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Szombathely Train station Fo ter Fo ter 40 (The real Blum family's home) Former Synagogue (Bela Bartok Concert Hall) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12 Garden of Ruins ("Romkert"; Roman ruins), Templom ter Szombathely Cathedral, Templom ter Bishop's Palace ("Puspoki Leveltar"), Berzeny Daniel ter 3 Franciscan Church, Szent Marton utca City Hall, Kossuth Lajos utca Statue of Szily Janos (1735-99), Templom ter Tablet of Kossuth Lajos (1802-94), Kossuth Lajos utca "Galeria Isis Galerie," Berzsenyi Daniel ter A flea market, Nador utca Szelestey Laszlo utca "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca Belsikator utca A road sign, Rakoczi Ferenc Wagner Vendegudvar |
Szombathely (in German, Steinamanger) is a major crossroads in western Hungary. Its name (som-bot-hay) can be translated as 'Saturday place' and refers to the important weekend markets held here in the Middle Ages. For many Austrians who cross the border in search of cheap edibles and services, it remains just that. In a Jewish connection, the name "Szombathely" can be interpreted as "Sabbath place" according to Ferenc Takacs (the Hungarian Joyce Society President), Eotvos Lorand University, Budapest in his Bloomsday lecture on June 16, 2006.
Szombathely got an earlier start than most. In 43 AD the Romans established a trade settlement called Savaria here on the all important Amber Route. By the start of the 2nd century it was important enough to become the capital of Upper Pannonia. Over the next few centuries, Savaria prospered and Christianity arrived; Martin of Tours, the patron saint of France, was born here in 316. But attacks by Huns, Longobards and Avars weakened its defences, and then, in 455, it was destroyed by an earthquake.
Szombathely began to develop again in the early Middle Ages, but the Mongols, then the Turks and the Habsburgs, put a stop to that. It was not until 1777, when Janos Szily was appointed Szombathely's first bishop, that the city really began to flourish economically and culturally. The building of the railway line to Graz brought further trade. In 1945 Allied bombers levelled much of the town, which has since been rebuilt (though not very successfully in many parts). (Cf. Steve Fallon & Neal Bedford, Hungary, 182.)
IMAGE | ||
Train station | Szombathely Train station | |
(Sunday 6 July) Train station | ||
Fo ter | Fo ter, Szombathely | |
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter, Szombathely | ||
(Saturday 5 July) "Takarekszovetrezet" (bureau de change), Fo ter 38 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Fo ter | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Monument, Fo ter | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter | ||
Fo ter 40 | Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | |
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Fo ter 40. The real Blum family lived in this house in the middle of the 19th century as the memorial tablet shows. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Backward of Fo ter 40 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Backward of Fo ter 40 | ||
Former Synagogue (now Bela Bartok Concert Hall) | Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3. This twin-towered Moorish building was designed in 1881 by the Viennese architect Ludwig Schone. Today it houses a music school and the Bela Bartok Concert Hall. | |
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3. This twin-towered Moorish building was designed in 1881 by the Viennese architect Ludwig Schone. Today it houses a music school and the Bela Bartok Concert Hall. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3. This twin-towered Moorish building was designed in 1881 by the Viennese architect Ludwig Schone. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) This plaque marks the spot from which '4228 of our Jewish brothers and sisters were deported to Auschwitz on 4 July 1944.' Former Synagogue: Bela Bartok Concert Hall, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 3 | ||
Jewish cemetery | Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | |
(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Jewish cemetery, Majakovszkij ter 9 | ||
The Iseum | The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12. A grand 2nd-century complex of two temples dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis by Roman legionnaires. When the smaller temple was excavated in the 1950s, the city decided to reconstruct it - with cement blocks. Fortunately, someone has had the sense to right this wrong, and the temples are undergoing a facelit, which should be finished by 2005. | |
(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12. A grand 2nd-century complex of two temples dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis by Roman legionnaires. When the smaller temple was excavated in the 1950s, the city decided to reconstruct it - with cement blocks. Fortunately, someone has had the sense to right this wrong, and the temples are undergoing a facelit, which should be finished by 2005. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) The Iseum, Rakoczi Ferenc utca 12 | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Billboard, Rakoczi Ferenc utca | ||
