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[U 04, 17 & 18] Eccles St. [U 04 & U 17] St George's Church [U 06.0249] Statue of Daniel O'Connell [U 08] Davy Byrne's "Moral Pub," 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2 Flags of "Bloomsday June 16th" General Post Office (GPO) [D LC] Ha'penny Bridge [D BH] Waverley House (B&B), 4 Hardwicke Street [FW] 70 Merrion Square (Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu) St. Patrick's Cathedral Joycean Nighttown The James Joyce Centre Statue of James Joyce, Earl Street North Bust of James Joyce, St. Stephen's Green The Gate Theatre Dublin Writers Museum |
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*According to the census in Britannica 11th ed.(1911), the population
of Dublin was 290,638 (1901), Venice was 169, 563 (1881). Dublin was not
the second city of the British Empire in Joyce's time: the population of
Greater London was 6,581,402 (1901), Liverpool 684,958(1901) [753,203(1908
estimated) ], Manchester 606,824 (1901), Birmingham 522,204 (1901) and
Edinburgh 316,479 (1901). So I presume that Dublin was actually the sixth
city of the Empire.
Cf. also James Joyce A to Z.
*If you like to take a Ulysses tour in Dublin, I recommend you to consult Robert Nicholson's The "Ulysses" Guide: Tours Through Joyce's Dublin (Dublin: New Island, 1988/2002).
IMAGE |
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Eccles St. |
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[U 04, 17 & 18] The street was named after the family that included Ambrose Eccles (d. 1809), a distinguished Irish editor of and commentator on Shakespeare's plays. The Annual Register for 1810 memorialized him as "a profound scholar, a perfect gentleman, an ornament to society" (Don Gifford, "Ulysses" Annotated, p.70). |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] The southern edge of Eccles Street | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] The southern edge of Eccles Street | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] Mater Misericordiae University Hospital | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] 7 Eccles Street (now Mater Misericordiae University Hospital): the plaque of James Joyce's Ulysses | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] The opposite side of 7 Eccles Street, which still has the similar structured apartments | |
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(Saturday 21 July) "Bloom House," 76 Eccles Street; the opposite side of 7 Eccles Street | |
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St. George's Church |
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[U 04 & U 17] St George's Church (Church of Ireland, Protestant), Hardwicke Place, near Hardwicke Street and just east of the southerneastern end of Eccles Street, in the northeast quadrant of Dublin (Don Gifford, "Ulysses" Annotated, p.71).
St George's Church was built in 1802 (now the Temple Theatre): designed by the famous architect Francis Johnston (1760-1829) who also designed the chapel in Dublin Castle, the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham, the GPO and Nelson's Pillar, and St Peter's Church in Drogheda. |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04 & U 17] St George's Church, Hardwicke Place, viewed from Great Denmark Street | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04 & U 17] St George's Church, Hardwicke Place, viewed from Great Denmark Street | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 04 & U 17] St George's Church, Hardwicke Place, viewed from Eccles Street | |
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[U 06.0249] Statue of Daniel O'Connell and O'Connell Street Lower | |
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(Saturday 14 July) [U 06.0249] Statue of Daniel O'Connell and O'Connell Street Lower | |
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Davy Byrne's |
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[U 08] Davy Byrne's "Moral Pub," 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2 |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2 | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2 | |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Hoon-Sung Hwang, Dongguk University, Korea (left), Marissa Aixas, UAB, Spain (middle) and Moon Young Chung, Keimyung University, Korea (right) |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Marissa Aixas, UAB, Spain (left), Moon Young Chung, Keimyung University, Korea (middle) and me (right). Photo by Hoon-Sung Hwang, Dongguk University, Korea |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Youngmin Kim, Dongguk University Seoul, Korea (left 1), Marissa Aixas, UAB, Spain (left 2), Moon Young Chung, Keimyung University, Korea (right 2) and Paul O'Hanrahan, an Irish Joycean actor (right 1) |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Paul