JOYCEAN PICS 2003
Szombathely
Contents of This Page

  
  Szombathely Train station
  Fo ter
  Fo ter 40 (The real Blum family's home)
  Former Synagogue (Bela Bartok Concert Hall)
  Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
  The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12
  Garden of Ruins ("Romkert"; Roman ruins), Templom ter
  Szombathely Cathedral, Templom ter
  Bishop's Palace ("Puspoki Leveltar"), Berzeny Daniel ter 3
  Franciscan Church, Szent Marton utca
  City Hall, Kossuth Lajos utca
  Statue of Szily Janos (1735-99), Templom ter
  Tablet of Kossuth Lajos (1802-94), Kossuth Lajos utca
  "Galeria Isis Galerie," Berzsenyi Daniel ter
  A flea market, Nador utca
  Szelestey Laszlo utca
  "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca
  Belsikator utca
  A road sign, Rakoczi Ferenc
  Wagner Vendegudvar
CONTENTS 2003
   1  Debrecen IASIL 2003
   2  Debrecen, Jews and Joyce
   3  Debrecen: miscellanea
   4  Eger (Mid-Conference Tour)
   5  Szarvas and Opusztaszer (Post-Conference Tour)
   6  Szeged (Post-Conference Tour)
   7  Kecskemet (Post-Conference Tour)
   8  Visegrad (Post-Conference Tour)
   9  Szentendre (Post-Conference Tour)
  10  Esztergom (Post-Conference Tour)
  11  Budapest, Jews and Joyce (Post-Conference Tour, etc.)
  12  Szombathely
  13  Szekesfehervar
  14  The James Joyce Annual Summer School
  15  Dublin, Jews and Joyce
  16  Dublin: miscellanea
  17  Galway

Szombathely

  Szombathely (in German, Steinamanger) is a major crossroads in western Hungary.  Its name (som-bot-hay) can be translated as 'Saturday place' and refers to the important weekend markets held here in the Middle Ages.  For many Austrians who cross the border in search of cheap edibles and services, it remains just that.  In a Jewish connection, the name "Szombathely" can be interpreted as "Sabbath place" according to Ferenc Takacs (the Hungarian Joyce Society President), Eotvos Lorand University, Budapest in his Bloomsday lecture on June 16, 2006.
  Szombathely got an earlier start than most.  In 43 AD the Romans established a trade settlement called Savaria here on the all important Amber Route.  By the start of the 2nd century it was important enough to become the capital of Upper Pannonia.  Over the next few centuries, Savaria prospered and Christianity arrived; Martin of Tours, the patron saint of France, was born here in 316.  But attacks by Huns, Longobards and Avars weakened its defences, and then, in 455, it was destroyed by an earthquake.
  Szombathely began to develop again in the early Middle Ages, but the Mongols, then the Turks and the Habsburgs, put a stop to that.  It was not until 1777, when Janos Szily was appointed Szombathely's first bishop, that the city really began to flourish economically and culturally.  The building of the railway line to Graz brought further trade.  In 1945 Allied bombers levelled much of the town, which has since been rebuilt (though not very successfully in many parts).  (Cf. Steve Fallon & Neal Bedford, Hungary, 182.)


  



    Connection with Joyce: The Hungarian James Joyce Society, Szombathely was founded on 16 February, 2002, for Leopold Bloom's family background setting.  On the facade of the home of the Virags (or at least, the building assumed to have been theirs) in the main square ("Fo ter") of Szombathely, there is a memorial tablet (see the pics below) attracting the believers of the Joyce cult.  See also the following parts of Ulysses:

