JOYCEAN PICS 2010
County Wicklow (Contae Chill Mhantain)
Contents of This Page


  [U 11.0619 & 16.0006; FW 205.26 & 290.19] Vartry Reservoirs
  [U 12.1451; FW 248.30 & 605.11] Glendalough (Gleann Da Loch)
  [U 10, 18, etc.] The site of the former Glencree Reformatory School
  
  
  
CONTENTS 2010
   1  Prague IJJF Symposium 2010@Charles University Prague (Univerzita Karlova v Praze)
   2  Prague (Praha) and Joyce
   3  Prague (Praha): miscellanea
   4  Konopiste Chateau (Zamek Konopiste/Schloss Konopischt)
   5  Pivovar Velke Popovice (Kozel Brewery)
   6  Terezin (Theresienstadt): "ARBEIT MACHT FREI"
   7  Ceske Budejovice (Bohmisch Budweis) (Post-Conference Tour)
   8  Hluboka Chateau (Zamek Hluboka/Schloss Frauenberg) (Post-Conference Tour)
   9  Cesky Krumlov (Krumau an der Moldau) (Post-Conference Tour)
  10  Trebon (Wittingau) (Post-Conference Tour)
  11  Cervena Lhota Chateau (Zamek Cervena Lhota) (Post-Conference Tour)
  12  Dublin (Baile Atha Cliath) and Joyce
  13  Dublin (Baile Atha Cliath): miscellanea
  14  The Hill of Tara (Temair na Ri), County Meath
  15  Trim Castle (Caislean Bhaile Atha Troim), County Meath
  16  Newgrange (Si an Bhru), County Meath
  17  County Wicklow (Contae Chill Mhantain)
  18  Amsterdam (I amsterdam)
  19  Marken, Waterland, Noord-Holland
  20  Boat Trip from Marken to Volendam
  21  Volendam, Edam-Volendam, Noord-Holland
  22  Zaanse Schans, Zaandam, Noord-Holland
  23  Seoul JJSK Conference 2010
  24  Seoul: miscellanea 2010

County Wicklow (Contae Chill Mhantain)



Wednesday 23 June 2010


  County Wicklow (Irish: Contae Chill Mhantain) is one of the twenty-six counties of the Republic of Ireland and one of the thirty-two counties of Ireland.  It is located in the province of Leinster.  It was named after the town of Wicklow, which derives from the Old Norse name Vikingalag or Wykynlo.  The population of the county is 126,194 according to the 2006 census.  Wicklow is the 17th largest of Ireland's 32 counties in area and 17th largest in terms of population.  It is the fourth largest of Leinster's 12 counties in size and fifth largest in terms of population.
  County Wicklow was the last of the original counties to be established in 1606 from land previously part of County Dublin and County Carlow.  Established as a distinct county, it was aimed at controlling local groups such as the O'Byrnes.  The Military Road, stretching from Rathfarnham to Aghavannagh crosses the mountains, north to south, was built by the British army to assist them in defeating the rebels still active in the Wicklow Mountains following the failed 1798 rebellion.  It provided them with access to an area that had been a hotbed of Irish rebellion for centuries.  Several barracks to house the soldiers were built along the route and the Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation was built alongside the remains of barracks there.   Battalions of the Irish Army use firing ranges in County Wicklow for tactical exercises, especially the largest one in the Glen of Imaal which was previously used by the British Army prior to independence.  The ancient monastery of Glendalough is located in County Wicklow.
  The Wicklow Mountains are the largest continuous upland region in Ireland.  The highest mountain in the range, Lugnaquilla, rises to 925 metres giving Wicklow the second highest county peak after Kerry.  The Wicklow Way is the oldest waymarked long distance walking trail in Ireland, and the area is a popular attraction, as the region offers multiple choices of recreation including fishing, rafting and hill walking.  Also in its midst lies the monastic settlement of Glendalough, believed to have been founded by St. Kevin, and now a popular tourist attraction; as well as Powerscourt Waterfall, the highest waterfall in Ireland.  Rivers in Wicklow include the Avoca and the Liffey.  Other natural features include Lough Dan and Lough Tay, and the lakes of Glendalough.  The Turlough Hill pumped-storage scheme, a significant civil engineering project, was carried out in the mountains in the 1960s and 1970s.  Ireland's first offshore wind farm is located off the coast at Arklow Bank.  (Referred to the site of "Wikipedia")


  Finally here I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Eamonn Finn who kindly offered me this wonderful Joycean tour with his car.


