The Spirit of the Nation
The Seoul National Cemetery

The Spirit of the Nation

The Seoul National Cemetery

5 November 2006

Foreword


  Stephen Dedalus says in "Nestor" of Ulysses, "History is a nightmare from which I am trying to awake."  However, if we can succeed to awake, Japan's wartime history between the late nineteenth century and the early twentieth century must not be forgotten by both Japanese and Koreans (and Chinese, too) to understand each other and establish a real and everlasting friendship.
  When I mention Japanese imperialism and Yasukuni-jinjya Shrine in class or other occasions, people often ask me, "What do you think of the Yasukuni issues?" and "How can we make friends with other Asian nations?"  I always answer, "Before you ask me such questions, have you ever considered them seriously?"  In fact, in Japan, high school history teachers do not tell a great deal of the former Japanese imperialism in class.  Do you know why?  It is probably because they just follow the instruction made by the Japanese government which in short can be summarized with theJapanese proverb, "Kusai mononiwa Futa wo Shiro" (Cover up stinky things with a lid).  Trying hard to understand the situation in a good way, it reflects the government's policy not to put the heavy responsibility for the war crimes to the new generations.  However, other Asian children and teenagers are continuously taught in schools what the former Japanese Empire and their soldiers did to their ancestors.  To establish a true friendship with other Asian nations, it is indispensable for us to share the same history of Asia.  What can I do for Japan to establish the true friendship with other Asian nations?  All I can do is to visit some sacred places for the victims and the soldiers in other Asian countries and introduce them in classes and in this website "Atelier Aterui."
  In March 1986, I visited the U.S. National Cemetery of the Pacific, Hawaii, known as the "Punchbowl" which is a burial ground for 35,000 victims of three American wars in Asia and the Pacific: World War II, Korea, and Vietnam.  In February 2000, I also visited An Jun-geun's martyr museum in central Seoul with my best respect.  I hope I will be able to visit more sacred places in China and other Asian nations suffered from Japanese imperialism.
  Finally I would like to express my gratitude to Professor Eun-Kyung Chun, Professor Kiljoong Kim and Professor Kiheon Nam for taking us (some Asian Joycean scholars) to the sacred National Cemetery where numerous glorious soldiers and patriots lie peacefully.  It was a very wonderful and significant experience for us.

The Seoul National Cemetery


  The Seoul National Cemetery is located in Dongjak-dong, Dongjak-gu, Seoul, Korea.  The Seoul National Cemetery is near Dongjak Station on Subway Line No. 4.  When established by presidential decree of Syngman Rhee in 1956, it was the country's only national cemetery.  An additional national cemetery was established in 1974 in Daejeon.  Both are overseen by the National Memorial Board.  The cemetery is reserved for Korean veterans, including those who died in the Korean independence movement, Korean War, and Vietnam War.  Only one non-Korean person is buried here, the Canadian doctor Francis Schofield who assisted the independence movement.
  In August 2005, controversy was stirred the visit of a North Korean delegation to the cemetery.  The delegation was led by Ki-Nam Kim, and numbered 182 officials.  The visit not only sparked outrage among those opposed to warmer relations with the North, but also raised fears that a future delegation from the South might be expected to pay their respects to Il-sung Kim in Pyongyang.
  The Seoul National Cemetery is Korea's sanctuary where the martyred patriots who sacrificed themselves for the defense and development of their country rest in peace.  It is also full of the spirit of the whole nation and patriotism which saved the nation in the great crisis.
  This national sanctuary is located on a plot of land measuring approximately 1,430,000 square meters (343 acres); and, as though shield by a huge folding screen, the area towards the rear is surrounded by the spiritual Dong Jak ridgelines, connecting to Mt. Gong Jak, forming the foothills of Mt. Gwan At. towards the front, the cemetery overlooks the silently meandering Han-gang River.
  Enshrined here are the remains of approximately 165,000 patriot martyrs and war dead, patriots who fought for the liberation of the country; men of merit who sacrificed their lives for the development of the country and the wellbeing of the people; soldiers, policemen, and reserved army who died glorious deaths to defend their country in times of emergency, including the righteous army who fought against Japan during the Daehanjeguk Period (1897-1910).  (Main Reference: the official pamphlet "The Spirit of the Nation.")