(1)
15.1852.        BRINI, PAPAL NUNCIO

15.1853.  (in papal zouave's uniform, steel cuirasses as breastplate, armplates,
15.1854.  thighplates, legplates, large profane moustaches and brown paper mitre)
15.1855.  Leopoldi autem generatio. Moses begat Noah and Noah begat Eunuch and
15.1856.  Eunuch begat O'Halloran and O'Halloran begat Guggenheim and
15.1857.  Guggenheim begat Agendath and Agendath begat Netaim and Netaim
15.1858.  begat Le Hirsch and Le Hirsch begat Jesurum and Jesurum begat MacKay
15.1859.  and MacKay begat Ostrolopsky and Ostrolopsky begat Smerdoz and
15.1860.  Smerdoz begat Weiss and Weiss begat Schwarz and Schwarz begat
15.1861.  Adrianopoli and Adrianopoli begat Aranjuez and Aranjuez begat Lewy
15.1862.  Lawson and Lewy Lawson begat Ichabudonosor and Ichabudonosor begat
15.1863.  O'Donnell Magnus and O'Donnell Magnus begat Christbaum and
15.1864.  Christbaum begat ben Maimun and ben Maimun begat Dusty Rhodes and
15.1865.  Dusty Rhodes begat Benamor and Benamor begat Jones-Smith and
15.1866.  Jones-Smith begat Savorgnanovich and Savorgnanovich begat Jasperstone
15.1867.  and Jasperstone begat Vingtetunieme and Vingtetunieme begat
15.1868.  Szombathely and Szombathely begat Virag and Virag begat Bloom et
15.1869.  vocabitur nomen eius Emmanuel.


(2)
15.2311.        VIRAG

15.2312.  (heels together, bows) My name is Virag Lipoti, of Szombathely.  (he
15.2313.  coughs thoughtfully, drily) Promiscuous nakedness is much in evidence
15.2314.  hereabouts, eh?  Inadvertently her backview revealed the fact that she is not
15.2315.  wearing those rather intimate garments of which you are a particular
15.2316.  devotee.  The injection mark on the thigh I hope you perceived?  Good.

15.2317.        BLOOM

15.2318.  Granpapachi. But .....


(3)
17.0532.  What, the enclosures of reticence removed, were their respective
17.0533.  parentages?

17.0534.  Bloom, only born male transubstantial heir of Rudolf Virag (subsequently
17.0535.  Rudolph Bloom) of Szombathely, Vienna, Budapest, Milan, London and
17.0536.  Dublin and of Ellen Higgins, second daughter of Julius Higgins (born
17.0537.  Karoly) and Fanny Higgins (born Hegarty).  Stephen, eldest surviving male
17.0538.  consubstantial heir of Simon Dedalus of Cork and Dublin and of Mary,
17.0539.  daughter of Richard and Christina Goulding (born Grier).


(4)
17.1868.  Quote the textual terms of this notice.

17.1869.  I, Rudolph Virag, now resident at no 52 Clanbrassil street, Dublin,
17.1870.  formerly of Szombathely in the kingdom of Hungary, hereby give notice
17.1871.  that I have assumed and intend henceforth upon all occasions and at all
17.1872.  times to be known by the name of Rudolph Bloom.

17.1873.  What other objects relative to Rudolph Bloom (born Virag) were in the 2nd
17.1874.  drawer?

17.1875.  An indistinct daguerreotype of Rudolf Virag and his father Leopold Virag
17.1876.  executed in the year 1852 in the portrait atelier of their (respectively) 1st
17.1877.  and 2nd cousin, Stefan Virag of Szesfehervar, Hungary.  An ancient
17.1878.  haggadah book in which a pair of hornrimmed convex spectacles inserted
17.1879.  marked the passage of thanksgiving in the ritual prayers for Pessach
17.1880.  (Passover): a photocard of the Queen's Hotel, Ennis, proprietor, Rudolph
17.1881.  Bloom: an envelope addressed: To My Dear Son Leopold.


(5)
17.1905.  What first reminiscence had he of Rudolph Bloom (deceased)?

17.1906.  Rudolph Bloom (deceased) narrated to his son Leopold Bloom (aged 6) a
17.1907.  retrospective arrangement of migrations and settlements in and between
17.1908.  Dublin, London, Florence, Milan, Vienna, Budapest, Szombathely with
17.1909.  statements of satisfaction (his grandfather having seen Maria Theresia,
17.1910.  empress of Austria, queen of Hungary), with commercial advice (having
17.1911.  taken care of pence, the pounds having taken care of themselves).  Leopold
17.1912.  Bloom (aged 6) had accompanied these narrations by constant consultation
17.1913.  of a geographical map of Europe (political) and by suggestions for the
17.1914.  establishment of affiliated business premises in the various centres
17.1915.  mentioned.

