JOYCEAN PICS 2008
Tours and Joyce
Contents of This Page


  Hotel de l'Univers
  Musee des Beaux-Arts Tours
  Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours (The Tours Cathedral)
  Musee Saint-Martin
  Basilique de St-Martin
  Tours Charlemagne
  Statue of Francois Rabelais, Rue des Tanneurs
CONTENTS 2008
   1  Tours IJJF Symposium 2008: "Re-Nascent Joyce"
   2  Tours and Joyce
   3  Tours: miscellanea
   4  La Maison du Vouvray
   5  Boat Trip down the Loire
   6  Chateau Royal or the Da Vinci Court, Amboise
   7  Paris and Joyce
   8  Paris: miscellanea
   9  Mont-Saint-Michel
  10  Dublin, Jew and Joyce: "Jublin"
  11  Dublin: miscellanea
  12  Athlone
  13  Clonmacnoise (Cluain Mhic Nois)
  14  Belfast: "You Are Now Entering Loyalist Sandy Row"
  15  Carrickfergus Castle
  16  The Hurry Head, East Antrim (Co. Antrim)
  17  Carrick-a-Rede
  18  The Old Bushmills Distillery Co. Ltd.
  19  Dunluce Castle
  20  The Giant's Causeway
  21  Seoul JJSK Conference 2008
  22  Seoul: miscellanea 2008

Tours and Joyce

  The connection between James Joyce and Tours is not small.  In fact, Joyce visited the city twice: in 1903 and 1923.   During his stay in Paris between 1902-1903, he was able to take two trips away from the city according to Richard Ellmann's definitive biography James Joyce (1959/1982): One was to Nogent, where he watched the confluence of the Seine and the Marne, and the other was to Tours (Ellmann 126).  "Joyce made friends with a Siamese who was also reading at the Bibliotheque Sainte-Genevieve, and arranged with him to go to Tours to hear a remarkable tenor sing there at the cathedral" (Ellmann 126).  On the way he picked up at a railway kiosk (unidentified so far) a book by Edouard Dujardin, titled Les Lauriers sont coupes (1888).  Needless to say, the book greatly influenced Joyce who borrowed the literary technique of the interior monologue for composing Ulysses.
  His second visit to the city was between 27 August - 3 September 1923 on the way back from the family summer vacation in London and Bognor Regis shortly before he began work on what he then called "Here Comes Everybody."  The Joyces stayed one week at the existing four-star hotel "Hotel de l'Univers" near the train station.
  The "Welcome remarks" of the programme of "XXIst International James Joyce Symposium 'Re-Nascent Joyce'" notes:

The presence of Tours in Joyce's work is also ambiguous: Joyce took expensive notes from a life of Saint Martin of Tours, but few of these notes ever reached Finnegans Wake.  On the other hand, Saint Martin is said to be a nephew of Saint Patrick and, as he is described in his hagiographies sounds very much like the sanctimonious Kevin -- but this could be merely a coincidence, as it is certainly a coincidence that Saint Martin was born in Szombathely, like Bloom's father. (p.9)

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Hotel de l'Univers
     This four-star hotel was established in 1846.  the Joyces stayed here between 27 August - 3 September 1923 on the way back from the family summer vacation in London and Bognor Regis shortly before he began work on what he then called "Here Comes Everybody."  Later Ernest Hemingway stayed here and favored the bar inside.
  This property faces the Tours town hall, and boasts a convenient location in the midst of a lively shopping area, only a few meters from the Vinci Congress Centre (the venue of XXIst International James Joyce Symposium 'Re-Nascent Joyce'").  Notable guest portraits (displayed on the wall of the hotel's portrait gallery) include Winston Churchill, Edith Piaf, Ernest Hemingway and Katharine Hepburn, but no portrait of James Joyce yet!.  The address is: Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours.  Go to the official site of Hotel de l'Univers.
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(Sunday 15 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours: the hotel's portrait gallery (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours: the hotel's portrait gallery (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours: the hotel's portrait gallery (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours (courtesy of Hotel de l'Univers)
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
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(Monday 16 June) Hotel de l'Univers - 5 boulevard Heurteloup - FR 37000 Tours
  
