As early as the first century, the Romans had a settlement at Gorsium near Tac, 17 km to the south.  When Arpad arrived late in the ninth century, the surrounding marshes and the Sarviz River offered protection - the same reason Prince Geza built his castle here less than 100 years later.  But it was Geza's son, King Stephen I, who raised the status of Szekesfehervar by building a fortified basilica in what he called Alba Regia.  Hungary's kings (and some of its queens) would be crowned and buried here for the next 500 years.  In fact, the city's seemingly unpronounceable name (sake-kesh-fehair-vahr) means 'Seat of the White Castle,' as it was the royal capital and white was the king's color.
  With Visegrad, Esztergom and Buda, Szekesfehervar served as an alternative royal capital for centuries, and it was here in 1222 that King Andrew II was forced by his servientes (mercenaries) to sign the Golden Bull, an early bill of rights.  The Turks captured Szekesfehervar in 1543 and used Stephen's basilica to store gunpowder.  It exploded during a siege in 1601; when the Turks left in 1688, the town, the basilica and the royal tombs were in ruins.
  Stephen, and much less Arpad, would hardly recognize today's Szekesfehervar.  The stones from his basilica were used to construct the Bishop's Palace in 1801; several decades later, the marshland was drained and the Sarviz was diverted.  The city had been at a crossroads since the eleventh century, when crusaders (on a budget) from Western Europe passed through Szekesfehervar on their way to the Adriatic Sea.  The arrival of the railway in the 1860s turned the city into a transport hub.
  In March 1945 the Germans launched the last big counteroffensive of WWII near Szekesfehervar.  Though the fighting razed the city's outskirts (the historic centre was left more or less intact), it opened the way for postwar industrial development.  (Cf. Steve Fallon & Neal Bedford, Hungary, 230-31.)
  

  Connection with Joyce: Szekesfehervar is one of the three Hungarian cities which are connected with the fictional Jewish family Virag: see the following part of Ulysses:

17.1873.  What other objects relative to Rudolph Bloom (born Virag) were in the 2nd
17.1874.  drawer?

17.1875.  An indistinct daguerreotype of Rudolf Virag and his father Leopold Virag
17.1876.  executed in the year 1852 in the portrait atelier of their (respectively) 1st
17.1877.  and 2nd cousin, Stefan Virag of Szesfehervar, Hungary.  An ancient
17.1878.  haggadah book in which a pair of hornrimmed convex spectacles inserted
17.1879.  marked the passage of thanksgiving in the ritual prayers for Pessach
17.1880.  (Passover): a photocard of the Queen's Hotel, Ennis, proprietor, Rudolph
17.1881.  Bloom: an envelope addressed: To My Dear Son Leopold.

IMAGE	IMAGE NO.	DATA
Train Station		Szekesfehervar train station
	szk2003-043	(Sunday 6 July) The train station
	szk2003-046	(Sunday 6 July) The train station
	szk2003-045	(Sunday 6 July) The relief of the train station
	szk2003-044	(Sunday 6 July) A square in front of the station
Gate to the Inner City		Gate to the Inner City, viewed from Hotel Alba Regia
	szk2003-001	(Sunday 6 July) Gate to the Inner City, viewed from Hotel Alba Regia
Medieval Ruins Park		Medieval Ruins Park or Garden of Ruins ("Rombert"), Koronazo ter
	szk2003-002	(Sunday 6 July) Medieval Ruins Park or Garden of Ruins ("Rombert"), Koronazo ter
	szk2003-003	(Sunday 6 July) Medieval Ruins Park or Garden of Ruins ("Rombert"), Koronazo ter
	szk2003-009	(Sunday 6 July) Medieval Ruins Park
	szk2003-008	(Sunday 6 July) The stained glass of the chamber, Medieval Ruins Park
	szk2003-004	(Sunday 6 July) The doleful-looking white marble sarcophagus in the chamber is thought to contain the remains of Geza, Stephen or his young son, Prince Imre.  Medieval Ruins Park.
	szk2003-005	(Sunday 6 July) The doleful-looking white marble sarcophagus in the chamber is thought to contain the remains of Geza, Stephen or his young son, Prince Imre.  Medieval Ruins Park.
	szk2003-006	(Sunday 6 July) The Wall paintings by Vilmos Aba Novak, Medieval Ruins Park
	szk2003-007	(Sunday 6 July) The Wall paintings by Vilmos Aba Novak, Medieval Ruins Park
	szk2003-010	(Sunday 6 July) A small amount of excavation of the site continues.  Medieval Ruins Park.