IMAGE
IMAGE NO.
DATA
Train station
  
  Szombathely Train station
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(Sunday 6 July) Train station
  
  
  
Fo ter
  
  Fo ter, Szombathely
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter, Szombathely
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(Saturday 5 July) "Takarekszovetrezet" (bureau de change), Fo ter 38
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter
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(Sunday 6 July) Fo ter
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(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter
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(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter
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(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter
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(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter
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(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter
  
  
  
Fo ter 40
  
  Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40.  The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows.
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(Saturday 5 July) Backward of Fo ter 40
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(Saturday 5 July) Backward of Fo ter 40
  
  
  
Former Synagogue (now Bela Bartok Concert Hall)
  
   Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3.  This twin-towered Moorish building was designed in 1881 by the Viennese architect Ludwig Schone.  Today it houses a music school and the Bela Bartok Concert Hall.
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3.  This twin-towered Moorish building was designed in 1881 by the Viennese architect Ludwig Schone.  Today it houses a music school and the Bela Bartok Concert Hall.
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
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(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3.  This twin-towered Moorish building was designed in 1881 by the Viennese architect Ludwig Schone.
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(Saturday 5 July) This plaque marks the spot from which '4228 of our Jewish brothers and sisters were deported to Auschwitz on 4 July 1944.'  Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3
  
  
  
Jewish cemetery
  
  Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Saturday 5 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Saturday 5 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Saturday 5 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
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(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9
  
  
  
The Iseum
  
  The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12.  A grand 2nd-century complex of two temples dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis by Roman legionnaires.  When the smaller temple was excavated in the 1950s, the city decided to reconstruct it - with cement blocks.  Fortunately, someone has had the sense to right this wrong, and the temples are undergoing a facelit, which should be finished by 2005.
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(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12.  A grand 2nd-century complex of two temples dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis by Roman legionnaires.  When the smaller temple was excavated in the 1950s, the city decided to reconstruct it - with cement blocks.  Fortunately, someone has had the sense to right this wrong, and the temples are undergoing a facelit, which should be finished by 2005.
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(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12
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(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12
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(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12
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(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12
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(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12
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(Saturday 5 July) Billboard, Rakoczi Ferenc utca
  
  
  
Garden of Ruins
  
  Garden of Ruins ("Romkert"; Roman ruins), Templom ter.  Behind the cathedral and accessible from Templom ter, it contains a wealth of Savaria relics excavated here since 1938.  It has the beautiful mosaics of plants and geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century.  There are also remains of Roman road markers, a customs house, shops and the medieval castle walls.
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(Saturday 5 July) Garden of Ruins ("Romkert"; Roman ruins), Templom ter.  Behind the cathedral and accessible from Templom ter, it contains a wealth of Savaria relics excavated here since 1938.  It has the beautiful mosaics of plants and geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century.  There are also remains of Roman road markers, a customs house, shops and the medieval castle walls.
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(Saturday 5 July) Garden of Ruins
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(Saturday 5 July) Garden of Ruins
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(Saturday 5 July) Remains of Roman road markers, a customs house, shops and the medieval castle walls.  Garden of Ruins
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(Saturday 5 July) The geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century, Garden of Ruins
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(Saturday 5 July) The geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century, Garden of Ruins
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(Saturday 5 July) Holy Cross, Garden of Ruins
  
  
  
Szombathely Cathedral
  
  Szombathely Cathedral (1797) on Templom ter.  Allied bombing in the final days of WWII did not spare the Zopf-style cathedral.  Designed by Melchior Hefele for Bishop Szily in 1791, the cathedral was once covered in stucco work and frescoes by Franz Anton Maulbertsch and supported by grand marble columns.  They're now gone, of course, though a couple of Maulbertsch originals and a glorious red and white marble pulpit remain, breaking the monotomy of this sterile place.
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(Saturday 5 July) Szombathely Cathedral (1797) on Templom ter.  Allied bombing in the final days of WWII did not spare the Zopf-style cathedral.  Designed by Melchior Hefele for Bishop Szily in 1791, the cathedral was once covered in stucco work and frescoes by Franz Anton Maulbertsch and supported by grand marble columns.  They're now gone, of course, though a couple of Maulbertsch originals and a glorious red and white marble pulpit remain, breaking the monotomy of this sterile place.
  
