JOYCEAN PICS 2000
Trieste and Joyce
Contents of This Page

  
  Piazza Ponterosso 3
  Via San Nicolo 30
  Via Donato Bramante 4
  Via Armando Diaz 2
  Museo Veviano via di Cavana
  Giuseppe Verdi Opera House
  (Old) Stock Exchange
  (New) Stock Exchange
  S. Nicolo dei Greci
  Caffe Stella Polare
  Nicolo Vidacovich's
  "Central" (Haberleitner) Hotel
  "Metro Cubo" brothel
  City Library
  Amalia Popper's house
  Tullio Silvestri's studi
  ?Basilica di San Giusto
  Civica scuola popolare e cittadina
  Piazza G. Vico 6
  Butcher's, via Donato Bramante
  Bust of James Joyc
  Grand Canal
  "Americano" cinema
CONTENTS 2000
   1  London IJJF Symposium
   2  London and Joyce
   3  London: miscellanea
   4  4th Annual Trieste Joyce School
   5  Trieste and Joyce
   6  Trieste: miscellanea
   7  The James Joyce Annual Summer School
   8  Dublin and Joyce
   9  Dublin: miscellanea
  10  Clongowes Wood College
  11  Galway
  12  Inis Mor, the Aran Islands
  13  Sligo and Yeats

Trieste and Joyce

A Pilgrimage to Joycean Trieste

  
    Trieste is a port city at the head of the Adriatic Sea.  It was part of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire when Joyce first arrived there in 1905, but its citizens had strong ties to Italy, to which the city was ceded after World War I.  Trieste is now located on the Italian side of the border with Slovenia.  From 1905 until 1915 Joyce and his family resided in Trieste (with a brief hiatus in 1907, when they moved to Rome), where he earned a living as an English language teacher.  The Joyces returned to Trieste after World War I, but they stayed only briefly (1919-1920) before moving to Paris.  
  Joyce wrote most of Dubliners, some of the half-finished 914-page work Stephen Hero, all of A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man and some episodes of Ulysses while living in Trieste.  However, Joyce's most famous Triestine writing is Giacomo Joyce.

The Chronology of James Joyce's Trieste Addresses
March 1905
piazza Ponterosso 3, 3rd floor
1 May 1905 - 24 February 1906
via San Nicolo 30, 2nd floor
24 February - 30 July 1906
via Giovanni Boccaccio 1, 2nd floor
March - November 1907
via San Nicolo 32, c/o Stanislaus Joyce, 3rd floor
1 December - early March 1909
via Santa Caterina 1, 1st floor
6 March 1909 - 24 August 1910
via Vincenzo Scussa 8, 1st floor
Late August 1910 - early September 1912
via Alfredo Oriani 2, 3rd floor
September 1912 - 28 June 1915
via Donato Bramante 4, 2nd floor
Mid-October 1919 - early June 1920
via Armando Diaz 2, 3rd floor

  
  Reference: Renzo S. Crivelli.  James Joyce: Itinerari Triestini/Triestine Itineraries.  Trieste: MSG Press, 1996.




 

  There are some allusions to Trieste in Joyce's works:

The lady goes apace, apace, apace ..... Pure air on the upland road.  Trieste is waking rawly: raw sunlight over its huddled browntiled roofs, testudoform; a multitude of prostrate bugs await a national deliverance.  Belluomo rises from the bed of his wife's lover's wife: the busy housewife is astir, sloe-eyed, a saucer of acetic acid in her hand ..... Pure air and silence on the upland road: and hoofs.  A girl on horseback. Hedda! Hedda Gabler!  (Giacomo Joyce)

I expound Shakespeare to docile Trieste: Hamlet, quoth I, who is most courteous to gentle and simple is rude only to Polonius.  Perhaps, an embittered idealist, he can see in the parents of his beloved only grotesque attempts on the part of nature to produce her image ........... Marked you that?  (Giacomo Joyce)


16.0576.  And I seen a man killed in Trieste by an Italian chap. Knife in his back.
16.0577.  Knife like that.  (Ulysses)
  
  
  (*As for those of Finngans Wake, refer to the Trieste: miscellanea page.)

IMAGE
IMAGE NO.
DATA
Piazza Ponterosso 3
  
  The 3rd floor of Piazza Ponterosso 3, where Joyce lived in March 1905.
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(Tuesday 4 July) The 3rd floor of Piazza Ponterosso 3, where Joyce lived in March 1905.
  