O'Hanrahan, an Irish Joycean actor (left) and Youngmin Kim, Dongguk University Seoul, Korea (right) |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Youngmin Kim, Dongguk University Seoul, Korea (left) and Paul O'Hanrahan, an Irish Joycean actor (right) |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Paul O'Hanrahan, an Irish Joycean actor (left) and me (right) |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Leopold Bloom's lunch: a glass of Burgundy and a Gorgonzola cheese sandwich (with a pint of "Shandygaff" [U 8.736]): 8.732. He entered Davy Byrne's. Moral pub. He doesn't chat. Stands a 8.733. drink now and then. But in leapyear once in four. Cashed a cheque for me 8.734. once. 8.735. What will I take now? He drew his watch. Let me see now. 8.736. Shandygaff? 8.737. --Hello, Bloom, Nosey Flynn said from his nook. 8.738. --Hello, Flynn. 8.739. --How's things? 8.740. --Tiptop ... Let me see. I'll take a glass of burgundy and ... let me see. 8.741. Sardines on the shelves. Almost taste them by looking. Sandwich? 8.742. Ham and his descendants musterred and bred there. Potted meats. What is 8.743. home without Plumtree's potted meat? Incomplete. What a stupid ad! 8.744. Under the obituary notices they stuck it. All up a plumtree. Dignam's 8.745. potted meat. Cannibals would with lemon and rice. White missionary too 8.746. salty. Like pickled pork. Expect the chief consumes the parts of honour. 8.747. Ought to be tough from exercise. His wives in a row to watch the effect. 8.748. There was a right royal old nigger. Who ate or something the somethings of 8.749. the reverend Mr MacTrigger. With it an abode of bliss. Lord knows what 8.750. concoction. Cauls mouldy tripes windpipes faked and minced up. Puzzle 8.751. find the meat. Kosher. No meat and milk together. Hygiene that was what 8.752. they call now. Yom Kippur fast spring cleaning of inside. Peace and war 8.753. depend on some fellow's digestion. Religions. Christmas turkeys and geese. 8.754. Slaughter of innocents. Eat drink and be merry. Then casual wards full 8.755. after. Heads bandaged. Cheese digests all but itself. Mity cheese. 8.756. --Have you a cheese sandwich? 8.757. --Yes, sir. 8.758. Like a few olives too if they had them. Italian I prefer. Good glass of 8.759. burgundy take away that. Lubricate. A nice salad, cool as a cucumber, Tom 8.760. Kernan can dress. Puts gusto into it. Pure olive oil. Milly served me that 8.761. cutlet with a sprig of parsley. Take one Spanish onion. God made food, the 8.762. devil the cooks. Devilled crab. 8.763. --Wife well? 8.764. --Quite well, thanks .... A cheese sandwich, then. Gorgonzola, have you? 8.765. --Yes, sir. |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Irish Oyster In Ulysses, John Henry Menton has "oyster eyes" (U 6.1031, 8.322, 10.1230). It is noted that both Bloom and Molly knew that oysters has sexual effect and thought that Blazes Boylan ate oysters at Burton Bindon's Red Bank Restaurant at 19-20 D'Olier Street, outside of which Bloom saw Blazes Boylan from a funeral coach in the morning (U 6.196-99). According to Don Gifford's "Ulysses" Annotated (1988): "The combination of champagne and oysters was supposed to be an aphrodisiac. Oysters from the red-bank beds in County Clare on the west coast of Ireland were advertised in Dublin as the best of Irish oysters by Burton Bindon's restaurant at 19-20 D'Olier Street, outside of which Bloom saw Boylan earlier in the day (U 6.196-99)" (Gifford 181). 8.860. Johnny Magories. Roundness you think good. Gaudy colour warns you 8.861. off. One fellow told another and so on. Try it on the dog first. Led on by the 8.862. smell or the look. Tempting fruit. Ice cones. Cream. Instinct. Orangegroves 8.863. for instance. Need artificial irrigation. Bleibtreustrasse. Yes but what about 8.864. oysters. Unsightly like a clot of phlegm. Filthy shells. Devil to open them 8.865. too. Who found them out? Garbage, sewage they feed on. Fizz and Red 8.866. bank oysters. Effect on the sexual. Aphrodis. He was in the Red Bank this 8.867. morning. Was he oysters old fish at table perhaps he young flesh in bed no 8.868. June has no ar no oysters. But there are people like things high. Tainted 8.869. game. Jugged hare. First catch your hare. Chinese eating eggs fifty years 8.870. old, blue and green again. Dinner of thirty courses. Each dish harmless 8.871. might mix inside. Idea for a poison mystery. That archduke Leopold was it 8.872. no yes or was it Otto one of those Habsburgs? Or who was it used to eat 8.873. the scruff off his own head? Cheapest lunch in town. Of course aristocrats, 8.874. then the others copy to be in the fashion. Milly too rock oil and flour. Raw 8.875. pastry I like myself. Half the catch of oysters they throw back in the sea to 8.876. keep up the price. Cheap no-one would buy. Caviare. Do the grand. Hock 8.877. in green glasses. Swell