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Vartry Reservoirs
     [U 11.0619 & 16.0006; FW 205.26 & 290.19] Vartry Reservoirs, County Wicklow:

Ulysses

11.0619.  Particular about his drink.  Flaw in the glass, fresh Vartry water.  Fecking
11.0620.  matches from counters to save.  Then squander a sovereign in dribs and
11.0621.  drabs.  And when he's wanted not a farthing.  Screwed refusing to pay his
11.0622.  fare.  Curious types.

16.0004.  His (Stephen's) mind was not exactly what you would call wandering but a
16.0005.  bit unsteady and on his expressed desire for some beverage to drink Mr
16.0006.  Bloom in view of the hour it was and there being no pump of Vartry water
16.0007.  available for their ablutions let alone drinking purposes hit upon an
16.0008.  expedient by suggesting, off the reel, the propriety of the cabman's shelter,


Finnegans Wake

205.25:  Phoenix Tavern or Power's Inn or Jude's Hotel or wherever you 205.26:  scoured the countryside from Nannywater to Vartryville or from 205.27:  Porta Lateen to the lootin quarter you found his ikom etsched

290.18:  iselands, O alors! to mount miss (the wooeds of Fogloot!) under
290.19:  that chemise de and a vartryproof name, Multalusi (would it
290.20:  wash?) with a cheek white peaceful as, wen shall say, a single pro-
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(Wednesday 23 June) Information board of Vartry Reservoirs, County Wicklow which says:
  
  Between 1862 and 1868, Lower Vartry Reservoir was formed by constructing a dam (on which you are standing) across the valley of the River Vartry.  To provide additional shortage, a second dam, 3.5 km upstream, was completed in 1923, forming the Upper Reservoir.  Both dams are earthen embankments with waterproof clay cores and have a stone facing on the upstream slope to prevent wave erosion.  
  The Lower Reservoir has a capacity of 11,300 million litres and a maximum water depth of 18.3 metres.  The Upper Reservoir has a capacity of 5,600 million litres and a maximum water depth of 13.4 metres.  On your right is the Draw Off Tower, through which water is abstracted from the reservoir and conveyed by pipe under the dam to the water treatment plant behind you.  (Dublin City Council)
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(Wednesday 23 June) Me by Lower Vartry Reservoir.  Photo by Eamonn Finn.
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(Wednesday 23 June) Eamonn Finn by Lower Vartry Reservoir.
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Draw Off Tower of the Lower Vartry Reservoir
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Draw Off Tower of the Lower Vartry Reservoir
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(Wednesday 23 June) Me in front of the Draw Off Tower of the Lower Vartry Reservoir
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Draw Off Tower of the Lower Vartry Reservoir
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(Wednesday 23 June) Lower Vartry Reservoir
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(Wednesday 23 June) The valley of the River Vartry, viewed from the Draw Off Tower
  
  
  
