
  
Crown Liquor Saloon
  
  The Crown Liquor Saloon, 46 Great Victoria St.  It is owned by the United Kingdom's official conservationist charity, the National Trust, dates from the end of the 19th century and has been kept in immaculate condition, with opulent ornamentation, richly carved woodwork around cozy snugs (private rooms), leather seats, colored tiles, and abundant mirrors.
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(Monday 8 August) The Crown Liquor Saloon, 46 Great Victoria St.  It is owned by the United Kingdom's official conservationist charity, the National Trust, dates from the end of the 19th century and has been kept in immaculate condition, with opulent ornamentation, richly carved woodwork around cozy snugs (private rooms), leather seats, colored tiles, and abundant mirrors.
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(Monday 8 August) The Crown Liquor Saloon, 46 Great Victoria St.
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(Monday 8 August) The Crown Liquor Saloon, 46 Great Victoria St.
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(Monday 8 August) Interior of the Crown Liquor Saloon
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(Monday 8 August) A snug of the Crown Liquor Saloon
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(Monday 8 August) My cider in the snug of the Crown Liquor Saloon
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(Monday 8 August) My lunch (Irish stew) in the snug of the Crown Liquor Saloon
  
  
  
Great Victoria Street Baptist Church
  
  Great Victoria Street Baptist Church
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(Monday 8 August) Great Victoria Street Baptist Church
  
  
  
Crescent Church
  
  Crescent Church
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(Monday 8 August) Crescent Church, viewed from University Rd.
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(Monday 8 August) Crescent Church, viewed from University Rd.
  
  
  
"Four Seasons"
  
  "Four Seasons" (Chinese restaurant), Dublin Rd.
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(Monday 8 August) "Four Seasons" (Chinese restaurant), Dublin Rd.
  
  
  
BBC Belfast Building
  
  BBC Belfast Building, Ormeau Avenue (Bedford St.)
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(Monday 8 August) BBC Belfast Building, Ormeau Avenue (Bedford St.)
  
  
  
Queen's University
  
  The Queen's University of Belfast was constructed in the 1840s.  It is modeled on the colleges at Oxford University in England, with their spires, turrets, and fine stonework.  University Square, adjacent to Queen's, is another architectural treasure with its Georgian terraces.
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(Monday 8 August) The Queen's University of Belfast, University Rd.
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(Monday 8 August) The Queen's University of Belfast, University Rd.
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(Monday 8 August) Statue of Queen Victoria, The Queen's University of Belfast, University Rd.
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(Monday 8 August) Statue of Queen Victoria, The Queen's University of Belfast, University Rd.
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(Monday 8 August) The center hall of the Queen's University of Belfast, University Rd.
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(Monday 8 August) The Seamus Heaney Library at Queen's.  The 1995 winner of Nobel Prize in Literature Seamus Heaney (1939-) graduated from this university.  However, the poet moved to Dublin, Republic of Ireland in 1972 and still lives there with his family.
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(Monday 8 August) The Seamus Heaney Library at Queen's
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(Monday 8 August) Courtyard of Queen's
  
  
  
Botanic Gardens
  
  Botanic Gardens opened to the public in 1920.
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(Monday 8 August) Front Gate to Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Palm House, Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Interior of Palm House, Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Interior of Palm House, Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Botanic Gardens Park
  
  
  
Ulster Museum
  
  Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens Park
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(Monday 8 August) Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens Park.  Courtesy of Ulster Museum
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(Monday 8 August) Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens Park.  Courtesy of Ulster Museum
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(Monday 8 August) Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens Park.  Courtesy of Ulster Museum




        


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