     
Musee des Beaux-Arts
     Musee des Beaux-Arts Tours is located next to The Tours Cathedral (Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours).It is proud of paintings by Degas, Delacroix, Rembrandt, and Boucher and the sculpture collection includes works by Houdon and Bourdelle.  The address is: 18, place Francois Sicard 37000 - Tours.  Go to the official site of Musees de la Region Centre.
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(Sunday 15 June) Entrance to Musee des Beaux-Arts Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) "Cedre du Liban" (Cedar of Lebanon, planted in 1804; hauteur: 31 m; envergure: 33 m) in the garden of Musee des Beaux-Arts Tours
  
     
Cathedrale St-Gatien
     The Tours Cathedral (Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours) honors a third-century evangelist and has a Flamboyant Gothic facade flanked by towers with bases from the twelfth century.  The lanterns date to the Renaissance.  The choir is from the thirteenth century, with new additions built in each century through the sixteenth.  Sheltered inside is the handsome sixteenth-century tomb of Charles VIII and Anne de Bretagne's two children.  Some of the glorious stained-glass windows are from the thirteenth century.  The cathedral is about 100 m in length, 28 m in width, with ceilings as high as 29 m within.
  "Joyce made friends with a Siamese who was also reading at the Bibliotheque Sainte-Genevieve, and arranged with him to go to Tours to hear a remarkable tenor sing there at the cathedral" (Ellmann 126).
  The address is: 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours.  Go to the official site of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours.
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, viewed from the garden of Musee des Beaux-Arts Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) Interior of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) The picture of St-Martin of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
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(Sunday 15 June) The picture of Jesus Christ of Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours, 5 place de la Cathedrale, Tours
  
     
Musee St-Martin
     The Musee Saint-Martin, opened in 1990, was created by the City of Tours and the Amis des sites martiniens to house the principal archeological remains of the successive basilicas built on the site of the tomb of the third Bishop of Tours (371-397).  It is housed in the former chapel of Saint-Jean (13th century) next to the basilica's cloister.  This chapel, which replaced a baptistery founded by Gregoire de Tours, has housed the relics of St-Martin on a number of occasions.  The museum forms part of the St Martin itinerary developed in Tours by the Centre Culturel Europeen Saint Martin de Tours, which in 2005 was named a "Major Cultural Route of the Council of Europe" with the theme "St Martin of Tours, a great European figure, a symbol of sharing and common values."
  The address is: Musee Saint-Martin, Tours, 3, rue Rapin 37000 Tours.
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(Tuesday 17 June) Musee Saint-Martin, Tours, 3, rue Rapin 37000 Tours.  Like most museums in France, they close on Monday and Tuesday....
  
     
Basilique de St-Martin
     Basilique de St-Martin (Basilica of St. Martin) in Tours is a neo-Byzantine basilica on the site of previous churches built in honor of St. Martin, bishop of Tours in the 4th century.  Next to it are two Romanesque towers and a Renaissance cloister surviving from the earlier basilica.  It is a Roman Catholic Church.  The present building was constructed between 1886-1924 and it is still active as a church.


St. Martin of Tours


  
(*Quoted from Catholic Encyclopedia)