  
  
Bishop's Palace
  
  Bishop's Palace ("Puspoki Leveltar"), Berzeny Daniel ter 3, south of the cathedral, miraculously survived the air raids
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(Saturday 5 July) Bishop's Palace ("Puspoki Leveltar"), Berzeny Daniel ter 3, south of the cathedral, miraculously survived the air raids
  
  
  
Franciscan Church
  
  Franciscan Church, Szent Marton utca
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(Saturday 5 July) Franciscan Church, Szent Marton utca
  
  
  
City Hall
  
  City Hall, Kossuth Lajos utca
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(Saturday 5 July) A wedding ceremony, City Hall
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(Saturday 5 July) Statue of City Hall, Kossuth Lajos utca
  
  
  
Statue of Szily Janos
  
  Statue of Szily Janos (1735-99), Templom ter
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(Saturday 5 July) Statue of Szily Janos (1735-99), Templom ter
  
  
  
Memorial tablet of Kossuth Lajos
  
  Memorial tablet of Kossuth Lajos (1802-94), Kossuth Lajos utca
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(Saturday 5 July) Memorial tablet of Kossuth Lajos (1802-94), Kossuth Lajos utca
  
  
  
Galeria Isis Galerie
  
  "Galeria Isis Galerie," Berzsenyi Daniel ter
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(Saturday 5 July) "Galeria Isis Galerie," Berzsenyi Daniel ter
  
  
  
Flea market
  
  Flea market, Nador utca (near the Jewish cemetery)
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(Sunday 6 July) Flea market, Nador utca (near the Jewish cemetery)
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(Sunday 6 July) Flea market, Nador utca
  
  
  
Szelestey Laszlo utca
  
  Szelestey Laszlo utca
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(Sunday 6 July) Szelestey Laszlo utca
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(Sunday 6 July) Szelestey Laszlo utca
  
  
  
"Haj Virag"
  
  "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca
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(Sunday 6 July) "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca
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(Sunday 6 July) "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca
  
  
  
Belsikator utca
  
  Belsikator utca (leading to Fo ter)
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(Sunday 6 July) Belsikator utca (leading to Fo ter)
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(Sunday 6 July) Spar near the post office in the backyard of Fo ter
  
  
  
A road sign
  
  A road sign, Rakoczi Ferenc
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(Saturday 5 July) A road sign, Rakoczi Ferenc
  
  
  
Wagner Vendegudvar
  
  Wagner Vendegudvar (Wagner Hotel), Kossuth Lajos utca 15 where I stayed in early july 2003.
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(Saturday 5 July) Wagner Vendegudvar (Wagner Hotel), Kossuth Lajos utca 15
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(Monday 7 July) Viewed from my room of Wagner Hotel, Kossuth Lajos u.15
  
  
  
Zsuzsa & Balazs
  
  Zsuzsa Angela Lang (Berzsenyi College, secretary of the Hungarian James Joyce Society, Szombathely) and her husband Balazs Hontanus Kertesz (translator) at their home
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(Sunday 6 July) Zsuzsa Angela Lang (Berzsenyi College, secretary of the Hungarian James Joyce Society, Szombathely) and her husband Balazs Hontanus Kertesz (translator) at their home
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(Sunday 6 July) Zsuzsa Angela Lang (Berzsenyi College, secretary of the Hungarian James Joyce Society, Szombathely) and her husband Balazs Hontanus Kertesz (translator) at their home
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Lilloo Raccoon
(date unknown) Lilloo Raccoon (Zsuzsa's cat), who, like Bloom's cat, is likely to mew, "Mkgnao! Mrkgnao! Mrkrgnao!" when she wants milk.  On 6 July, as I remember, "she sat at the window watching the evening invade the avenue" ("Eveline").  Photo presented by Zsuzsa Angela Lang




        


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