Glendalough
  
  [U 12.1451; FW 248.30 & 605.11] Glendalough (Irish: Gleann Da Loch, meaning "Glen of Two Lakes") is a glacial valley located in County Wicklow, Ireland, renowned for its Early Medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a hermit priest, and destroyed in 1398 by English troops.
  Kevin, a descendant of one of the ruling families in Leinster, studied as a boy under the care of three holy men, Eoghan, Lochan, and Eanna.  During this time, he went to Glendalough.  He was to return later, with a small group of monks to found a monastery where the 'two rivers form a confluence'. Kevin's writings discuss his fighting a "monster" at Glendalough; scholars today believe this refers to his process of self-examination and his personal temptations.  His fame as a holy man spread and he attracted numerous followers.  He died in about 618.  For six centuries afterwards, Glendalough flourished and the Irish Annals contain references to the deaths of abbots and raids on the settlement.  At the Synod of Rath Breasail in 1111, Glendalough was designated as one of the two dioceses of North Leinster.  The Book of Glendalough was written there about 1131.  St. Laurence O'Toole, born in 1128, became Abbot of Glendalough and was well known for his sanctity and hospitality.  Even after his appointment as Archbishop of Dublin in 1162, he returned occasionally to Glendalough, to the solitude of St. Kevin's Bed.  He died in Eu, in Normandy in 1180.  In 1214, the dioceses of Glendalough and Dublin were united. From that time onwards, the cultural and ecclesiastical status of Glendalough diminished.  The destruction of the settlement by English forces in 1398 left it a ruin but it continued as a church of local importance and a place of pilgrimage.  Glendalough features on the 1598 map "A Modern Depiction of Ireland, One of the British Isles" by Abraham Ortelius as "Glandalag."  Descriptions of Glendalough from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries include references to occasions of "riotous assembly" on the feast of St. Kevin on 3 June.
  The present remains in Glendalough tell only a small part of its story.  The monastery in its heyday included workshops, areas for manuscript writing and copying, guest houses, an infirmary, farm buildings and dwellings for both the monks and a large lay population.  The buildings which survive probably date from between the tenth and twelfth centuries.  (Referred to the site of "Wikipedia")
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Gateway to the monastic city of Glendalough.  It is s one of the most important monuments, now totally unique in Ireland.  It was originally two-storied with two fine, granite arches.  The antae or projecting walls at each end suggest that it had a timber roof. Inside the gateway, in the west wall, is a cross-inscribed stone.  This denoted sanctuary, the boundary of the area of refuge.  The paving of the causeway in the monastic city is still preserved in part but very little remains of the enclosure wall.  (Referred to the site of "Wikipedia")
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(Wednesday 23 June) The monastic city of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Round Tower of Glendalough.
  This fine tower, built of mica-slate interspersed with granite is about 30 metres high, with an entrance 3.5 metres from the base.  The conical roof was rebuilt in 1876 using the original stones.  The tower originally had six timber floors, connected by ladders.  The four storeys above entrance level are each lit by a small window; while the top storey has four windows facing the cardinal compass points.  Round towers, landmarks for approaching visitors, were built as bell towers, but also served on occasion as store-houses and as places of refuge in times of attack.  (Referred to the site of "Wikipedia")
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Round Tower of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) Me with the background of the Round Tower of Glendalough.  Photo by Eamonn Finn.
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Round Tower of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Round Tower of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Round Tower of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough.
  The largest and most imposing of the buildings at Glendalough, the cathedral had several phases of construction, the earliest, consisting of the present nave with its antae.  The large mica-shist stones which can be seen up to the height of the square-headed west doorway were re-used from an earlier smaller church.  The chancel and sacristy date from the late twelfth and early thirteenth centuries.  The chancel arch and east window were finely decorated, through many of the stones are now missing.  The north doorway to the nave also dates from this period.  Under the southern window of the chancel is an ambry or wall cupboard and a piscina, a basin used for washing the sacred vessels.  A few metres south of the cathedral an early cross of local granite, with an unpierced ring, is commonly known as St. Kevin's Cross.  (Referred to the site of "Wikipedia")
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) Me at the Cathedral of Glendalough.  Photo by Eamonn Finn.
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) The Cathedral of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) St. Kevin's Church or "Kitchen" of Glendalough.
  This stone-roofed building originally had a nave only, with entrance at the west end and a small round-headed window in the east gable.   The upper part of the window can be seen above what became the chancel arch, when the chancel (now missing) and the sacristy were added later.  The steep roof, formed of overlapping stones, is supported internally by a semi-circular vault.  Access to the croft or roof chamber was through a rectangular opening towards the western end of the vault.  The church also had a timber first floor.  The belfry with its conical cap and four small windows rises from the west end of the stone roof in the form of a miniature round tower.  (Referred to the site of "Wikipedia")
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(Wednesday 23 June) St. Kevin's Church or "Kitchen" of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) St. Kevin's Church or "Kitchen" of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) St. Kevin's Church or "Kitchen" of Glendalough
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(Wednesday 23 June) St. Kevin's Church or "Kitchen" of Glendalough
  