Bishop; born at Sabaria (today Steinamanger in German, or Szombathely in Hungarian), Pannonia (Hungary), about 316; died at Candes, Touraine, most probably in 397.  In his early years, when his father, a military tribune, was transferred to Pavia in Italy, Martin accompanied him thither, and when he reached adolescence was, in accordance with the recruiting laws enrolled in the Roman army.  Touched by grace at an early age, he was from the first attracted towards Christianity, which had been in favor in the camps since the conversion of Emperor Constantine.  His regiment was soon sent to Amiens in Gaul, and this town became the scene of the celebrated legend of the cloak.  At the gates of the city, one very cold day, Martin met a shivering and half-naked beggar.  Moved with compassion, he divided his coat into two parts and gave one to the poor man.  The part kept by himself became the famous relic preserved in the oratory of the Frankish kings under the name of "St. Martin's cloak."  Martin, who was still only a catechumen, soon received baptism, and was a little later finally freed from military service at Worms on the Rhine.  As soon as he was free, he hastened to set out to Poitiers to enrol himself among the disciples of St. Hilary, the wise and pious bishop whose reputation as a theologian was already passing beyond the frontiers of Gaul.  Desiring, however, to see his parents again, he returned to Lombardy across the Alps.  The inhabitants of this region, infested with Arianism, were bitterly hostile towards Catholicism, so that Martin, who did not conceal his faith, was very badly treated by order of Bishop Auxentius of Milan, the leader of the heretical sect in Italy.  Martin was very desirous of returning to Gaul, but, learning that the Arians troubled that country also and had even succeeded in exiling Hilary to the Orient, he decided to seek shelter on the island of Gallinaria (now Isola d'Albenga) in the middle of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
  As soon as Martin learned that an imperial decree had authorized Hilary to return to Gaul, he hastened to the side of his chosen master at Poitiers in 361, and obtained permission from him to embrace at some distance from there in a deserted region (now called Liguge) the solitary life that he had adopted in Gallinaria.  His example was soon followed, and a great number of monks gathered around him.  Thus was formed in this Gallic Thebaid a real laura, from which later developed the celebrated Benedictine Abbey of Liguge.  Martin remained about ten years in this solitude, but often left it to preach the Gospel in the central and western parts of Gaul, where the rural inhabitants were still plunged in the darkness of idolatry and given up to all sorts of gross superstitions.  The memory of these apostolic journeyings survives to our day in the numerous local legends of which Martin is the hero and which indicate roughly the routes that he followed.  When St. Lidorius, second Bishop of Tours, died in 371 or 372, the clergy of that city desired to replace him by the famous hermit of Liguge.  But, as Martin remained deaf to the prayers of the deputies who brought him this message, it was necessary to resort to a ruse to overcome his resistance.  A certain Rusticius, a rich citizen of Tours, went and begged him to come to his wife, who was in the last extremity, and to prepare her for death. Without any suspicions, Martin followed him in all haste, but hardly had he entered the city when, in spite of the opposition of a few ecclesiastical dignitaries, popular acclamation constrained him to become Bishop of the Church of Tours.
  Consecrated on 4 July, Martin brought to the accomplishment of the duties of his new ministry all the energy and the activity of which he had already given so many proofs. He did not, however, change his way of life: fleeing from the distractions of the large city, he settled himself in a small cell at a short distance from Tours, beyond the Loire. Some other hermits joined him there, and thus was gradually formed a new monastery, which surpassed that of Liguge, as is indicated by the name, Marmoutier (Majus Monasterium), which it has kept to our own day.  Thus, to an untiring zeal Martin added the greatest simplicity, and it is this which explains how his pastoral administration so admirably succeeded in sowing Christianity throughout Touraine.  Nor was it a rare occurrence for him to leave his diocese when he thought that his appearance in some distant locality might produce some good.  He even went several times to Trier, where the emperors had established their residence, to plead the interests of the Church or to ask pardon for some condemned person.  His role in the matter of the Priscillianists and Ithacians was especially remarkable.  Against Priscillian, the Spanish heresiarch, and his partisans, who had been justly condemned by the Council of Saragossa, furious charges were brought before Emperor Maximus by some orthodox bishops of Spain, led by Bishop Ithacius.  Martin hurried to Trier, not indeed to defend the Gnostic and Manichaean doctrines of Priscillian, but to remove him from the secular jurisdiction of the emperor.  Maximus at first acceded to his entreaty, but, when Martin had departed, yielded to the solicitations of Ithacius and ordered Priscillian and his followers to be beheaded.  Deeply grieved, Martin refused to communicate with Ithacius.  However, when he went again to Trier a little later to ask pardon for two rebels, Narses and Leucadius, Maximus would only promise it to him on condition that he would make his peace with Ithaeius.  To save the lives of his clients, he consented to this reconciliation, but afterwards reproached himself bitterly for this act of weakness.
  After a last visit to Rome, Martin went to Candes, one of the religious centres created by him in his diocese, when he was attacked by the malady which ended his life.  Ordering himself to be carried into the presbytery of the church, he died there in 400 (according to some authorities, more probably in 397) at the age of about 81, evincing until the last that exemplary spirit of humility and mortification which he had ever shown.  The Church of France has always considered Martin one of her greatest saints, and hagiographers have recorded a great number of miracles due to his intercession while he was living and after his death. His cult was very popular throughout the Middle Ages, a multitude of churches and chapels were dedicated to him, and a great number of places have been called by his name. His body, taken to Tours, was enclosed in a stone sarcophagus, above which his successors, St. Britius and St. Perpetuus, built first a simple chapel, and later a basilica (470).  St. Euphronius, Bishop of Autun and a friend of St. Perpetuus, sent a sculptured tablet of marble to cover the tomb.  A larger basilica was constructed in 1014 which was burned down in 1230 to be rebuilt soon on a still larger scale This sanctuary was the centre of great national pilgrimages until 1562, the fatal year when the Protestants sacked it from top to bottom, destroying the sepulchre and the relics of the great wonder-worker, the object of their hatred.  The ill-fated collegiate church was restored by its canons, but a new and more terrible misfortune awaited it.  The revolutionary hammer of 1793 was to subject it to a last devastation. It was entirely demolished with the exception of the two towers which are still standing and, so that its reconstruction might be impossible, the atheistic municipality caused two streets to be opened up on its site.  In December, 1860, skillfully executed excavations located the site of St. Martin's tomb, of which some fragments were discovered.  These precious remains are at present sheltered in a basilica built by Mgr Meignan, Archbishop of Tours which is unfortunately of very small dimensions and recalls only faintly the ancient and magnificent cloister of St. Martin. On 11 November each year the feast of St. Martin is solemnly celebrated in this church in the presence of a large number of the faithful of Tours and other cities and villages of the diocese. (Copyright 2008 by Kevin Knight)
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(Tuesday 17 June) Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Statue of St-Martin on the top of Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Statue of St-Martin on the top of Basilique de St-Martin
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(Tuesday 17 June) Statue of St-Martin on the top of Basilique de St-Martin
  