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The Spirit of the Nation
      The Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Main Gate of the Seoul National Cemetery: The nearest subway station is Dongjak Station of Subway Line No.4.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Main Gate of the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Me at the main gate of the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungseong Fountain Tower, viewed from the main gate, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Map of the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Korean Script of the Chungseong Fountain Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  This fountain tower was constructed to symbolize the great achievement and spirits of the martyred patriots who died for the freedom, peace and prosperity of the country and those who died fighting gloriously for the country.  The male and female statues holding the laurel leaves on top signify the country free and peaceful; the center part symbolizes the people, while the lower part symbolizes the armed forces, police, and reservisits, devoted to the protection of the nation and its people.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungseong Fountain Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungseong Fountain Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) The flower clock with the Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun) in the background, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) The flower clock with the Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun) in the background , the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery.
  The memorial gate was constructed after the models of Sadang Shrine and Geuknak Shrine built at the end of the Boryeo Dynasty (A.D. 918-1392) and the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) respectively, and the statues of sitting tiger at both sides symbolize the people's wish to protect the souls of the country's patriot martyrs and war dead.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Registration at the Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Memorial Tower (Hyeonchungtap) and Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, viewed from the Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery.
  The monument which symbolizes the National Cemetery, the National Sanctuary, was constructed to adore the outstanding loyalty and spirit of heroism displayed by the patriots and soldiers who died heroic deaths for their country and people.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Place of burning incense in front of the Memorial Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Floral tribute for the dead at the Memorial Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Guardian statues of Soldiers on the right, the Memorial Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Guardian statues of Soldiers on the left, the Memorial Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Inside of the Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined within the tower are the memorial tablets of some 104,000 soldiers who died but whose bodies were never found, together with the remains of some 7,000 unknown soldiers whose bodies were found during the Korean War.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Memorial Tower (Hyeonchungtap) and Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, viewed from the Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery.
  The monument which symbolizes the National Cemetery, the National Sanctuary, was constructed to adore the outstanding loyalty and spirit of heroism displayed by the patriots and soldiers who died heroic deaths for their country and people.
jpeg
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 (Sunday 5 November) Memorial Tower (Hyeonchungtap) and Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, viewed from the Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery.
  The monument which symbolizes the National Cemetery, the National Sanctuary, was constructed to adore the outstanding loyalty and spirit of heroism displayed by the patriots and soldiers who died heroic deaths for their country and people.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Me at Memorial Tower (Hyeonchungtap) and Memorial Tablet Enshrinement Hall, viewed from the Memorial Gate (Hyeonchungmun), the Seoul National Cemetery.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plot No. 14, just behind of the Memorial Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
  This is one of the 56 plots for soldiers who died on the battlefield.  Enshrined here are the remains of more than 54,000 martyred patriots including soldiers lower than a colonel, reserved army, student volunteer soldiers, civilian employees attached to the military, and policemen who died during the Korean War, counter espionage operations, and Vietnam War.
  Among those buried in these plots are the 10 fighters who made a suicidal attack to recapture the Songaksan high ground, Major Gang Jae-gu who sacrificed his life to rescue his men from the explosion of a hand grenade, Marine Master Sergeant Yang Byeong-su who first posted the Korean national flag on Capital Hall after reclamation of Seoul followed by Incheon Landing Operation, Police Lieutenant Gye Yong-hun who caught a spy alive and died in action, Baek Gwang-nam pressman of Dongailbo who died in action during the Vietnam War, and railroad engineer Kim Jae-hyeon who died in the military action during the Korean War.
  (Quoted from the Official pamphlet "The Spirit of the Nation.")
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plot No. 14, just behind of the Memorial Tower, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plot No. 2, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plot No. 2, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plot No. 6, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plot No. 6 (with the Memorial Tower in the background), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plot No. 15, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Stone steps to Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery.
  Enshrined here are the remains of some 200 patriots who sacrificed their lives in the cause of national independence including 13 national leaders of the March 1st Movement (1919: against the Japanese colonial government) loyal troops of the late Joseon Dynasty.  Also buried here is Dr. Francis Schofield (Canadian) who, even though a foreigner, assisted the independence movement.
  The remains of Key Shanghai Provisional Government Officials were enshrined separately in a specially reserved area at the upper portion of this plot.
  This is the place Japanese people should visit there to pray for the souls of the Koreans who fought against the former Japanese Empire.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae (Burial Plot for Patriots and Key Provisional Government Officials), the Seoul National Cemetery.
  The memories of some 130 patriot martyrs, whose remains could not be found, and of those who died without descendants, are enshrined here in the form of memorial tablets.  Among those enshrined here are Patriot Yu Gwan Sun, two national leaders who played a leading role in th eMarch 1st movement, Patriots Lee Wi Jong and Lee Sang Seol who took King Go Jong's own handwritten proposals to the International Peace Conference held in Gague, and Generals Hong Beom Do and Oh Dong Jin who fought against the Japanese in Manchuria.  (Quoted from the official pamphlet "The Spirit of the Nation.")
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery.
  This information board "Chungyeoldae Altar" says:
  
  This alter was erected to the memory of those who laid down their lives for the country in the Righteous Army or as independence fighters in Shanghai, Manchuria, the Maritime Province of Siberia, as well as in Korea to liberate the country from Japanese rule, and to the memory of the noble sacrifices of patriots who are only known by their name tablets in the Muhuseonyoljedan because their remains were never found and they have no descendants.
  We should never forget that we are indebted to these patriots, who sacrificed themselves for the sovereignty of our nation and the freedom and peace we enjoy today.
  Let us revere the patriots and independence fighters who rest here for eternity with all our hearts.
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Kyoko Miyata, Tamagawa University, Japan (left), Xiangyu Liu, Beijing Normal University, China (middle) and me (right), the Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Xiangyu Liu, Beijing Normal University, China (left) and me (right), the Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Korean inscription of Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Kiheon Nam, Seoul National University of Technology (left), Kiljoong Kim, Seoul National University (middle) and Xiangyu Liu, Beijing Normal University, China (right), the Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Plots for soldiers, viewed from the Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery
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 (Sunday 5 November) Memorial Tower (Hyeonchungtap), viewed from the Altar to Heirless Patriots, Chungyeoldae, the Seoul National Cemetery




        


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