blowout. Lady this. Powdered bosom pearls. The 8.878. elite. Creme de la creme. They want special dishes to pretend they're. The citizen also ate at least one Redbank oyster that day: 12.1432. The citizen said nothing only cleared the spit out of his gullet and, 12.1433. gob, he spat a Red bank oyster out of him right in the corner. Even Bloom has a healing power after eating twelve dozen oysters (shell included) in the hallucination: 15.1841. (Bloom walks on a net, covers his left eye with his left ear, passes 15.1842. through several walls, climbs Nelson's Pillar, hangs from the top 15.1843. ledge by his eyelids, eats twelve dozen oysters (shells included), 15.1844. heals several sufferers from king's evil, contracts his face so as to 15.1845. resemble many historical personages, Lord Beaconsfield, Lord 15.1846. Byron, Wat Tyler, Moses of Egypt, Moses Maimonides, Moses 15.1847. Mendelssohn, Henry Irving, Rip van Winkle, Kossuth, Jean Jacques 15.1848. Rousseau, Baron Leopold Rothschild, Robinson Crusoe, Sherlock 15.1849. Holmes, Pasteur, turns each foot simultaneously in different 15.1850. directions, bids the tide turn back, eclipses the sun by extending his 15.1851. little finger.) Virag mentions the effect of Redbank oysters (U 15.2431-2442). Finally Molly's guess after the affair with Boylan: 18.143. have one yes when I lit the lamp because he must have come 3 or 4 times 18.144. with that tremendous big red brute of a thing he has I thought the vein or 18.145. whatever the dickens they call it was going to burst though his nose is not 18.146. so big after I took off all my things with the blinds down after my hours 18.147. dressing and perfuming and combing it like iron or some kind of a thick 18.148. crowbar standing all the time he must have eaten oysters I think a few 18.149. dozen he was in great singing voice no I never in all my life felt anyone had 18.150. one the size of that to make you feel full up he must have eaten a whole |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Irish Oyster |
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(Wednesday 18 July) [U 08] Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2.
Our evening meals: sermon salad, oysters, Irish soda bread and Guinness! |
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Flags of "Bloomsday June 16th" |
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Flags of "Bloomsday June 16th" with a different photo of James Joyce, O'Connell Street Lower |
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(Saturday 14 July) Flags of "Bloomsday June 16th" with a different photo of James Joyce, O'Connell Street Lower | |
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(Sunday 15 July) Flags of "Bloomsday June 16th" with a different photo of James Joyce, O'Connell Street Lower | |
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(Sunday 15 July) Flags of "Bloomsday June 16th" with GPO on the left, O'Connell Street Lower | |
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General Post Office |
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General Post Office (GPO), O'Connell Street Lower |
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(Sunday 15 July) General Post Office (GPO), O'Connell Street Lower | |
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Ha'penny Bridge |
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[D LC] Ha'penny Bridge over River Liffey, viewed from O'Connell Bridge |
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(Sunday 15 July) [D LC] Ha'penny Bridge over River Liffey, viewed from O'Connell Bridge | |
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Great Denmark St. |
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[D "The Boarding House"] Great Denmark Street was formerly called Hardwicke Street. |
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(Saturday 21 July) [D BH] Waverley House (B&B), 4 Hardwicke Street at the intersection of Frederick Court (setting for "The Boarding House") | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [D BH] Waverley House (B&B), 4 Hardwicke Street at the intersection of Frederick Court (setting for "The Boarding House") | |
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70 Merrion Square |
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[FW] 70 Merrion Square, a home of Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu (author of The House by the Churchyard [1863],1814-1873): now the office of The Arts Council.
The plaque by Dublin and East Tourism. There remains many old houses of celebrities: go to the Dublin and Joyce V-6: miscellanea (2004) page |
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(Friday 27 July) [FW] 70 Merrion Square, a home of Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu (author of The House by the Churchyard [1863],1814-1873): now the office of The Arts Council.