Garden of Ruins | Garden of Ruins ("Romkert"; Roman ruins), Templom ter. Behind the cathedral and accessible from Templom ter, it contains a wealth of Savaria relics excavated here since 1938. It has the beautiful mosaics of plants and geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century. There are also remains of Roman road markers, a customs house, shops and the medieval castle walls. | |
(Saturday 5 July) Garden of Ruins ("Romkert"; Roman ruins), Templom ter. Behind the cathedral and accessible from Templom ter, it contains a wealth of Savaria relics excavated here since 1938. It has the beautiful mosaics of plants and geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century. There are also remains of Roman road markers, a customs house, shops and the medieval castle walls. | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Garden of Ruins | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Garden of Ruins | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Remains of Roman road markers, a customs house, shops and the medieval castle walls. Garden of Ruins | ||
(Saturday 5 July) The geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century, Garden of Ruins | ||
(Saturday 5 July) The geometrical designs on the floor of what was "St. Quirinus Basilica" in the 4th century, Garden of Ruins | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Holy Cross, Garden of Ruins | ||
Szombathely Cathedral | Szombathely Cathedral (1797) on Templom ter. Allied bombing in the final days of WWII did not spare the Zopf-style cathedral. Designed by Melchior Hefele for Bishop Szily in 1791, the cathedral was once covered in stucco work and frescoes by Franz Anton Maulbertsch and supported by grand marble columns. They're now gone, of course, though a couple of Maulbertsch originals and a glorious red and white marble pulpit remain, breaking the monotomy of this sterile place. | |
(Saturday 5 July) Szombathely Cathedral (1797) on Templom ter. Allied bombing in the final days of WWII did not spare the Zopf-style cathedral. Designed by Melchior Hefele for Bishop Szily in 1791, the cathedral was once covered in stucco work and frescoes by Franz Anton Maulbertsch and supported by grand marble columns. They're now gone, of course, though a couple of Maulbertsch originals and a glorious red and white marble pulpit remain, breaking the monotomy of this sterile place. | ||
Bishop's Palace | Bishop's Palace ("Puspoki Leveltar"), Berzeny Daniel ter 3, south of the cathedral, miraculously survived the air raids | |
(Saturday 5 July) Bishop's Palace ("Puspoki Leveltar"), Berzeny Daniel ter 3, south of the cathedral, miraculously survived the air raids | ||
Franciscan Church | Franciscan Church, Szent Marton utca | |
(Saturday 5 July) Franciscan Church, Szent Marton utca | ||
City Hall | City Hall, Kossuth Lajos utca | |
(Saturday 5 July) A wedding ceremony, City Hall | ||
(Saturday 5 July) Statue of City Hall, Kossuth Lajos utca | ||
Statue of Szily Janos | Statue of Szily Janos (1735-99), Templom ter | |
(Saturday 5 July) Statue of Szily Janos (1735-99), Templom ter | ||
Memorial tablet of Kossuth Lajos | Memorial tablet of Kossuth Lajos (1802-94), Kossuth Lajos utca | |
(Saturday 5 July) Memorial tablet of Kossuth Lajos (1802-94), Kossuth Lajos utca | ||
Galeria Isis Galerie | "Galeria Isis Galerie," Berzsenyi Daniel ter | |
(Saturday 5 July) "Galeria Isis Galerie," Berzsenyi Daniel ter | ||
Flea market | Flea market, Nador utca (near the Jewish cemetery) | |
(Sunday 6 July) Flea market, Nador utca (near the Jewish cemetery) | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Flea market, Nador utca | ||
Szelestey Laszlo utca | Szelestey Laszlo utca | |
(Sunday 6 July) Szelestey Laszlo utca | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Szelestey Laszlo utca | ||
"Haj Virag" | "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca | |
(Sunday 6 July) "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca | ||
(Sunday 6 July) "Haj Virag," (?hair flower shop), Varosmartly Miklos utca | ||
Belsikator utca | Belsikator utca (leading to Fo ter) | |
(Sunday 6 July) Belsikator utca (leading to Fo ter) | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Spar near the post office in the backyard of Fo ter | ||
A road sign | A road sign, Rakoczi Ferenc | |
(Saturday 5 July) A road sign, Rakoczi Ferenc | ||
Wagner Vendegudvar | Wagner Vendegudvar (Wagner Hotel), Kossuth Lajos utca 15 where I stayed in early july 2003. | |
(Saturday 5 July) Wagner Vendegudvar (Wagner Hotel), Kossuth Lajos utca 15 | ||
(Monday 7 July) Viewed from my room of Wagner Hotel, Kossuth Lajos u.15 | ||
Zsuzsa & Balazs | Zsuzsa Angela Lang (Berzsenyi College, secretary of the Hungarian James Joyce Society, Szombathely) and her husband Balazs Hontanus Kertesz (translator) at their home | |
(Sunday 6 July) Zsuzsa Angela Lang (Berzsenyi College, secretary of the Hungarian James Joyce Society, Szombathely) and her husband Balazs Hontanus Kertesz (translator) at their home | ||
(Sunday 6 July) Zsuzsa Angela Lang (Berzsenyi College, secretary of the Hungarian James Joyce Society, Szombathely) and her husband Balazs Hontanus Kertesz (translator) at their home | ||
(date unknown) Lilloo Raccoon (Zsuzsa's cat), who, like Bloom's cat, is likely to mew, "Mkgnao! Mrkgnao! Mrkrgnao!" when she wants milk. On 6 July, as I remember, "she sat at the window watching the evening invade the avenue" ("Eveline"). Photo presented by Zsuzsa Angela Lang |