     
Tours Charlemagne
     Saint Martin, bishop of Tours, died in 397 and was buried in an early Christian cemetery.  His successor, St. Brice, had a chapel built over the tomb.  A remarkable Basillica was built by Bishop Perpetuus (458-488) and consecrated on the 4th July 471.  A fire totally destroyed the castrum sancti Martini in 994.  The treasurer Herve decided upon the construction of a new church, work on which lasted from 1003 to 1014.  Numerous fires struck the Basilica, which was repaired, transformed and rebuilt between 1096 and 1175.  From 1175-1180, the church vaults were rebuilt, probably in the Plantagenet style.  In the thirteenth century, a double ambulatory chancel was added, in the style of the Cathedral of Bourges.  During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, work proceeded on the interior of church (chapel installations, etc...).  The edifice was pillaged by the Huguenots in 1562.  During the revolution, it was turned into stables.  In 1797 the vaults collapsed.  Partially ruined, the edifice was demolished and in 1802 the housing development around the actual "rue des Halles" was undertaken by the Prefet Pommereul.  All that remains today, to give an idea of the scale and dimensions of the original building, are the Clock Tower and the Charlemagne Tower.  The site of the tomb of Saint Martin is conserved in the crypt of the Basilica, built in the nineteenth century and designed by Victor Laloux.  The markings visible on the "rue des Halles" correspond to the positions of the nave and transcept columns of the original builtind. (Referred to the information board of "Basilique Saint Martin.")
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(Tuesday 17 June) Information board of "Basilique Saint Martin."  See above information.
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(Tuesday 17 June) The Charlemagne Tower, Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) The Charlemagne Tower, Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) The Charlemagne Tower, Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) The Charlemagne Tower, Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) The Charlemagne Tower, Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) The Charlemagne Tower, Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) The Charlemagne Tower, Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) Tours Charlemagne
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(Tuesday 17 June) Tours Charlemagne
  
     
Statue of Francois Rabelais
     Statue of Francois Rabelais, Rue des Tanneurs near Bords de Loire.
  Francois Rabelais (c. 1494 - April 9, 1553; the pseudonym Alcofribas Nasier [an anagram of Francois Rabelais minus the cedilla on the c]) was a major French Renaissance writer, doctor and humanist.  He is regarded as an avant-garde writer of fantasy, satire, the grotesque, dirty jokes and bawdy songs.  Particularly his serial novels La vie de Gargantua et de Pantagruel (The Life of Gargantua and of Pantagruel, written between 1532-1542) greatly influenced numerous writers in later ages including Jonathan Swift, Laurence Sterne and James Joyce.
  Since Rabelais is said to have been born near Chinon, Indre-et-Loire, the public university in Tours, the central city of the region, is named l'Universite Francois Rabelais and this statue stands near the humanities campus of the university.
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(Tuesday 17 June) Statue of Francois Rabelais, Rue des Tanneurs near Bords de Loire.
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(Tuesday 17 June) Statue of Francois Rabelais, Rue des Tanneurs near Bords de Loire.
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(Tuesday 17 June) Statue of Francois Rabelais, Rue des Tanneurs near Bords de Loire.




        


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