The plaque by Dublin and East Tourism. |
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(Friday 27 July) [FW] 70 Merrion Square, a home of Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu (1814-1873): now the office of The Arts Council. | |
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(Friday 27 July) [FW] 70 Merrion Square, a home of Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu (1814-1873): now the office of The Arts Council. | |
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St. Patrick's Cathedral |
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St. Patrick is said to have baptized converts to Christianity at a well that once existed in the park alongside the cathedral. Because of this association with St. Patrick, a church has stood here since the 5th century. The Normans built a church in stone on this site in 1191. This was rebuilt in the early 13th century and is the building we see today. Archbishop Minot rebuilt the west tower in 1370 after a fire and the spire was added in 1749.
St. Patrick's Cathedral has contributed much to Irish life throughout its long history. Jonathan Swift (1667-1745) was Dean from 1713 - 1745. Handel's Messiah received its first performance in Dublin in 1742 sung by the combined choirs of St. Patrick's and Christ Church Cathedrals. Living Stones, the cathedral's permanent exhibition, celebrates St. Patrick's place in the life of the city, its history and its role in a fast changing world. It emphasizes that the cathedral is not a museum but a building embracing the past to herald the future. Go to: the official site of The National Cathedral and Collegiate Church of Saint Patrick, Dublin or "St. Patrick's Cathedral." This Anglican church is located in Patrick Close, Dublin 8. |
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(Sunday 22 July) St. Patrick's Cathedral, Patrick Close, Dublin 8 | |
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(Sunday 22 July) St. Patrick's Cathedral, Patrick Close, Dublin 8 | |
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(Thursday 26 July) St. Patrick's Cathedral, Patrick Close, Dublin 8 | |
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(Thursday 26 July) St. Patrick's Cathedral, Patrick Close, Dublin 8 | |
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Joycean Nighttown |
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(Saturday 21 July) River Liffey, viewed from O'Connell Bridge | |
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(Saturday 21 July) [D LC] Ha'penny Bridge over River Liffey, viewed from O'Connell Bridge | |
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(Saturday 21 July) O'Connell Street Lower, viewed from O'Connell Bridge | |
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(Saturday 21 July) Bank of Ireland, Dame Street | |
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The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George St. Dublin 1 | |
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(Saturday 14 July) The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George St. Dublin 1 | |
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(Saturday 14 July) The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George St. Dublin 1 | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Portrait of young James Joyce. Courtesy of The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's Street | |
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(Saturday 14 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] The Door of 7 Eccles Street, The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. It is on- extended loan by Marks & Spencer. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] The Door of 7 Eccles Street, The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. It is on- extended loan by Marks & Spencer. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) [U 04, 17 & 18] The Door of 7 Eccles Street, The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. It is on- extended loan by Marks & Spencer. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Joycean Cow by David Newton (2003), The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Joycean Cow by David Newton (2003), The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Mural paintings describing each episode of Ulysses, The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Mural paintings describing each episode of Ulysses, The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Mural paintings describing each episode of Ulysses, The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Mural paintings describing each episode of Ulysses, The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George's St. Courtesy of James Joyce Centre. | |
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Statue of James Joyce, Earl Street North | |
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(Saturday 14 July) Statue of James Joyce, Earl Street North | |
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Bust of James Joyce |
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Bust of James Joyce, St. Stephen's Green South. |
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(Monday 16 July) Bust of James Joyce, St. Stephen's Green South | |
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(Monday 16 July) Bust of James Joyce, St. Stephen's Green South | |
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Gate Theatre |
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The Gate Theatre, 1 Cavandish Row, Dublin 1 |
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(Saturday 21 July) The Gate Theatre, 1 Cavandish Row, Dublin 1 | |
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(Saturday 21 July) The Gate Theatre, 1 Cavandish Row, Dublin 1:
Noel Coward's comedy Private Lives is on the run! (I saw it on 21 July, 2007.) Not bad. |
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Dublin Writers Museum |
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Door of Dublin Writers Museum, 18 Parnell Sq. North, Dublin 1. |
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(Saturday 14 July) Door of Dublin Writers Museum, 18 Parnell Sq. North, Dublin 1 | |