  
  
Via San Nicolo 30
  
  Joyce once lived between 1 May 1905 - 24 February 1906 (2nd floor).  Via San Nicolo 30.
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(Tuesday 4 July) Libreria Antiquaria "Umberto Saba."  The same building where Joyce once lived between 1 May 1905 - 24 February 1906 (2nd floor).  Via San Nicolo 30.
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(Tuesday 4 July) "Umberto Saba," via San Nicolo 30
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(Tuesday 4 July) Via San Nicolo 30
  
  
  
Via Donato Bramante 4
  
  The 2nd floor of Via Donato Bramante 4, where Joyce lived between September 1912-28 June 1915: the plaque indicates the James Joyce Steps next to the building.
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(Wednesday 5 July) The 2nd floor of Via Donato Bramante 4, where Joyce lived between September 1912-28 June 1915: the plaque indicates the James Joyce Steps next to the building.
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(Wednesday 5 July) James Joyce Steps, V.S. Giacomo in Monte: a wider view of trs2000-260.
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(Wednesday 5 July) Via Donato Bramante 4
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(Wednesday 5 July) James Joyce Steps
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(Wednesday 5 July) Via Ristoria etc.: a scene from the James Joyce Steps
  
  
  
Via Armando Diaz 2
  
  The 3rd floor of Via Armando Diaz 2, where Joyce lived mid -October 1919 - early July 1920.
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(Wednesday 5 July) The 3rd floor of Via Armando Diaz 2, where Joyce lived mid -October 1919 - early July 1920.
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(Friday 7 July) Via Armando Diaz 2.  See trs2000-250.
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(Friday 7 July) Via Armando Diaz 2.  See trs2000-250.
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(Friday 7 July) Via Armando Diaz 2.  See trs2000-250.
  
  
  
Museo Veviano via di Cavana
  
Museo Veviano via di Cavana.  Portrait of the Triestine novelist Italo Svevo (Ettore Schmitz, 1861-1928): Una Vita (One Life, 1892), Senilita (As a Man Grows Older / Emilio's Carnival, 1898), La Coscienza di Zeno (Confessions of Zeno / Zeno's Conscience, 1923), etc.  Thanks to the introduction and recommendation by Joyce and Eugenio Montale, Svevo's works were translated in various European languages and gained a great fame throughout Europe in the early twentiefth century.
  Svevo is also known as a model of Leopold Bloom and his wife Livia is known as a model of Anna Livia Plurabelle.
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(Tuesday 4 July) Museo Veviano via di Cavana.  Portrait of the Triestine novelist Italo Svevo (Ettore Schmitz, 1861-1928): Una Vita (One Life, 1892), Senilita (As a Man Grows Older / Emilio's Carnival, 1898), La Coscienza di Zeno (Confessions of Zeno / Zeno's Conscience, 1923), etc.  Thanks to the introduction and recommendation by Joyce and Eugenio Montale, Svevo's works were translated in various European languages and gained a great fame throughout Europe in the early twentiefth century.
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(Tuesday 4 July) Ad. of Ulisse, Italia Nostrra.  Near Piazza Cavana (Joycean nighttown).
  
  
  
"Giuseppe Verdi" Opera House
  
  
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(Tuesday 4 July) The Giuseppe Verdi Opera House, piazza Verdi
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(Friday 7 July) The Giuseppe Verdi Opera House, piazza Verdi.  See trs2000-220.
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(Friday 7 July) The Giuseppe Verdi Opera House, piazza Verdi.  See trs2000-220 & 315.
  
  
  
(Old) Stock Exchange
  
  
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(Tuesday 4 July) The Hall of the (old) Stock Exchange, piazza della Borsa 17
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(Friday 7 July) The Hall of the (old) Stock Exchange, piazza della Borsa 17.  See trs2000-221.
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(Friday 7 July) The Hall of the (old) Stock Exchange, piazza della Borsa 17.  See trs2000-221 & 311.
  
  
  
(New) Stock Exchange
  
  
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(Tuesday 4 July) The new Stock Exchange (Borsa) which used to be the "Dreher" restaurant.
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(Friday 7 July) The new Stock Exchange (the "Dreher" restaurant).  See trs2000-244.
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(Friday 7 July) The new Stock Exchange (the "Dreher" restaurant).  See trs2000-244 & 310.
  
  
  
S. Nicolo dei Greci
  
  S. Nicolo dei Greci (Greek-Orthodox Church of S. Nicolo), Riva Tre Novembre where Joyce used to go.
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(Tuesday 4 July) S. Nicolo dei Greci or the Greek-Orthodox Church of S. Nicolo, Riva Tre Novembre
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(Tuesday 4 July) The interior of S. Nicolo dei Greci or the Greek-Orthodox Church of S. Nicolo
  
  
  