  
  
Glencree Reformatory School
  
  The site of the former Glencree Reformatory School (1858-1940, which was operated by the Oblates of Mary Immaculate (OMI), is now The Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation (opened in 1975): It is a non-governmental charitable organization located in Republic of Ireland.  Its goal is to promote peace and reconciliation, especially as a response to the Troubles and its aftermath..


Glencree are mentioned in Ulysses:


10.0536.  --There was a long spread out at Glencree reformatory, Lenehan said
10.0537.  eagerly.  The annual dinner, you know. Boiled shirt affair.  The lord mayor
10.0538.  was there, Val Dillon it was, and sir Charles Cameron and Dan Dawson
10.0539.   spoke and there was music.  Bartell d'Arcy sang and Benjamin Dollard .....


15.1797.              DR DIXON

15.1798.  (reads a bill of health) Professor Bloom is a finished example of the new
15.1799.  womanly man.  His moral nature is simple and lovable. Many have found
15.1800.  him a dear man, a dear person.  He is a rather quaint fellow on the whole,
15.1801.  coy though not feebleminded in the medical sense.  He has written a really
15.1802.  beautiful letter, a poem in itself, to the court missionary of the Reformed
15.1803.  Priests' Protection Society which clears up everything.  He is practically a
15.1804.  total abstainer and I can affirm that he sleeps on a straw litter and eats the
15.1805.  most Spartan food, cold dried grocer's peas. He wears a hairshirt of pure
15.1806.  Irish manufacture winter and summer and scourges himself every
15.1807.  Saturday.  He was, I understand, at one time a firstclass misdemeanant in
15.1808.  Glencree reformatory.  Another report states that he was a very posthumous
15.1809.  child.  I appeal for clemency in the name of the most sacred word our vocal
15.1810.  organs have ever been called upon to speak.  He is about to have a baby.

Also, "the Glencree dinner," LB and MB had once, is repeatedly mentioned throughout Ulysses (U 08.0160, 13.0891, 18.0427 and 18.1285).

Reformatory Schools were institutions, certified by the Reformatory Schools Act (1858), that cared for juvenile offenders.  They were run by religious orders, funded by the public, and regularly inspected. In 1904, there were 6 reformatory schools in Ireland.  Three were for boys: Malone, Belfast; Philipstown, King's Co; St Kevins', Glencree (est. 1858).  Three were for girls: High Park, Dublin; St Joseph, Limerick; Spark's Lake, Monaghan (Thom's 1904).  This PC shows Marlborough Hall, Glasnevin, a Reformatory School est. 1905.  (Cited from "Joyce Images | Circe" by Aida Yared)
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(Wednesday 23 June) The site of the former Glencree Reformatory School, Glencree, Co. Wicklow: The information board of the Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation
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(Wednesday 23 June) The site of the former Glencree Reformatory School, Glencree, Co. Wicklow; now the Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation
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(Wednesday 23 June) The site of the former Glencree Reformatory School, Glencree, Co. Wicklow; now the Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation
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(Wednesday 23 June) Me at the site of the former Glencree Reformatory School, Glencree, Co. Wicklow; now the Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation
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(Wednesday 23 June) The site of the former Glencree Reformatory School, Glencree, Co. Wicklow; now the Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation




        


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