Fehervar Law		Fehervar Law (The Orb), Varoshaz ter.  The globe symbolizes the historic past and significance of the city.  A Latin inscription running around the orb says that Szekesfehervar was granted its franchise by St. Stephen.  The Orb is the work of Bela Ohmann.  (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-012	(Sunday 6 July) Fo Street building of the King St. Stephen Museum and the Church of St. John of Nepomuk.  Viewed from Varoshaz ter
	szk2003-013	(Sunday 6 July) Fehervar Law (The Orb), Varoshaz ter.  The globe symbolizes the historic past and significance of the city.  A Latin inscription running around the orb says that Szekesfehervar was granted its franchise by St. Stephen.  The Orb is the work of Bela Ohmann.  (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-011	(Sunday 6 July) Fehervar Law (The Orb), Varoshaz ter.  The globe symbolizes the historic past and significance of the city.  A Latin inscription running around the orb says that Szekesfehervar was granted its franchise by St. Stephen.  The Orb is the work of Bela Ohmann.  (Andras Magyarits)
The Episcopal See		The Episcopal See, Varoshaz Square, facing the Franciscan monastery.  With its fine proportions, natural and clear divisions, and delicate details it is one of Hungary's best late baroque-neoclassic buildings.  The two-story building faces three streets.  The main facade is sectioned into three parts by a huge central projection.  Above is a large pediment with a richly ornamented baroque spiscopal coat-of-arms.  The furniture is in the Empire and Biedermeyer styles, and a 40 thousand codices and incunabula. (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-015	(Sunday 6 July) The Episcopal See, Varoshaz Square, facing the Franciscan monastery.  With its fine proportions, natural and clear divisions, and delicate details it is one of Hungary's best late baroque-neoclassic buildings.  The two-story building faces three streets.  The main facade is sectioned into three parts by a huge central projection.  Above is a large pediment with a richly ornamented baroque spiscopal coat-of-arms.  The furniture is in the Empire and Biedermeyer styles, and a 40 thousand codices and incunabula. (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-014	(Sunday 6 July) The Episcopal See, Varoshaz Square, facing the Franciscan monastery.  With its fine proportions, natural and clear divisions, and delicate details it is one of Hungary's best late baroque-neoclassic buildings.  The two-story building faces three streets.  The main facade is sectioned into three parts by a huge central projection.  Above is a large pediment with a richly ornamented baroque spiscopal coat-of-arms.  The furniture is in the Empire and Biedermeyer styles, and a 40 thousand codices and incunabula. (Andras Magyarits)
Franciscan monastery		Franciscan monastery (Museum of the Diocese), 4 Varoshaz ter.  On the Varoshaz ter corner of the monastery is a wall fountain with Turkish motifs.  Above it is Ferenc Medgyessy's relief of Turkish-Hungarian battles, completed in 1938 for the anniversary of the city's liberation from Turkish rule.  In the keystone of the monastery's stone-framed gate stands the date 1736.  (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-016	(Sunday 6 July) Franciscan monastery (Museum of the Diocese), 4 Varoshaz ter.  On the Varoshaz ter corner of the monastery is a wall fountain with Turkish motifs.  Above it is Ferenc Medgyessy's relief of Turkish-Hungarian battles, completed in 1938 for the anniversary of the city's liberation from Turkish rule.  In the keystone of the monastery's stone-framed gate stands the date 1736.  (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-017	(Sunday 6 July) Franciscan Church, Varoshaz ter.  On the side of the church facing Varoshaz ter is an aluminum-cast copy of the famous 1892 sculpture Christ on the Cross by Janos Fadrusz.  Over the stone-framed main portal is the coat-of-arms of the Esterhazys.  (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-018	(Sunday 6 July) Franciscan monastery (Museum of the Diocese), 4 Varoshaz ter
Monument to the 10th Hussar Regiment with City Hall		Monument to the 10th Hussar Regiment with City Hall.  The sculpture by Pal Patzay stands at the beginning of Arany Janos Street.  The exquisite bronze work depicts a nude equestrian holding up a sword.  It stands out among Szekesfehervar's statues both for its artistic beauty and its location.  (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-020	(Sunday 6 July) Monument to the 10th Hussar Regiment with City Hall.  The sculpture by Pal Patzay stands at the beginning of Arany Janos Street.  The exquisite bronze work depicts a nude equestrian holding up a sword.  It stands out among Szekesfehervar's statues both for its artistic beauty and its location.  (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-019	(Sunday 6 July) Monument to the 10th Hussar Regiment with City Hall.  The sculpture by Pal Patzay stands at the beginning of Arany Janos Street.  The exquisite bronze work depicts a nude equestrian holding up a sword.  It stands out among Szekesfehervar's statues both for its artistic beauty and its location.  (Andras Magyarits)
Megyehaz utca		Statue of an old lady, ? Megyehaz utca
	szk2003-021	(Sunday 6 July) Statue of an old lady, ? Megyehaz utca
St. Anne's Chape		St. Anne's Chapel (Szent Anna Kapolna), Arany Janos utca, just north of St. Stephen's Cathedral .  Built around the same time, with additions (the tower, for example) made some centuries later.  The Turks used the chapel as a place of worship; you can still see the remains of a painting from that era.
	szk2003-022	(Sunday 6 July) St. Anne's Chapel (Szent Anna Kapolna), Arany Janos utca, just north of St. Stephen's Cathedral .  Built around the same time, with additions (the tower, for example) made some centuries later.  The Turks used the chapel as a place of worship; you can still see the remains of a painting from that era.
Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz		Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem.  It was constructed in 1470 and originally dedicated to Sts Peter and Paul, but what you see today is essentially an eighteenth-century baroque church.  The ceiling frescoes inside were painted by Johannes Cymbal in 1768.  On the paving stones in front of the cathedral are foundation outlines of an earlier (perhaps tenth century) church.
	szk2003-024	(Sunday 6 July) Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem.  It was constructed in 1470 and originally dedicated to Sts Peter and Paul, but what you see today is essentially an eighteenth-century baroque church.  The ceiling frescoes inside were painted by Johannes Cymbal in 1768.  On the paving stones in front of the cathedral are foundation outlines of an earlier (perhaps tenth century) church.
	szk2003-025	(Sunday 6 July) Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem.  It was constructed in 1470 and originally dedicated to Sts Peter and Paul, but what you see today is essentially an eighteenth-century baroque church.  The ceiling frescoes inside were painted by Johannes Cymbal in 1768.  On the paving stones in front of the cathedral are foundation outlines of an earlier (perhaps tenth century) church.
	szk2003-023	(Sunday 6 July) Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem.  It was constructed in 1470 and originally dedicated to Sts Peter and Paul, but what you see today is essentially an eighteenth-century baroque church.  The ceiling frescoes inside were painted by Johannes Cymbal in 1768.  On the paving stones in front of the cathedral are foundation outlines of an earlier (perhaps tenth century) church.
	szk2003-027	(Sunday 6 July) Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem.  Generally the church is locked but you can get a glimpse of the inside through its glass door: that is what I did.
	szk2003-028	(Sunday 6 July) Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem
	szk2003-029	(Sunday 6 July) Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem.  The wooden crucifix on the cathedral's northern wall is dedicated to the victims of the 1956 Uprising.
	szk2003-030	(Sunday 6 July) Szent Istvan szekesegyhaz (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Geza nagyfejedelem.  The wooden crucifix on the cathedral's northern wall is dedicated to the victims of the 1956 Uprising.
The Budenz House		The Budenz House: The YBL Collection ("Budenz-Haz: YBL-Gyujtemeny"), Arany Janos utca 12.  The Budenz House is named after its former owner Jozsef Budenz from Germany.  He was the founder of Hungarian comparative linguistics.  The characteristic "copf stile" facade of the house was shaped in 1781.  The rest is Ybl Ervin's collection of the fine and applied arts.
	szk2003-031	(Sunday 6 July) The Budenz House: The YBL Collection ("Budenz-Haz: YBL-Gyujtemeny"), Arany Janos utca 12.  The Budenz House is named after its former owner Jozsef Budenz from Germany.  He was the founder of Hungarian comparative linguistics.  The characteristic "copf stile" facade of the house was shaped in 1781.  The rest is Ybl Ervin's collection of the fine and applied arts.
	szk2003-032	(Sunday 6 July) The Budenz House: The YBL Collection ("Budenz-Haz: YBL-Gyujtemeny"), Arany Janos utca 12
King St. Stephen Museum/Church of St. John of Nepomuk		Fo Street building of the King St. Stephen Museum and the Church of St. John of Nepomuk
	szk2003-033	(Sunday 6 July) Fo Street building of the King St. Stephen Museum and the Church of St. John of Nepomuk
	szk2003-034	(Sunday 6 July) Fo Street building of the King St. Stephen Museum and the Church of St. John of Nepomuk
Statue of Gyorgy Varkkocs		Statue of Gyorgy Varkkocs.  At the focal point of the winding little street, at the end of a long, narrow pool, stands this fine work of the 16th-century castellan by sculptor Dezso Erdey.  In 1543 Varkocs defended Szekesfehervar from the Turkish Sultan Suleiman II and died a hero when treacherous burghers of the town closed the gates before his retreating troops. (Andras Magyarits)
	szk2003-035	(Sunday 6 July) Statue of Gyorgy Varkkocs.  At the focal point of the winding little street, at the end of a long, narrow pool, stands this fine work of the 16th-century castellan by sculptor Dezso Erdey.  In 1543 Varkocs defended Szekesfehervar from the Turkish Sultan Suleiman II and died a hero when treacherous burghers of the town closed the gates before his retreating troops. (Andras Magyarits)
Fo utca/Fo ter
	szk2003-038	(Sunday 6 July) Fo ter
	szk2003-040	(Sunday 6 July) Fo utca
	szk2003-036	(Sunday 6 July) Vorosmarty Szinhaz (theatre), Fo utca
	szk2003-037	(Sunday 6 July) Vorosmarty Szinhaz (theatre), Fo utca
	szk2003-042	(Sunday 6 July) "Vorosmarty Cukraszda" (night club), Fo ter
Orszagzaszlo ter		Orszagzaszlo ter
	szk2003-041	(Sunday 6 July) Orszagzaszlo ter
	szk2003-039	(Sunday 6 July) Some city monument, Orszagzaszlo ter