Caffe Stella Polare
  
  Caffe "Stella Polare," via Dante Alighieri 14: Joyce's favorite restaurant.
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(Tuesday 4 July) Caffe "Stella Polare," via Dante Alighieri 14
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(Tuesday 4 July) Caffe "Stella Polare"
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(Tuesday 4 July)The interior of Caffe "Stella Polare"
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(Tuesday 4 July) The interior of Caffe "Stella Polare"
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(Friday 7 July) Caffe "Stella Polare."  See trs2000-236.
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(Friday 7 July) Caffe "Stella Polare."  See trs2000-236.
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(Friday 7 July) The Church of Saint Antonio, piazza Antonio nuovo (near "Stella Polare")
  
  
  
Nicolo Vidacovich's
  
  Nicolo Vidacovich's house, via Rossini 14
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(Tuesday 4 July) Nicolo Vidacovich's house, via Rossini 14
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(Friday 7 July) Nicolo Vidacovich's house, via Rossini 14
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(Friday 7 July) Nicolo Vidacovich's house, via Rossini 14
  
  
  
"Central" (Haberleitner) Hotel
  
  The "Central" (Haberleitner) Hotel, via San Nicolo 15
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(Tuesday 4 July) The "Central" (Haberleitner) Hotel, via San Nicolo 15
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(Friday 7 July) The "Central" (Haberleitner) Hotel, via San Nicolo 15.  See trs2000-242.
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(Friday 7 July) The "Central" (Haberleitner) Hotel, via San Nicolo 15.  See trs2000-242 & 302.
  
  
  
"Metro Cubo" brothel
  
  The "Metro Cubo" brothel, via della Pescheria 7 (near Joyce's apartment at via Armando Diaz 2 where he stayed between 1919 and 1920).
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(Wednesday 5 July) The "Metro Cubo" brothel, via della Pescheria 7
  
  
  
City Library
  
  The City Library, piazza Hortis 4.
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(Wednesday 5 July) The City Library, piazza Hortis 4
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(Wednesday 5 July) The City Library, piazza Hortis 4
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(Friday 7 July) The City Library, piazza Hortis 4.  See trs2000-251.
  
  
  
Amalia Popper's
  
  Amalia Popper's house, via Alice 16 (now via Don Minzoni 16).  See Giacomo Joyce.
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(Wednesday 5 July) Amalia Popper's house, via Alice 16 (now via Don Minzoni 16).  See Giacomo Joyce.
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(Wednesday 5 July) Amalia Popper's house, via Alice 16 (now via Don Minzoni 16).  See Giacomo Joyce.
  
  
  
Tullio Silvestri's studio
  
  Tullio Silvestri's studio, via Tor San Lorenzo 4
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(Wednesday 5 July) Tullio Silvestri's studio, via Tor San Lorenzo 4
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(Wednesday 5 July) Tullio Silvestri's studio, via Tor San Lorenzo 4
  
  
  
?Basilica di San Giusto
  
  ?Basilica di San Giusto, via San Susto
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(Wednesday 5 July) ?Basilica di San Giusto, via San Susto
  
  
  
Civica scuola popolare e cittadina
  
  The "Civica scuola popolare e cittadina," via Veronese 1
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(Wednesday 5 July) The "Civica scuola popolare e cittadina," via Veronese 1
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(Wednesday 5 July) The "Civica scuola popolare e cittadina," via Veronese 1
  
  
  
Piazza G. Vico 6
  
  Piazza G. Vico 6.  "Via Bramante rises gently from piazza Vico towards via San Guisto, which leads up to the Castle and the Cathedral" (Renzo S. Crivelli 132).
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(Wednesday 5 July) Piazza G. Vico 6.  "Via Bramante rises gently from piazza Vico towards via San Guisto, which leads up to the Castle and the Cathedral" (Renzo S. Crivelli 132).
  
  
  
Butcher's, via Donato Bramante
  
  Butcher's, via Donato Bramante (which reminds me of "Calypso").
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(Wednesday 5 July) Butcher's, via Donato Bramante (which reminds me of "Calypso").
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(Wednesday 5 July) Via Donato Bramante 4
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(Wednesday 5 July) Via Donato Bramante 4
  
  
  
Bust of James Joyce
  
  The bust of James Joyce in the Public Gardens, via Guilia
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(Thursday 6 July) The bust of James Joyce in the Public Gardens, via Guilia
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(Thursday 6 July) The bust of James Joyce in the Public Gardens, via Guilia
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(Thursday 6 July) The bust of James Joyce in the Public Gardens, via Guilia
  
  
  
Grand Canal
  
  Around the Grand Canal
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(Friday 7 July) The Church of Saiint Antonio and the Grand Canal
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(Friday 7 July) The Grand Canal, northside towards the sea
  
  
  
"Americano" cinema
  
  The "Americano" cinema, piazza della Borsa 12
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(Friday 7 July) The "Americano" cinema, piazza della Borsa 12
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(Friday 7 July) The "Americano" cinema, piazza della Borsa 12



        


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